Troubles finding Part#s

[RooDog]

If that CV carbby works, you will be way happier with it than an old original Linkert, or most anything else , for that matter. But the air cleaner, with its foam filter element is crap....

[RUBONE]

Are you sure you want to know?

Yes! It's not bought yet. Theres still time to flee, so please: Fire!!!

I don't want to make it perfect. If that would be my intention i would buy a different bike.

But this has some nice numbers and frame, which is rare enough on European. Market. 9 out of 10 Bikes have tampered Numbers.

The rest if the Bike seems.to be a mix of parts. But for German market its quite cheap. I rather prefer riding my 1st Harley than just hunting a dream.

Yes, the silicone is ugly. I will put another Carb on it anyway so i will work myself through that as well.

Some of the things i find disturbing e.g. Hex-Bolts and i want to change them.

Having older parts on the bike is no problem for me... But younger parts.... Hmmm. I already found a pair of 1962 Tanks

And no, Fender has no internal bracing or so

So just a few for starters,

Front fender is 70's or aftermarket, front fender tip aftermarket.
Muffler is '65 up
All handlebar controls and bars are later and or reproduction. The levers are mid '60s style, the bars a bend H-D never did. They should have internal controls on both sides.
Fender struts are a must, otherwise that fender won't last a week. Taillight is wrong too. But the fender looks aftermarket anyway.
Kicker arm is wrong, too much offset, pedal is '63 up, it should have a bicycle type.
Horn is wrong, should be inside the nacelle and not that style.
Ignition is wrong for '62 should have a dual point type.
Ignition switch is wrong. Later style
Footboards are reproduction.
It does however have an original Police style sidestand (other than the chrome).
Rear wheel is either aftermarket or at least a later model, not a star hub. Can't see the front but my guess is that it is the same.
We already talked about the primary covers.
Lots of extra chrome , etc.
Overall a very nice looking bike for a rider. Trying to get it more correct could get pricey! If it is what you want then no worries. And as you say, most European imports are incorrect VIN numbers. Did you by chance get the frame code off the top engine/seat/tank mount while the tanks were off?

[DeltaElite]

Thanks, bit more than expected.

My plan is to initially get original:

Handlebar,
Control Levers,
Ignition
Horn (already included)
62 Tank
Kicker-Pedal
Screws as far as possible
Mirrors (i already have)
Toolbox
Straight Muffler, if possible NOS
I will keep the wrong taillight

I couldn't see the frame code so far

Before I do the math, what would be a rough estimate for all the parts if they are not made out of unobtainium?

[RooDog]

Th

Before I do the math, what would be a rough estimate for all the parts if they are not made out of unobtainium?

More than you can ever imagine.
But first you need to take possession of the bike, and fix what must be fixed to get it registered and reliably road worthy....

[DeltaElite]

Rear fender is reinforced!

There is a number on the frame but unreadable since the Frame is powdercoated.

[DeltaElite]

Did you by chance get the frame code off the top engine/seat/tank mount while the tanks were off?

Is it this Number?

I tried to enhance and turned the Number for better readability

[Mongrel505558]

Did you by chance get the frame code off the top engine/seat/tank mount while the tanks were off?

Is it this Number?

I tried to enhance and turned the Number for better readability

The number that tells you when the frame was assembled is on the top motor mount tab, usually on the right side. It's a stamped letter and number giving you the month and year. It can be hard to find if the frame is powder coated.

[dontsink]

With powder coating it could be invisible as well. That´s from my frame after removing the paint, the number says it´from may (E) 57 (7).

[Andygears]

How do you like the CV carb?

I can't tell. Bike was not ready to start. But I don't like the optics on that bike. I will change it most probably

It “Looks” like a nice rider, but if it doesn’t run, you are taking a big gamble that could cost thousands of dollars to get roadworthy. And then you want to replace a lot to make it original. Why would someone or a shop go this far, new paint, motor done?, lots of aftermarket parts and chrome, put together and then not make it run to get a better price for it??

Unless you are able to verify that some personal circumstance by the owner caused this bike to be sold prematurely, I would not buy it unless it “Rode & Drove”. It seems pretty close to getting running, my fear would be that the engine was not done well and would require a complete overhaul, and transmission? Also unknown.

Look at that bike and imagine all the work and money put in already to make it “Aftermarket pretty”. Don’t be suckered by a pretty face. The aftermarket parts that bike is adorned with were cheap and I’d say they could have all been purchased with the proceeds from selling off the original stuff if that stuff was there. If the original parts were not there prior to this rebuild, then you have a pieced together swap meet special!

