Paugho 45 build
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Paugho 45 build
Greeetings!
Soldiering on with this projec though I often feel I'm way over my head. It is one thing to take something apart and reassemble it and quite a different thing to put something new together from parts. Even with manuals.
Working on the drivetrain first.
What's troubling me now is what primary covers will work since this is a hybrid with a 45" "G" engine and a BT 4 speed.
Since I'm using a chain, do I need an oil tight cover? And I'll need a tensioner.
Hopefully there are parts I can modify to make work if needed. A belt would be easier but I'm triyng to use parts on hand.
Thanks in advance.
Soldiering on with this projec though I often feel I'm way over my head. It is one thing to take something apart and reassemble it and quite a different thing to put something new together from parts. Even with manuals.
Working on the drivetrain first.
What's troubling me now is what primary covers will work since this is a hybrid with a 45" "G" engine and a BT 4 speed.
Since I'm using a chain, do I need an oil tight cover? And I'll need a tensioner.
Hopefully there are parts I can modify to make work if needed. A belt would be easier but I'm triyng to use parts on hand.
Thanks in advance.
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Re: Paugho 45 build
I would ask Paughco what they used, and do they sell them.
The BT primary is longer than the 45 between the engine sprocket and transmission shaft, but cutting it down will be tough because the top and bottom are tapered.
he 45 primary is probably not long enough, and IDK if the clutch area is big enough for the BT drum.
No, it need not be oil tight - none of them are prior to aluminum primaries. What I would do: turn off the oiler and use chain spray.
You may want to get damaged, rusty 45 and 1936-54 BT primaries, position them individually, and see if there is any overlap where they could be joined. Pop rivets can look pretty clean if you're careful, plus no warping and can be taken apart.
IMO the 45 front section is more important because it fits the indent in the left case, completely covers the engine sprocket. I've see clutch covers made from hub caps, serving bowls, cake pan etc.
Remember the rear cross shaft goes through.
The BT primary is longer than the 45 between the engine sprocket and transmission shaft, but cutting it down will be tough because the top and bottom are tapered.
he 45 primary is probably not long enough, and IDK if the clutch area is big enough for the BT drum.
No, it need not be oil tight - none of them are prior to aluminum primaries. What I would do: turn off the oiler and use chain spray.
You may want to get damaged, rusty 45 and 1936-54 BT primaries, position them individually, and see if there is any overlap where they could be joined. Pop rivets can look pretty clean if you're careful, plus no warping and can be taken apart.
IMO the 45 front section is more important because it fits the indent in the left case, completely covers the engine sprocket. I've see clutch covers made from hub caps, serving bowls, cake pan etc.
Remember the rear cross shaft goes through.
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Re: Paugho 45 build
Thank you. Good ideas and confirms my concerns.
And considering this will be a bar hopper neighborhood ripper at most i think the chain oil would be fine . So the Solo and WLs didn't run the primary chain in a small reservoir of oil like Brit bikes? Would going coverless be a bad idea? Would still need to put the tensioner somewhere.
I'll call Paugho.
And considering this will be a bar hopper neighborhood ripper at most i think the chain oil would be fine . So the Solo and WLs didn't run the primary chain in a small reservoir of oil like Brit bikes? Would going coverless be a bad idea? Would still need to put the tensioner somewhere.
I'll call Paugho.
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Re: Paugho 45 build
Run it open with a top cover to keep your hands and feet out of it. Use a late Servi-Car tensioner, it bolts to the engine. H-D used drip, not a reservoir for oil in the primary. Shut off the oiler, lube by hand.nanonevol wrote: ↑Tue Feb 22, 2022 12:43 am Thank you. Good ideas and confirms my concerns.
And considering this will be a bar hopper neighborhood ripper at most i think the chain oil would be fine . So the Solo and WLs didn't run the primary chain in a small reservoir of oil like Brit bikes? Would going coverless be a bad idea? Would still need to put the tensioner somewhere.
I'll call Paugho.
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Re: Paugho 45 build
The originals, both 45 and BT, had no tensioners.
The primary tension is done by jacking the transmission back on mounting plate (BT), or on slots in the frame's cradle area (45).
