leineweber cams

Gear Case (cams, idlers, cam cover)
58flh
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Re: leineweber cams

#31

Post by 58flh »

HEY MbSkeam--Let us know how long your rollers lasted before you replaced them!--On a FLH cam with solids I replace my rollers every other year when I pull my top-end for a LOOK-SEE!-& a Lapping!---Im sure with those vertical-ramps their life might be cut in half ,just to be on the safeside.----Respectfuly----RICHIE :?:
VPH-D
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Re: leineweber cams

#32

Post by VPH-D »

Feltham,
When I asked Andrews for advice on a cam for my kick only Shovel stroker, they told me to avoid their C cam because it would be very hard to start. My brother ran a C in his 88" Shovel with great results, but he had a button. YMMV

I bought a LW cam several years ago to replace the Andrews 6 in hopes of getting back some of the bottom end, but I haven't put it in yet. With all the talk of Jim's cams beating up the seats, maybe I never will.
VPH-D
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Re: leineweber cams

#33

Post by Cotten »

just a note on lapping valves, Folks,...

It went out of style back in the '80s.

Bronze seats tend to pick up and embed the lapping compound.
Hardened seats are just too hard to correct much inconcentricity by lapping.

A dial indicator run-out gauge will quickly tell you if the seat has lost inconcentricity, and nearly every seat that has been run, has.
Particularly the exhausts, where seven thou on reasonably low mileage seats is normal.
Modern cutters such as Neway's in skilled hands can quickly correct inconcentricities without sinking the seat beyond its lowest point.

A conventional run-out gauge requires a set of expensive pilots, so one that fits can be inserted within the valveguide from the combustion chamber side, and the equally expensive gauge turned to read the seat as it rises and lowers while its "toe" rides upon the seat.

In the absence of a conventional run-out gauge, used valves can be carved to a point, and ride on the seat when turned. This also gives a quick visual indication of where the seat falls on a standard valve.
VLVTULS.jpg
Then a common dial indicator can become a run-out gauge by making a sleeve with a set-screw to allow it to slip over the valve guide.
VLVTULS3.jpg
So, when the valve is placed in the guide and rotated upon the seat, the stem will rise and fall, and the dial indicator can read it.

This allows you to determine the lowest part of the seat (usually next to a port) and the cutter or stone biased to remove metal opposite of it, until it is level and concentric, "sinking" it as minimally as possible.

I guess my point, Folks, is that lapping is only good for inspection when there are no other means,.. if that.

And just to stay on topic, the recession near the ports is from heat distortion, not the beating from a radical cam, or even spring pressures.

....Cotten
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davestune
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Re: leineweber cams

#34

Post by davestune »

wow nice info Cotton.
and 1958 right on on just under 3000 rpm, im hoping to be around 28 0r 2900 rpm on both pan and shovel, its going to be close :)
I loved the A grind in my shovel, had to replace it with a AB
the pan I was so close on getting a stock cam but went with the J I want my pan mellow...
Again Between You and cotten the info is awsome on the tips and tricks
58flh
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Re: leineweber cams

#35

Post by 58flh »

COTTEN--I absolutely agree!--I use the Pilots from my Quickway valve-grinder--& neasure with a dial for -(inconsisty)-Spelling sucks I know :!: ,As for the Lap on the seats!--I found that every time I pull apart for a LOOK-SEE MY seats have a NICE Shiny ring about a 32nd around the perimeter of contact valve & seat!,,,My EX. I have Lapped a FEW TIMES/& I get the Bronze-seats can have compound embedded in it!--(totally makes sense).---BUT --Im guilty of doing it!--USING very LIGHT compound & LEAST as possible until I got a RING. Cleaning is VERY IMPORTANT,& a check with a cottonball AFTER all is clean will show if any abrasive is bedded into the seat!--I DO find it sporadically & not every time!---To clean it I take the valve & spin it on the seat lightly a few times & recheck,& usually that's the end of it!---If not I have used a t-shirt with nothing added just mild soap & water & clean. That usually is all it needs!--It has been working for me for ALONG TIME!---(HOWEVER IM always open for NEW IDEAS! & that's why this SITE is so GOOD!)--Respectfuly---RICHIE
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