Paugho 45 build

[RooDog]

Only reason not to float the torque link (permit rotation at both ends) in vehicles with rear suspension (bikes, cars, airplanes):
CHEAPER

Rigid frames have no chassis torque? Stop the rear wheel on a dyno; watch what happens.

[RooDog]

Here's a pic of a modern FXST rear caliper installed on an AM rigid frame....
Being a four piston design it negates the need to float anything. Just center the caliper over the rotor with shims/spacers, and lock it down. An anchoring tab needs to be welded to the lower frame tube....Tedd's V-Twin has that piece, # 51-0513, 1987-99 Caliper Mount Strap
https://www2.vtwinmfg.com/right-side-ca ... acket.html

DSC02177.JPG (156.43 KiB) Viewed 848 times

[nanonevol]

I found this groovy brake shown here in mock up.

Note the brace uses a 5/16" piece on each end.
Not sure of the brand but it says "GMG" on the inside. And haven't seen this style pad in my search.

Had to put a spacer in for my 3/4" axle.

So is it good or did I "F" up?
Dot 3,4,5?

[RooDog]

"So is it good or did I "F" up?"


"F" is Forward, U,or ↑ for up.

How about larger pics so we can see what you got?

The caliper & bracket look good. But you do not need the Heim joints on the anchor bar. They may look trick, but they are totally non functional.

Is that a 2 or 4 piston caliper????

[kitabel]

If the caliper is above the axle (on the right side the rotor moves CW etc.), it will pivot forward until something (the frame, attached bracket, other components) stops it. Having the bleeder screw on top helps with air bubbles, so a bracket positioned to do this helps here, but it has nothing to do with the brake's operation. What kind of caliper (clothes pin, thumb and forefinger, Vise-Grip) is irrelevant.
Depending on how the pads are applied (one pad fixed and passive, the opposite side moves with the piston, or both move), the caliper may need to move over to center on the rotor, be sure to allow for this when aligning the mount laterally. A quick scan of the original install tells you what you need.

Heim joints have become similar to lash caps in their frequent recco to no (or bad) effect.
If both components are parallel to the wheelbase (and their bolt or stud shafts parallel to each other), and will remain so during braking, well fitted clevises are more than sufficient. The Heim joint allows for mis-alignment (braking force will try to change the distance between components, resulting in side thrust at one or both ends).

I assure you, the tensile strength of a 5/16" CRS steel rod is many, many times the force applied by the caliper. The same rod will fold like wet Kleenex when used in compression.

[RooDog]

And where is the bleeder screw?

[nanonevol]

Depending on how the pads are applied (one pad fixed and passive, the opposite side moves with the piston, or both move), the caliper may need to move over to center on the rotor, be sure to allow for this when aligning the mount laterally. A quick scan of the original install tells you what you need.

With my mix of parts not necessarily designed to work with each other, and never having attempted this, I simply installed the bracket next to the rotor against an axle spacer chosen to let the rotor and wheel spin while locking said bracket to the axle, with minimal spacing.
I would think, and hope, that the opposing pistons with their pads have some latitude. In other words if on install one pad is closer to the rotor than the other that the brake will still function correctly. (Self-centering?) How much latitude is there I am not sure. If I’ve done something wrong I think it will make itself known!
I’ll put up more photos later. I’ve got a cramped work space between two cars.

[RooDog]

I asked if the caliper is 2 or 4 piston design. If four opposing pistons, then it will, indeed, be self centering in service, but it should be installed as well centered over the rotor as possible.

Your pics are OK just the camera pixel setting is too small, try something around 1.5-2.0 Megapixel....

[nanonevol]

It’s four piston

I’ll replace that brace with flat steel.

[nanonevol]

This little hot rod is nearing completion!
I need to finish the brake (front brake will need to be sorted eventually), cobble an exhaust together (already begun), set the timing and she’s ready for the first kick.

Oh and then I need a headlight and wire the tail light.

[RooDog]

Oh, yeah,. Now the real adventure begins..... Sorting out, finding, and killing the bugs....
But, we're here for you....
....Best Wishes....

[nanonevol]

Thought it was high time I tried kicking this motor over and got some small pops and it even ran for a moment.
Then I thought of the first think I usually read here for bikes that dont start - check for intake leaks.
Well there wasn't even any seal in place! Ordered Peek seals but I'm doing something wrong.
When installed(bevel facing into the nut) the seal seems to cover most of the threads.

[nanonevol]

Okay, managed to thread them on. Now I'll do the bubble leak test and torque appropriately.

[RooDog]

I have been wondering where you have been with this build of late...
...RooDog....

[nanonevol]

Took her out for some photo-ops