Push rod adjustment

Top End (cylinders pushrods etc.)
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StueyC
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Push rod adjustment

#1

Post by StueyC »

Hi all, I'm about to re-fit the push rods to my shovel and I want to confirm the installation procedure. My manual says to adjust the pushrods out until the hydraulic lifters are fully compressed and then back off the adjustment 1-1/2 turns. The problem I have is I'm not sure when the lifter has bottomed out and whether I'm actually opening the valve by adjusting th pushrod out further. The installation instructions for Panhead pushrods it to adjust until you can freely rotate the rod with you fingers and then adjust the pushrod out another 4 full turns.

Can I use the Panhead procedure on my Shovel? It seem a lot easier.

Thanks.
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Re: Push rod adjustment

#2

Post by Bosheff »

Hypothetically, doing it either way should give the same desired results. I think the reason people use the second method is for the same reason you are stating. Adjustment is the same for pans or shovels....bosheff
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Re: Push rod adjustment

#3

Post by panz4ever »

If the lifters have been run and have oil in them...with the lifter at it's lowest position on a cold engine, loosen the pushrod 'til ya' have a ton of slop...then adjust the pushrod down JUST UNTIL THE IS NO UP/DOWN PLAY. Then, from that point adjust the pushrod down four more full turns and lock it in place. At that point, the pushrod should be too tight to turn...wait 5 - 15 minutes for the lifter to bleed down and you can spin the pushrod...then turn the engine over to lower and adjust the next one...etc, etc. This is called the "wet" method and applies to any stock hydraulics that have been run and have oil in them.

If they are brand new or freshly cleaned of all oil, it's a little different. For that, you use the "dry" method. This ONLY applies to brand new or fully cleaned lifters. Again...on a cold engine....set the tappet at the lowest position when you're adjusting it. Adjust the pushrod and keep adjusting just until the lifter fully bottoms out...then BACK OFF the pushrod adjuster (shorten the pushrod) 1 3/4 turns and lock it down.
StueyC
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Re: Push rod adjustment

#4

Post by StueyC »

Thanks Bosheff. I shall follow your advise.

StueyC
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Re: Push rod adjustment

#5

Post by StueyC »

Thanks for the advise panz4ever. How do you know when using the wet method whether the lifter is compressing or the valve is opening i.e. what indicates the lifter has bottomed out?

My lifters are wet and I tried bottoming out one but couldn't determine when bottomed. Can i assume now that I have compressed one that it will not leak down anymore after I adjust it if I use the dry method?

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Re: Push rod adjustment

#6

Post by StueyC »

Another question- I adjusted the pushrods out 4 turns and left them to bleed down but still couldn't turn them by hand. How long do they need to be left for the bleed down?

StueyC
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Re: Push rod adjustment

#7

Post by panz4ever »

The pushrod you are adjusting should be on the heel of the cam (in its lowest position); the equal opposite pushrod will be at the high point (exhaust front/exhaust rear; intake front/intake rear). I have never had to wait longer than 5 minutes. You sure about the position of the pushrod your are adjusting?

And probably a dumb question but are you sure you have hydraulics and not solids. Only other think I can think is that your pushrods are not stock/nos. There are some aftermarket ones that have a different TPI which would affect the number of turns.
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Re: Push rod adjustment

#8

Post by StueyC »

Thanks for the reply panz4ever. My lifters are definetely hydraulic. The pushrods are not original. I adjusted the front intake and after about a minute it blead down and I could rotate it by hand. I did the same with the rear intake and it wouldn't turn. I will back it off again tonight and try again.

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Re: Push rod adjustment

#9

Post by Bosheff »

Removing and cleaning out the hydraulic lifter, reassembling, and reinstalling is probably the safest way to make the adjustment. Take pushrod to zero lash, then go 4 tuns into it. With a pumped up lifter it is more than possible to over adjust and end up with a bent pushrod or maybe damage the lifter. Make sure you are on the low side of the cam. By adjusting a dry lifter you will not have to wait for the lifter to bleed down before rotating the cam/flywheels which is where you can run into trouble....bosheff
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Re: Push rod adjustment

#10

Post by StueyC »

Thanks Bosheff, I went to start the process again last night and found I could now rotate the push rod. It obviously blead down during the previous day. Just took a lot longer than the others for some reason. Appreciate the advise.

StueyC
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Re: Push rod adjustment

#11

Post by Scrap »

My buddy adjusted his Shovel and didn't let the lifters bleed down first. Started up and bent the valves. That always spooked me. Like Bosheff , I take the extra time to remove the pushrod, remove the lifter, poke a paperclip in the bottom of the lifter and squeeze out the oil, reassemble and adjust as dry. Maybe I'm being anal but its fail safe.
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Re: Push rod adjustment

#12

Post by Holtvintage »

Ok, I going to ask- I have new hydraulic lifters (mid-usa brand) I have never ran the motor, I use a little assembly lube when pulling the hydraulic unit in the tappet. In my OEM manual it said to adjust to no noticable shake, then extend till unit is full compressed, then turn up 1-1/2 turns. So I think I should use the dry method which sounds like the manual. After doing this I left it set overnight and I couldn't spin the pushrod with my fingers. Is this typical? I have a stock 1982 FLH. New pushrods, new tappets, new hydraulic units. I have the cam in the base position for the tappet concerned. The short question is should i be able to spin the rod by fingers when using the manual method? Thanks
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Re: Push rod adjustment

#13

Post by Holtvintage »

Working on rear intake valve
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Re: Push rod adjustment

#14

Post by Holtvintage »

I pulled the hydraulic unit and verified that it is dry. Pushed the ball valve to collapse piston into cup .the unit spring is the only resistance for sure
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Re: Push rod adjustment

#15

Post by Holtvintage »

The way I read this paragraph is to slowly turn rod down till the unit spring is near binding or the unit piston barely bottoms out in unit cup. Then shorten the rod by 1-1/2 turns =8 flats. Is this correct? Should I be able to barely turn the rod with my chubby fingers at this point ? It seem like a lot of tension to turn with fingers. My EVO was able to spin with fingers after 20 mins which was the sign that i could rotate motor.
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