Oil Filter for a Flathead?

[panzer45]

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The repro oil tank I purchased for my rebuild has alot of contamination / welding slag in it. I flushed it with 3 gallons of mineral spirits and still can not get all the debris out. So I've decided to install what is called a "pre oil filter" It not a paper filter, it''s a wire mesh with a magnet in a small canister. Not sure of the placement yet, but I think closer to the tank will be better. I'll cut the feed line and install it with high temp reenforced tubing. Any thoughts?

Mike

[Little Stan]

Not a bad idea considering your oil tank condition but I'd keep an eye on it and your oil pressure light. Another consideration is to also use a magnetic drain plug.

An old saying I heard a long time ago,"dirty oil or wrong oil is better than no oil". The last thing you would want is for that filter to clog even for a minute or so.

-little stan

[wannchev]

The magnetic sump plug seems to catch more iron sludge than the magnetic filter in the suction line. Maybe because the pump return line ends under the tank filler cap above the drain plug location . The sludge collected on the magnetic plug is at a max after starting a rebuilt engine.

[Pascal]

NEVER install an oilfilter on your FEEDline!!
Always put it on the return/ scavanger pipe.
It will create flow-issues...I hope you'll watch your idiot-light..or else $$$$$...

[chuckthebeatertruck]

I have one of those sifton pos pre filters. Was used as a return filter.

Total garbage and was just a messy affair.

The mesh is useless for anything but pea gravel. Adding more screening will impair flow and if it does catch debris you’ll clog it in moments.

It created issues on the return. . .I can’t even imagine what it would do on the feed.

[panzer45]

With all the reading that I've done, Oil pre filters are meant for feed lines, not returns. Regular paper cartridge oil filters are for the return lines. Pre filters are common today on motorcycle and marine applications. It is meant to trap large "chunks" rather than clean//filter the oil. In my case, I have chunks of debris in my oil tank. So I think if the pre filter got "clogged: with debris, then it did it's job of preventing engine damage. To me putting it on the return would allow all the debris to enter the engine, and who's to say it's "coming out" I believe this is a good temporary solution to clean out any "chunks. Just my opinion.
Mike

[Little Stan]

Something a friend of mine would do was to mount gas tanks on a small cement mixer! He would put abrasive media along with old nuts and bolts,rocks, some diesel or mineral spirits, plug off all holes and then "tumble" the tank for long periods of time. He did this for gas tanks that had that "kreme" coating that was failing.

-little stan

[RooDog]

With all the reading that I've done, Oil pre filters are meant for feed lines, not returns. Regular paper cartridge oil filters are for the return lines. Pre filters are common today on motorcycle and marine applications. It is meant to trap large "chunks" rather than clean//filter the oil. In my case, I have chunks of debris in my oil tank. So I think if the pre filter got "clogged: with debris, then it did it's job of preventing engine damage. To me putting it on the return would allow all the debris to enter the engine, and who's to say it's "coming out" I believe this is a good temporary solution to clean out any "chunks. Just my opinion.
Mike

What is it about PRE FILTER that is so hard to understand?
I agree with you. Since you could not get that tank satisfactorily cleaned, and did not use sealer, which is what it is meant to do, seal. BTW, not stop leaks.
Just open up and clean that filter often, and you should be OK, if the element is open enough to allow cold oil to gravity feed.
And maybe a conventional filter in the return line would be a good idea too....
....RooDog....

[kitabel]

Now, all you need to do is install 9 more of them in parallel to insure that when it clogs the others will still prevent your driving over the connecting rods.
Rule #1 of hydraulic engineering: no restrictions in the supply line.

[Larry]

Have you considered vinegar over several days?

[panzer45]

I guess that’s why all modern engines have pre filters
It’s a PRE FILTER.

[Pascal]

...but they all have a by-pass...

[Andygears]

In my opinion, why are you using an expensive UL motor to pump the debris from the oil tank? Using a cheap drill motor pump and your filter setup while shaking the tank, running it empty, refill it, maybe use kerosene instead of oil, and spend some time, hours, flushing and refilling. Automatic transmission rebuilders flush the radiator coolers with this method, in fact they may do your oil tank for a fee.

Yes! A Harley motor is a pump, it is not a dirty water pump, they sell them at Harbor Freight.

Andygears

[RooDog]

I guess that’s why all modern engines have pre filters
It’s a PRE FILTER.

Those automotive Pre Filters are in the fuel system. The fuel pump is inside the tank where the fuel keeps it cool. The filters are a necessity for the fuel injection system . There is no direct comparison here to your situation.

My local radiator shop uses a candy red colored sealer after a thorough cleaning of the inside of the tank. Too bad that process destroys any paint. and is something builders need to consider before finishing bondo and paint work.
Surely you do not want to destroy that nice paint job, so best wishes with your efforts.....
....RooDog....

[Pascal]

In my opinion, why are you using an expensive UL motor to pump the debris from the oil tank?
Andygears

It's a WL motor Andy, but still an expensive pump..