I don’t know what you’re paying but adding $10k to make it right, your vision, would not be out of the question.

My Opinion only

Andygears

[DeltaElite]

@Andygears
This bike is not sold by a shop. It was sold in 1988 (and that was probably when the non-standard cheap parts were put on it) after being imported from the US. Maybe it was a salvage title or something like that, who knows. It was then occasionally driven by the owner until 1998 and then the bike was flooded with Ballistol inside&outside and stored until it was bought in 2021 by the previous owner. He cleaned approx. 95% of it, but there's still a lot of Ballistol to be removed.

Painting is from 1988/1989, paperwork is clean and it doesn't have the "German-dBA-issue" (which is very rare, even more rare than to find a legit case#)

Decisions to buy a certain bike are rarely rational. This bike speaks to me. Why? Well, too many reasons and none really convincing

Engine is already overhauled by a wellknown German Drag-Racer (5th oversize Piston, cylinder honed, lead-free, valve-seats,valve-guides, rockers and some threads repaired). It only needs to be properly timed and valve-clearance has to be adjusted.

Main brake-cylinder has to be cleaned and flushed to get all the Ballistol out of it. If that doesn't work i already have a new one.

It comes with an CV-Carb and a Bendix Zenith Carb showing 27155-72A on top. I was not able so far to find out what the original carb would have been, but selling the Bendix could make some money for some other parts.

Transmission could be an issue, i couldn't really check, but at least i was able to switch through all gears per hand.
Of course, it might be, that the engine won't run.

But the current owner has a reason to sell it, that - as far as i could verify - sounds legit. He has a lot of Harleys and he simply has to reduce.

Good FLHs in Germany are @25K upwards reaching as high as 35K.
This one is well below, has the correct numbers, both on the engine/bellies/frame as well as in the papers (which is a big big growing deal in noise-sensitive Germany) and with about 2000-3000 i can reach a satisfactory state of appearance. It will never be original but i will try to make it as close as possible.

My goal ist to get it on the road within the next few weeks and then start my work from front to end.

First i will take care of the Handelbar-Section: new bars, throttle/timing, grips, mirror (already have a NOS), clutch&brake-lever.
I already have a 100% original Tombstone Taillight....yes i know it's the wrong one, but i like it....and if i ride along with the wrong one i want it to be original at least

Maybe this season i will remodel the ignition/coil/cables and attach the original trumpet-horn (already have it OEM). Maybe the horn being 6v might become an issue but i'm sure theres a solution for that.

I got my hands on some unobtainium #65242-51B, if it fits i will try to buy.

The only thing left for me would be then the carb-section. But thats winter-stuff.

But i guess you're right: it's a swap meet build. But i like it and the idea that this bike was moved less than 1000miles between 1988 and 1998 and then stored for 22 years filled with weapon oil in the engine, the gear, the tank, the-oil-tank and even the braking system as well as on the complete outside. The "shine" you see is not new, its something between 22 or 32 years old.

[RooDog]

I still think it's a good looking bike, and will give the nose picker/tire kickers a lot to talk about.
But: I would expect some one selling a complete, and good looking machines, such as yours, would be able to get it started & running for the new buyer. Otherwise it is an expensive piece of garage art until proven otherwise. Not just an opinion, but the way it is.

[Robert Luland]

I don't know what you're paying for this but if you're comfortable with the price? Buy it and enjoy it. You got the rest of your life to fiddle and change things. Bob L

[DeltaElite]

But: I would expect some one selling a complete, and good looking machines, such as yours, would be able to get it started & running for the new buyer.

Yeah. You hit it. That was my.first thought when i saw it.

And only time will tell. In a few weeks we'll know more and i will post it here.

[Andygears]

You do not need to defend your decision to buy to me but it is good that you can. Too often, people buy because of a strong desire and lack of alternative bikes. Expressing the history that you know shows you did consider some of the things I mentioned. The price seems high for a bike that is not running but I know absolutely nothing about the German market. It seems very close to running and I would concentrate on that before changing anything.

So buy it and enjoy the build, it’s a hobby after all, not life or death.

Andygears

[Wrong Road]

Re post #11 above by RooDog

"That squoozed out sealer at the heads to manifold joints, totally unnecessary if assembled properly, is a sure sign of an uncaring assembler. A little brake clean, a rag, and a toothbrush, usually takes care of that surplus squeezed out material both of crappy silicone sealer, but also the necessary Teflon™ pipe sealer."

On my '60 FLH I have not used any sealant on the Linkert intake manifold. What is the recommended sealant, if any? Teflon tape?

Thanks