first start no spark

[chuckthebeatertruck]

Let’s start over.

I strongly suspect three things:
1) your plug gaps are too big for YOU. Until you get your kick squared, try closing the gaps down to 020. See if it helps. As you wear the motor in you can open the gaps for better hot starting.

2) your kicking speed is too slow to light the mag. Kicking speed is around 300 rpm, or 150rpm to the mag. Spinning with a drill motor to test is way too fast. You need to jump a 3/8 to 1/2” gap at finger spinning speed. If using a plug to test, gap it to .125. It should spark fat on every single break of the points, if you’re kicking fast enough.

3) you have a 16t kicker gear. You may need a 14t to get moving fast enough.

Often, guys approach kicking a magneto poorly. It is not like a battery bike. Often, until you learn the sweet spot, it’s easier to bring it over compression, then kick. The bigger the bike, the more necessary this becomes.

It’s all about your kick. . .too slow and no go. Too advanced, no go. Too weak a mix, no go.

Also,don’t be afraid to try a different kicking style. Most guys have trouble lighting magnetos on a big twin from a straddle kick unless they bring it over compression first.

I watched one of my “students” kick his 76” stroker 900 xlch, with a stock Fairbanks magneto, to life at Davenport this week in sandals. A couple of experts told him kicking like he does is wrong. He can start his bike in one kick, the experts couldn’t get the bike over compression.

Another cheat isto bump it. Put it in fourth, give it a run and see if it pops. If it does, you know for sure it’s kicking speed. Often a bike that’s close will bump even if you can’t catch it on the kick.

Take your time. The problems with mags are 90 percent owner, 8 percent plug gaps, and 2 percent wires or condenser. Coils, nope, not oem Fairbanks. Other mags, sure, but not oem Fairbanks.

[nmaineron]

Well , what I found was my timing was definitely out. I couldn't find anything on these flywheels through the knowledge base and google however Palmers mentions them saying that the two hash lines are for front cylinder retard timing, on the 65 through 69 models and is not used anymore. Mine are from a 67. Beside all that, I still don't have any spark. Something stupid I'm sure. I started to make a battery box today. I need to hear it run.

[RooDog]

I never look at the pushrods. I hold my thumb over the spark plug hole until I feel compression. That way I know for a fact I am on the compression stroke for the front cylinder, eh?
Then I begin to slowly rotate the engine until the advanced timing mark presents itself. Take a flashlight and look into the spark plug hole, the piston should be visible but down in the bore before TDC. If the piston ain't there then the timing mark is somehow wrong. Again: No need to mess with the pushrod cover....
....RooDog....

[nmaineron]

I've run out of ideas. The mag stands alone in the hole with a new rotor, shaft ,bearings and seals as well as condenser and points. She refuses to play while in the bike so it's going on the shelf. I was expecting to start it back in July and now I'm looking at cold weather coming around the corner. Maybe I can figure it out this winter.

[RUBONE]

I've run out of ideas. The mag stands alone in the hole with a new rotor, shaft ,bearings and seals as well as condenser and points. She refuses to play while in the bike so it's going on the shelf. I was expecting to start it back in July and now I'm looking at cold weather coming around the corner. Maybe I can figure it out this winter.

None of it makes sense Ron, mags are dead simple, a self contained system, so unless there is some sort of internal ground occurring it doesn't seem to jive. I have magnetos on several bikes and have used them for years. H-Ds Triumphs, all pre '70 BMWs, etc. All work the same, and all work.

[nmaineron]

I got my first start today. I took the mag out, bought a battery and built a box for it and wired it up for the new ignition. She started up believe it or not on the first kick but I noticed right off that I have a major oil leak. I'm not sure what it is though. There is a hole at the top of the oil pump on the case face between the Check valve tower and the plugged tower beside it. It looks like it is located at the bottom of the tappet screen port like maybe it was machined off and left a really thin spot on the face and it blew out. Or, it may have been drilled for a later style pump. I dunno, I'll dig into it tomorrow.

[RooDog]

Here's some info from $&$, it might be helpful....

https://www.sscycle.com/docs/default-so ... f?sfvrsn=2
Best wishes....RooDog....

[nmaineron]

What that hole is, is a half assed attempt drill a hole at an angle without a pilot and my stupidity to not address it when I should have. What advantage would be gained by drilling into the by-pass chamber?

[RooDog]

What that hole is, is a half assed attempt drill a hole at an angle without a pilot and my stupidity to not address it when I should have. What advantage would be gained by drilling into the by-pass chamber?

Did you read the $&$ instructions? It's explained therein....

[nmaineron]

Yes I did read it. They don't drill the hole I have, probably a different path to the same end.

[RooDog]

Can you tap the hole just deep enough to insert a grub screw ( short set screw ) to plug said hole?

[panheadrider1961]

S&S has 2 or 3 drill fixtures you bolt in pumps place when upgrading to their pumps different years different fixture tatro machine on you tube does a pump upgrade to pan cases

[Buddhahoodvatoloco]

[/Oil Pump drill blockb]

[nifty]

Yes I did read it. They don't drill the hole I have, probably a different path to the same end.

Without pictures I'm guessing and I hate to guess
My 2c
The OE 81up pump and most, but not all S&S pumps have an extra oil drilling and a different gasket with this extra hole above the level of the 2 top studs/bolts.
There should be no drillings above the 2 top OP studs/bolt holes of any pre 70 case with tappet screen/strainer.
S&S don't recommend the 81up style pump for pre 70 case with screen/strainer, because if you jig-drill the required hole above top studs for 81up pump, the drill breaks into the tappet screen/strainer cavity and lifter/top end pressure/feed oil. 70 up the screen/strainer was repositioned in crankcase and 70-80 are safe to drill & use -81up style pump.

IMO S&S don't help by wrongly describing the above 81up extra hole as "relief", when in fact it is a drain hole for "hydrolock port"
The 81up pump and most S&S pumps dump their real "relief/bypass" oil to suction side of feed pump.
The 81up crankcase drilling above OP top studs, breaks into the camcase.

It sounds to me like you may have correct conversion pump, but some previous "mechanic" attempted to wrongly modify case for the wrong pump.

As Roo suggested, you might save the case by tapping & plugging the new/extra/unwanted hole.

Nifty

[panheadrider1961]

Is posting a picture possible? Nmaine