New wiring for turn-indicator on socket?
-
- Member
- Posts: 43
- Joined: Mon Nov 22, 2010 11:18 pm
- Bikes: 47 EL
48 EL
49 EL
50 EL
60 G
67 FLH - Has thanked: 2 times
- Been thanked: 10 times
Re: New wiring for turn-indicator on socket?
Un-solder the original and re-solder it on the new wire.
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 5327
- Joined: Tue Oct 31, 2017 1:00 pm
- Bikes: 1950 Panhead, Resto-Mod
1968 90", 5 Speed Shovelhead,
1984 Home Built Custom Evo 100" Bagger - Location: Knoxville, Tennessee
- Has thanked: 2801 times
- Been thanked: 2158 times
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 591
- Joined: Wed Apr 29, 2020 8:24 am
- Bikes: 68 FL
- Location: Nambour Qld Australia
- Has thanked: 256 times
- Been thanked: 476 times
Re: New wiring for turn-indicator on socket?
DIY button/terminal/contact for bulb...
Strip approx 3mm of wire insulation, flare/bend the copper strands over 90degrees (like a fan), if you think its too big OD, use fingers to rearrange copper strands tangentially, blob of solder to join all the strands, strengthen and raise contact point, maybe a touch with a file and you're done.
60-40 rosin core solder best for electrics, NEVER use liquid/acid based flux anywhere near electric wires/components, it will get the job done quick, but, the acid tracks up the copper strands inside insulation and corrodes the copper, the copper wire adjacent to soldered joint will fail prematurely. If working with old tarnished wire etc, use a small brass, or stainless bristled brush to remove tarnish/light corrosion until shiny, then make joint and solder with rosin core.
Absolute best electrical joint is clean, crimped, then soldered, the crimp provides best electrical connection, the solder seals joint so no internal corrosion can occur later, thus lengthens life of electrical joint in hostile environment of real-world usage.
EDIT
Re above DIY button/terminal/contact for bulb...
I just learned something
Late 1920's-early 1930's Chevrolet cars & trucks did something very similar, but they took it to another level by inserting a small tack (flat headed nail & presumably copper) wire stripped and flared as I described, tack inserted axially into copper strands, tack and flare soldered together to form the contact "nub" as described here
https://www.fillingstation.com/headlight/
Copper tacks still available, "cut tacks" have a tapered shank and would therefore be easiest to insert into wire. Back in time millions of copper tacks were used with canvas and paint to cover boat decks & cabins for water-proofing, before fiberglass. (apply thick coat of paint, immediately lay down canvas, stretch so no wrinkles, tacks around edges for security, another coat of paint on top) Copper tacks also used on boat hulls to retain copper sheet "sheathing", before anti-foul paint invented.
But I've made many contacts for bulbs as per first description sans tack, and never had a failure.
Nifty
Strip approx 3mm of wire insulation, flare/bend the copper strands over 90degrees (like a fan), if you think its too big OD, use fingers to rearrange copper strands tangentially, blob of solder to join all the strands, strengthen and raise contact point, maybe a touch with a file and you're done.
60-40 rosin core solder best for electrics, NEVER use liquid/acid based flux anywhere near electric wires/components, it will get the job done quick, but, the acid tracks up the copper strands inside insulation and corrodes the copper, the copper wire adjacent to soldered joint will fail prematurely. If working with old tarnished wire etc, use a small brass, or stainless bristled brush to remove tarnish/light corrosion until shiny, then make joint and solder with rosin core.
Absolute best electrical joint is clean, crimped, then soldered, the crimp provides best electrical connection, the solder seals joint so no internal corrosion can occur later, thus lengthens life of electrical joint in hostile environment of real-world usage.
EDIT
Re above DIY button/terminal/contact for bulb...
I just learned something
Late 1920's-early 1930's Chevrolet cars & trucks did something very similar, but they took it to another level by inserting a small tack (flat headed nail & presumably copper) wire stripped and flared as I described, tack inserted axially into copper strands, tack and flare soldered together to form the contact "nub" as described here
https://www.fillingstation.com/headlight/
Copper tacks still available, "cut tacks" have a tapered shank and would therefore be easiest to insert into wire. Back in time millions of copper tacks were used with canvas and paint to cover boat decks & cabins for water-proofing, before fiberglass. (apply thick coat of paint, immediately lay down canvas, stretch so no wrinkles, tacks around edges for security, another coat of paint on top) Copper tacks also used on boat hulls to retain copper sheet "sheathing", before anti-foul paint invented.
But I've made many contacts for bulbs as per first description sans tack, and never had a failure.
Nifty
Last edited by nifty on Wed Sep 28, 2022 2:31 am, edited 1 time in total.
