Used hydraulic tappet inserts that pass Service Manual Push and Hold Test

[RooDog]

Just thinking out loud.....
AMF made $hitty lifters?
Patents on those lifters expired long ago, no?
$&$ bought Crane's Hi4 Ignitions. Did they get the rights for anything else from Crane's sell out?
$&$ don't make their own branded tappets / lifters for the later Evos and Twinkies, why would they tool up and make vintage apps? If $&$ does sell these lifters, surely they are getting them elsewhere, mayhaps the same place every one else gets 'em?
Dennis Kirk has them for a Hundred Dollars (H-D) a pop, says Made in USA.
https://www.denniskirk.com/s-and-s-cycl ... l+Products

$&$ is pushing their Evo lifter conversion for 1970 and later Shovels....

[jasonpmcelroy]

Timely post for me.

Rebuilt the timing chest on mine recently and found the stock rollers to be WAY out of spec. I replaced with JIMS stock style tappets but kept the original hydraulic lifters as they pass the test and look to be in fine shape (at least visually).

Was concerned by how loose the lifters fit in the new tappets. Made me wish I had replaced everything.

I did get some noise on startup and for a while but it seems to have subsided. I assumed lifters bleeding themselves as this was the first run.

Now this has me questioning. I've used sleeve retainer for many things, but can't imagine using it to glue my lifters to the tappets. Feels wrong. Interesting shop dope posted too! Thanks.

Jason

[Andygears]

From RooDog
I remember when this bogus information hit the dealership. Another turd from the MoCo? These lifters had been working just fine for 25 years, and now, all of a sudden, they needed to be glued in place?

Looking at the 80flh post and good picture. the machined finish on the mating surface of the lifter insert is much coarser than any insert I have seen. What used to be a precision ground surface is now “investment cast”? I think. Seems the factory invested in a mold to make the inserts cast to size instead of the old process of machining, hardening, and OD grinding the diameter. The peaks and valleys of the coarse surface will wear the peaks off and create slop if there is any motion between the two. But the coarse surface also retains glue or loctite better.

So the factory “invested” to get cheaper parts, didn’t work as envisioned, so glued them together as a fix.

My opinion, could be wrong
Andygears

[RooDog]

Notice that the $&$ hydraulics have a nicely machined OD compared to the OP's once glued in lifters....

S & S Hydraulic Lifters.jpg (40.9 KiB) Viewed 315 times

[80Flh]

Good info all. The best of the aftermarket other than the $ & $ are the inserts made in Japan by Datona Global and wholesaled to the many resellers of V Twin products.
At this time I only need the inserts to learn about and install.
My tappet bodies/rollers are Moco parts with low miles 15K original. The solid conversion install was by original owner.
It would be nice to see a photo of the better machined insert before AMF went cast should anyone have one on the shelf.

[panhead_kicker]

I bought this from Indianapolis SouthSide a few years back. "Made In USA"
I'd bet they still stock them.

IMG_7458.jpg (23.86 KiB) Viewed 272 times

[RooDog]

I bought this from Indianapolis SouthSide a few years back. "Made In USA"
I'd bet they still stock them.
IMG_7458.jpg

What's the production date on the package?

[panhead_kicker]

I bought this from Indianapolis SouthSide a few years back. "Made In USA"
I'd bet they still stock them.
IMG_7458.jpg

What's the production date on the package?

Manufactured in 08

[80Flh]

Nice looking part. I sent them a text. As of now I have 6 of the oem HD inserts passing the test.out of the 8 used from the bay. Lots of soaking in carb cleaner bucket and Marvel and patience. The Japan production hoping to here from someone running those.

[59Panman]

Nice looking part. I sent them a text. As of now I have 6 of the oem HD inserts passing the test.out of the 8 used from the bay. Lots of soaking in carb cleaner bucket and Marvel and patience. The Japan production hoping to here from someone running those.

Me too! On the Japanese ones.

[Hogey]

I have not fitted Daytona inserts but have used their 4 1/2" stroker kit as others did when they were avalible. I did alot of miles on it. A freind ran 93" no probs. And the othervwas fitted to a drag bike all stood the test. Daytona make nice lifter blocks. All their gear is Japan. Far better than china. I would not hesitate to us their inserts. I sent em a email and they respond right back. Check their Daytona Global Corp site. Its no swet factory

[RooDog]

You do know you can pull the center, with the spring, out of the lifter's body? I don't mean from the lower tappet body.
It is selectively fitted to its mating body, so parts should not be mixed. They are easier to clean if disassembled....

[Hogey]

Hay Roo personally i run Crane solids. Let the oil go where needed. How ya been mate? The AU $ is shit that is good for you. Come to my place for a holiday. Open invite mate. You have my email address.
Regards Hogey. PS ol lady is kool

[80Flh]

Roodog, working on the stuck check ball lifter insert 7 out of 8. Seems like the Marvel soak really works to break down the sticky check ball due to dried sticky oil varnish. These came out of a buyout of an old Harley shop out of Georgia. The piston was really hard to get out of some of them. For $40 including shipping (8 AMF inserts)I do not have any complaints nor should I. I did see a photo where someone had pressed the tube, check ball, and flat disk with bleed hole out but I have had no success trying to take apart to see how these operate. In the pic of the loctited insert
there are 2 vertical gouges on both sides 180 degrees opposite each other. Figured something caused that but guessing. Doubt I would use that one. Appreciate every post in thread as it may be useful to more than me. I had no issues on the Sifton or Colony solid conversion just want to learn to run hydraulics should I revert back.

[80Flh]

Roodog, working on the stuck check ball lifter insert 7 out of 8. Seems like the Marvel soak really works to break down the sticky check ball due to dried sticky oil varnish. These came out of a buyout of an old Harley shop out of Georgia. The piston was really hard to get out of some of them. For $40 including shipping (8 AMF inserts)I do not have any complaints nor should I. I did see a photo where someone had pressed the tube, check ball, and flat disk with bleed hole out but I have had no success trying to take apart to see how these operate. In the pic of the loctited insert
there are 2 vertical gouges on both sides 180 degrees opposite each other. Figured something caused that but guessing. Doubt I would use that one. Appreciate every post in thread as it may be useful to more than me. I had no issues on the Sifton or Colony solid conversion just want to learn to run hydraulics should I revert back.