The drive chain is adjusted by moving the axle.
Remember to add length for the tensioner when making the primary chain (probably an odd size anyway).
The chain will find your pants legs if you're not careful.
You also need a landing spot in/under/on the primary bottom surface for your side stand when under way.
The primary tension is done by jacking the transmission back on mounting plate (BT), or on slots in the frame's cradle area (45).
The drive chain is adjusted by moving the axle.
Remember to add length for the tensioner when making the primary chain (probably an odd size anyway).
The chain will find your pants legs if you're not careful.
You also need a landing spot in/under/on the primary bottom surface for your side stand when under way.
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Re: Paugho 45 build
45 stands stop against the leg pivot casting and do not stop against the primary cover. So no cover is needed for them to work properly, with a custom stand all will have to be figured out. The stock late Servi tensioner looks very similar to a Sportster version and bolts on the two threaded holes where the inner primary mounts.
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Re: Paugho 45 build
I use this with my open belt primary.RUBONE wrote: ↑Tue Feb 22, 2022 6:41 am 45 stands stop against the leg pivot casting and do not stop against the primary cover. So no cover is needed for them to work properly, with a custom stand all will have to be figured out. The stock late Servi tensioner looks very similar to a Sportster version and bolts on the two threaded holes where the inner primary mounts.
https://www.denniskirk.com/drag-special ... D_BwE[list][/list]
Replaces the tab on the top of the jiffy stand and can be adjusted. Does a great job.
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Re: Paugho 45 build
Rubone, I see that you mention the sportster chain adjuster. I can't find any dimensions to compare the servi and sportster adjuster. Do you know anyone who used the sportster one on a servi? There is a lot of difference in the price.
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Re: Paugho 45 build
Paugho does not make covers for my application. Their best suggestion is buy their belt drive.
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Re: Paugho 45 build
If you have access to good sheet metal work, a pleasant-appearing (but not authentic) cover can be made from a mixing bowl, a hub cap, and an assortment of flat stock. The embossed diamond may be salvaged from a junk cover and added for extra points.
Does you slide plate have slots for adjustment?
Does you slide plate have slots for adjustment?
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Re: Paugho 45 build
This
https://www.paughcoparts.com/products/4 ... 82fc&_ss=r
$hould $olve all your problems....
Then you will need a Big Twin disc brake rear wheel so that you may dial in the sprocket ratio needed for this build....
....RooDog....
https://www.paughcoparts.com/products/4 ... 82fc&_ss=r
$hould $olve all your problems....
Then you will need a Big Twin disc brake rear wheel so that you may dial in the sprocket ratio needed for this build....
....RooDog....
Last edited by RooDog on Sat Jul 02, 2022 6:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Paugho 45 build
Here's a Chopcult thread from someone mating a 45 to a BT 4-speed:
http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25472
Doesn't really address your primary issue, but interesting reading and there are others out there doing what you're doing.
Jim
http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25472
Doesn't really address your primary issue, but interesting reading and there are others out there doing what you're doing.
Jim
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Re: Paugho 45 build
Interesting what people can do with a little skill and perseverance.....
....RooDog....
....RooDog....
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Re: Paugho 45 build
Very interesting remarks on the link.
with the 4 speed and stripped down bike you can ride with big twins, I noticed about 15-20 mph more than the stock 45 solo
1st. the weight saving is something like 50 lbs (the BT parts are heavier), or 10% of the assembled bike, which adds this much to the top speed: zero. Acceleration in low gear is up somewhat. With a stock G engine (21 hp?) the extra gear does nothing, the bigger 1st adds 21% to off the line torque.
2. again, again: a 4-speed adds this much to the top speed vs a 3-speed: zero.
with the 4 speed and stripped down bike you can ride with big twins, I noticed about 15-20 mph more than the stock 45 solo
1st. the weight saving is something like 50 lbs (the BT parts are heavier), or 10% of the assembled bike, which adds this much to the top speed: zero. Acceleration in low gear is up somewhat. With a stock G engine (21 hp?) the extra gear does nothing, the bigger 1st adds 21% to off the line torque.
2. again, again: a 4-speed adds this much to the top speed vs a 3-speed: zero.