-
- Member
- Posts: 170
- Joined: Sun Mar 27, 2022 6:22 pm
- Bikes: Royal Enfield Bullet Classic
1962 FLHF - Location: Frankfurt
- Has thanked: 108 times
- Been thanked: 11 times
Re: New wiring for turn-indicator on socket?
Unfortunately that's not possible. In order to get the old wire out i had to pull with needle-pliers which resulted in the destruction of the old button.1947knucklehead wrote: ↑Mon Sep 26, 2022 11:52 pm Un-solder the original and re-solder it on the new wire.
-
- Member
- Posts: 170
- Joined: Sun Mar 27, 2022 6:22 pm
- Bikes: Royal Enfield Bullet Classic
1962 FLHF - Location: Frankfurt
- Has thanked: 108 times
- Been thanked: 11 times
Re: New wiring for turn-indicator on socket?
Spring is fine. I don't think this bulb contact will work since the hole in the pertinax-insulator has a diameter of 0.138". I guess it will be slightly too thick.RooDog wrote: ↑Tue Sep 27, 2022 12:18 am Was the spring in your socket any good?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-each-1157-11 ... 3095001217
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 5327
- Joined: Tue Oct 31, 2017 1:00 pm
- Bikes: 1950 Panhead, Resto-Mod
1968 90", 5 Speed Shovelhead,
1984 Home Built Custom Evo 100" Bagger - Location: Knoxville, Tennessee
- Has thanked: 2801 times
- Been thanked: 2158 times
Re: New wiring for turn-indicator on socket?
That's 3/16 for the contact's OD, not the hole it must pass through.
-
- Member
- Posts: 170
- Joined: Sun Mar 27, 2022 6:22 pm
- Bikes: Royal Enfield Bullet Classic
1962 FLHF - Location: Frankfurt
- Has thanked: 108 times
- Been thanked: 11 times
Re: New wiring for turn-indicator on socket?
What about these? Could that be the right ones???
https://www.thegoodoldmotorcyclepartsco ... 02-05-7214
https://www.thegoodoldmotorcyclepartsco ... 02-05-7214
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 1600
- Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 2:57 am
- Bikes: Pan
FLHP Evo
E-H Super X
Chubble head hack
Servi-car
Topper(s)
Model 64D (Hey its got 3 wheels!) - Location: Indianapolis
- Has thanked: 399 times
- Been thanked: 364 times
Re: New wiring for turn-indicator on socket?
I've dealt with these folks a couple times. large selection of hardware.
http://www.riwire.com/Catalogs/sup/pages/supplies.htm
http://www.riwire.com/Catalogs/sup/pages/supplies.htm
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2082
- Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2007 3:03 am
- Bikes: '52 FL
'64 FLH - Has thanked: 163 times
- Been thanked: 511 times
Re: New wiring for turn-indicator on socket?
What is meant by pertinax-insulator?DeltaElite wrote: ↑Tue Sep 27, 2022 4:12 pmSpring is fine. I don't think this bulb contact will work since the hole in the pertinax-insulator has a diameter of 0.138". I guess it will be slightly too thick.RooDog wrote: ↑Tue Sep 27, 2022 12:18 am Was the spring in your socket any good?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-each-1157-11 ... 3095001217
-
- Member
- Posts: 170
- Joined: Sun Mar 27, 2022 6:22 pm
- Bikes: Royal Enfield Bullet Classic
1962 FLHF - Location: Frankfurt
- Has thanked: 108 times
- Been thanked: 11 times
Re: New wiring for turn-indicator on socket?
This round plate shown in the pictureWhat is meant by pertinax-insulator?
-
- Site Admin
- Senior Member
- Posts: 3287
- Joined: Mon Jan 01, 2001 12:00 pm
- Bikes: 1954 FL
- Location: Holland
- Has thanked: 108 times
- Been thanked: 485 times
Re: New wiring for turn-indicator on socket?
According to wikipedia: FR-2 (Flame Resistant 2) is a NEMA designation for synthetic resin bonded paper, a composite material made of paper impregnated with a plasticized phenol formaldehyde resin, used in the manufacture of printed circuit boards. Its main properties are similar to NEMA grade XXXP (MIL-P-3115) material, and can be substituted for the latter in many applications.
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2082
- Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2007 3:03 am
- Bikes: '52 FL
'64 FLH - Has thanked: 163 times
- Been thanked: 511 times
Re: New wiring for turn-indicator on socket?
But, what does that have to do with "pertinax"?panhead wrote: ↑Tue Sep 27, 2022 8:10 pm According to wikipedia: FR-2 (Flame Resistant 2) is a NEMA designation for synthetic resin bonded paper, a composite material made of paper impregnated with a plasticized phenol formaldehyde resin, used in the manufacture of printed circuit boards. Its main properties are similar to NEMA grade XXXP (MIL-P-3115) material, and can be substituted for the latter in many applications.