first start no spark
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first start no spark
I'm ready to start my project for the first time, I'm not getting any spark from my magneto which is I think, an old sportster body which I filled with Morris parts. Rotor, shaft, points and condenser but I'm not sure about the coil. It looks never run to me, but who knows. I need to know if I can get reliable values testing it in place?
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Re: first start no spark
Mags are VERY easy to use and maintain. Most folk that have probs is because thier mags are just wore out, or got it used with no clue of what has been changed, its workimg condition, is wore out or buggered up: Magnets, condenser, points or coil could be bad. Shaft could be worn causing wobble at the points I doubt your mag was on a sporty. They have a completely dif set up (Unless, I guess, the mag body only was used for on your your current pan mag base)
If so, that raises a red flag for me as a hack job (Understand, I have never personally seen or heard of a sporty mag body used on a pan mag base, so it could be a common change out, I dont know)
The key is to bench test your mag BEFORE its installed
FIRST AND FOREMOST: See the small terminal with the small nut on the outside of the mag body? Thats for attaching a wire, that when grounded, will work as a kill switch: If you look closely at how it goes thru into the mag body itself are very small plastic type parts that keeps the small bolt going thru the mag body from grounding out: If these are worn or missing, you will never get a spark
For the below test, you still have to be sure your points are gtg and set correctly, or at least close. Timing at this point is not a concern
1. Remove BOTH spark plugs (So you can turn over motor easier)
2. Remove BOTH spark plug wires at mag cover
3. Do this in the dark if possible, it helps to see spark: Using a small jumper wire, stick it in one spark plug terminal in the cap. (Be sure its touching the base of the terminal) The other end, hold it just a hair from touching the other terminal, but far enough so you see the end of the wire
4. Kick over bike: You should IMMEDIATELY and hear a spark jump
5. If no spark, kick over while looking at points: You should see spark
If you dont, one or more components could be shot or worn out (I dont know how to check individual components)
Note: Dont try the old "hold a spark plug against a head" and look for spark while turning over engine: It wont work with a mag
My big suspect in your case is you dont know your history of the mag: There were probably poor hacks done to it, poor parts, who knows........
Anyone considering installing a used mag: BENCH TEST IT before you install it: Lotsa stuff on you tube on how to do it
Last: There are a few vendors out there that restore and test mags. Thats really your best bet if it doesnt work: The good vendors out there will test it BEFORE they work on it, and will call you on what needs to be replaced, if the shaft is worn, etc, how much etc..........
Mags, when all parts are working are FAILSAFE, reliable, and will last for years The bad rap they get are from cobbled together mags, wore out mag components, etc
If so, that raises a red flag for me as a hack job (Understand, I have never personally seen or heard of a sporty mag body used on a pan mag base, so it could be a common change out, I dont know)
The key is to bench test your mag BEFORE its installed
FIRST AND FOREMOST: See the small terminal with the small nut on the outside of the mag body? Thats for attaching a wire, that when grounded, will work as a kill switch: If you look closely at how it goes thru into the mag body itself are very small plastic type parts that keeps the small bolt going thru the mag body from grounding out: If these are worn or missing, you will never get a spark
For the below test, you still have to be sure your points are gtg and set correctly, or at least close. Timing at this point is not a concern
1. Remove BOTH spark plugs (So you can turn over motor easier)
2. Remove BOTH spark plug wires at mag cover
3. Do this in the dark if possible, it helps to see spark: Using a small jumper wire, stick it in one spark plug terminal in the cap. (Be sure its touching the base of the terminal) The other end, hold it just a hair from touching the other terminal, but far enough so you see the end of the wire
4. Kick over bike: You should IMMEDIATELY and hear a spark jump
5. If no spark, kick over while looking at points: You should see spark
If you dont, one or more components could be shot or worn out (I dont know how to check individual components)
Note: Dont try the old "hold a spark plug against a head" and look for spark while turning over engine: It wont work with a mag
My big suspect in your case is you dont know your history of the mag: There were probably poor hacks done to it, poor parts, who knows........
