Paugho 45 build

[nanonevol]

Thanks for the comments and tips.
Yeah, I have a rear disc with a 51 tooth sprocket. 20 teeth on the crank and 22 on the trans gives me a 4.29 final.
Aluminum heads and Mikuni my initial upgrades.
Yes, keeping the weight down.
I'll knock out a functional cover but it may not be pretty!

[kitabel]

It will be a test of Paughco quality control: do the engine sprocket and clutch drum line up to within a few thousandths?
There is no lateral adjustment for either engine or transmission. However, tiny errors can be fixed by using non-sequential end play collars (24100-26) in the engine.
After that, slotting holes...
Same for transmission sprocket to rear wheel, except here you can grind or shim the axle stack to put the wheel (or sprocket) in the right place.

[nanonevol]

Meanwhile, heres a 2021 Sturgis winner Shovel with open chain primary.

[kitabel]

Losing your pants leg is almost inevitable.
If you drop the bike, you may lose your leg.

[nanonevol]

Turns out the spacing is similar to BT but the mounting method is different.
I think I can make this cover work. Still looking for an outer.

Also scored some forward controls


Far from finished but seeing a flicker of light at the end of the tunnel!

Plan on a hand clutch and expect maybe a hard pull. I see there are gadgets sold that increase leverage.
And there is the Eliminator. How/where does this thing work? Failed to find explanation/pictures online.

[kitabel]

there are gadgets sold that increase leverage, or reduce leverage and increase travel. There is nothing that gives both, but I would use a diaphragm clutch spring.
If you use all 1968-* parts the effort and effect will be the same as any big twin.

[nanonevol]

BTW, Can anyuone tell me what this is?

[RooDog]

It goes behind the foot shifter bracket and mounts the regulator for a nose cone motor. It will not fit your project because of your generator.

Also: Using a big twin clutch behind the 45, you will be able to get by with a lot less clutch than for a BT, fewer discs & plates, and/or, a lot less spring pressure....

[RooDog]

Plan on a hand clutch and expect maybe a hard pull. I see there are gadgets sold that increase leverage.
And there is the Eliminator. How/where does this thing work? Failed to find explanation/pictures online.

[/quote]

Look closely. It attatches to the two oil tank mounting bolts.....

https://search.aol.com/aol/image;_ylt=A ... tion=click

[nanonevol]

Look closely. It attatches to the two oil tank mounting bolts.....

So, no moving parts? Is it just a terminator for the clutch cable? (Seem to be several styles available) How does this eliminate the Mousetrap? In other words, does it help with leverage?

[RooDog]

The cable housing adjuster screws into the bracket, and the movable inner cable interfaces with the short, -68 transmission clutch arm. Just like OEM from 1968-84, Thusley eliminating the Mouse Trap clutch booster mechanism....
Used behind that 45 motor, you should be able to use a lot less clutch than what a Big Twin would require, resulting in a very easy pull hand lever....
....RooDog....

[nanonevol]

Update, several months later. Found a 21" Sportster front wheel. Had to change the bearings for the 17 mm Buell axle and work out the spacers.

Found this no weld oil tank at Lowbrow and adapted a big twin primary cover. Fits fairly well but held on by two screws on the engine at the moment.
Think Ahead! My shift lever is interfering with my carb (Mikuni). Have an offset intake on order that I hope will work. Moves it up.

The mousetrap eliminator cable bracket doesnt work out with the Paugho seat post mount so I made one out of angle iron.
Easy lever pull.

but...Is this the correct clutch arm on the trans? Or I need the short one?
Still lots to do. Install oil pump and plumbing. Brakes. Exhaust, Ignition.
I see there is an alternator available that is smaller, lighter and better than generators. Cheaper too!
https://www.denniskirk.com/v-twin-manuf ... 012935.sku

Bring on the critique!

[RooDog]

You clutch looks good. Should work just fine with that small engine. Foot shifter is OK too.
I would take some time mounting that oil tank so that it is securely supported, you'll be dealing with about 5 1/5 pounds of oil bouncing around in there.

[Mongrel505558]

A shorter clutch arm will give you more throwout bearing travel per handlebar lever pull distance than a long one will, but will be harder to pull. Still, you're not building a restoration, so go with whatever works best for you.

[RooDog]

He's got a 10 spring clutch there. He could maybe even remove half the springs and still have enough pressure to hold that engine.
....RooDog....