Anyone considering installing a used mag: BENCH TEST IT before you install it: Lotsa stuff on you tube on how to do it
Last: There are a few vendors out there that restore and test mags. Thats really your best bet if it doesnt work: The good vendors out there will test it BEFORE they work on it, and will call you on what needs to be replaced, if the shaft is worn, etc, how much etc..........
Mags, when all parts are working are FAILSAFE, reliable, and will last for years The bad rap they get are from cobbled together mags, wore out mag components, etc
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Re: first start no spark
One more important mag issue is absolute cleanliness. Dirt or carbon in a mag can allow the spark to go where it isn't supposed to.
Sportster bodies are the same as those used on BT so with the appropriate rotor and shaft all else will interchange. Does it have a key switch? They are often internally shorted. Disconnect it to test. Coil mounting screws tight? The coil must be grounded to the body. Is the magnetism good? Many older farm repair facilities can recharge the magnets.
Sportster bodies are the same as those used on BT so with the appropriate rotor and shaft all else will interchange. Does it have a key switch? They are often internally shorted. Disconnect it to test. Coil mounting screws tight? The coil must be grounded to the body. Is the magnetism good? Many older farm repair facilities can recharge the magnets.
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Re: first start no spark
Thanks, I pulled it to prove a spark. I thought that I had changed out the condenser but evidently I didn't, so I put a new one in, put the drill motor to it and had a nice sharp spark. However, put it back in but couldn't get a snort out of it. What I found was the lifters haven't pumped up and they should have I think. I've been kicking it quite a bit in the past year. I found something different on my tappet bodies compared to others that I have. The hole for oil passage on what I am using is a full hole up the tappet seemingly blocking any flow to the lifter. I tried submerging them in oil and pumping them up but it wouldn't take. I have no idea whether or not lease are stock parts, they look it.
This one is going to challenge me I feel.
This one is going to challenge me I feel.
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Re: first start no spark
Looking for some wisdom on my magneto. I pulled it to prove the spark which it has outside of the bike, but in the bike no go. I thought maybe the switch I'm using for a kill switch might be the culprit but it didn't change things. I know what common sense says .....
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Re: first start no spark
You're sure it isn't timed 180 out or anything else simple? Points gapped at 15-18? Checking with all external connections disconnected? Does it have internal air gap like early Sportster or not (Sawtooth brass affair)? Solid core plug wires?nmaineron wrote: ↑Sun Sep 04, 2022 5:37 pm Looking for some wisdom on my magneto. I pulled it to prove the spark which it has outside of the bike, but in the bike no go. I thought maybe the switch I'm using for a kill switch might be the culprit but it didn't change things. I know what common sense says .....
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Re: first start no spark
Thanks Rob, at this point I don't know. I went through all that yesterday, double checked the timing and took the kill switch and the internal wiring for it off. Wires are solid core. Points at .015. Plugs at 25. I'm not familiar with the Sportster internal air gap.
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Re: first start no spark
What plugs are you trying it on? If they have an internal gap (some modern types do) they will defeat the mag.nmaineron wrote: ↑Sun Sep 04, 2022 10:37 pm Thanks Rob, at this point I don't know. I went through all that yesterday, double checked the timing and took the kill switch and the internal wiring for it off. Wires are solid core. Points at .015. Plugs at 25. I'm not familiar with the Sportster internal air gap.
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Re: first start no spark
I think I may have found my problem. After Robs post I had to go and check my timing again which I have done repeatedly for the past few days. But, this time I did my thing got the front intake closing, small lobe on the mag coming up and the line in the window. What have not seen in all these times is that there is another line along side the first one I had forgotten all about. I never saw this line because when I bring it to the hole as soon as I see the line at the edge I stop and do my adjustments. I didn't see the back line because I was looking at it from the right side. Tomorrow is a new day.