photo

[RooDog]

No doubt the bean counters overruled logic & reason.....
They were also sand cast, no?
And the later covers, with the two access openings, were die cast....

[Mongrel505558]

No doubt the bean counters overruled logic & reason.....
They were also sand cast, no?
And the later covers, with the two access openings, were die cast....

Yes. Sand cast. And porous.

[chop1543]

When I picked up my '68 my thought was that I would restore it as all original. It had a Custom Chrome oil pump and chrome primary cover with removable derby cover, and a few other aftermarket items that were wrong for the year. The most obvious discrepancy is the paint job, but I took a liking to it. I've since replaced most incorrect items, but this is as far as I think I can go. Note that I don't have the true dual exhaust anymore, the jugs are black, and I have an S&S carb on it. But it runs great. To be correct I also need a Tillotson carb, but it runs so well with the S&S that I hate to change it. Also, I believe white walls were standard for the year, but I like black walls because with a chain drive whitewalls don't stay white for long. So this is about as far as can go given my budget and compromises with rideablilty. That's why I said I'll never have a 100 point bike.

That's a nice ride, too. IMHO, stay away from a Tillotson. They didn't call those things "firestarters" for nothin'! Had a fire in mine when I ran the Tillotson years ago. I don't know how many shovelheads I've seen over the years with the paint burned off the underside of the tanks. I'll be putting a Bendix on mine!

[Mongrel505558]

When I picked up my '68 my thought was that I would restore it as all original. It had a Custom Chrome oil pump and chrome primary cover with removable derby cover, and a few other aftermarket items that were wrong for the year. The most obvious discrepancy is the paint job, but I took a liking to it. I've since replaced most incorrect items, but this is as far as I think I can go. Note that I don't have the true dual exhaust anymore, the jugs are black, and I have an S&S carb on it. But it runs great. To be correct I also need a Tillotson carb, but it runs so well with the S&S that I hate to change it. Also, I believe white walls were standard for the year, but I like black walls because with a chain drive whitewalls don't stay white for long. So this is about as far as can go given my budget and compromises with rideablilty. That's why I said I'll never have a 100 point bike.

That's a nice ride, too. IMHO, stay away from a Tillotson. They didn't call those things "firestarters" for nothin'! Had a fire in mine when I ran the Tillotson years ago. I don't know how many shovelheads I've seen over the years with the paint burned off the underside of the tanks. I'll be putting a Bendix on mine!

Thanks. I wasn't aware of the fire starter reputation. I guess if I don't keep the S&S on it I'll run a Bendix I have.

[RooDog]

Wow! One should never use the words FIRE and HARLEY in the same sentence.....
Very bad Ju-Ju...
....RooDog....

[RUBONE]

I ran Tillotsons for years on a variety of bikes, worked on tons more equipped with them, and today is the first time I've ever heard of any fire issues with them. Sounds like operator error and urban legends to me.

[chop1543]

I ran Tillotsons for years on a variety of bikes, worked on tons more equipped with them, and today is the first time I've ever heard of any fire issues with them. Sounds like operator error and urban legends to me.

Might be what it sounds like, but it's not. I remember riders hanging a bent paper clip on or near those carbs. They were used to "tickle" the gas inlet lever that rested against the diaphragm. If that lever wasn't set to close off the gas flow, ( a tricky operation, at best) the carb would leak, so people used to set them up "tight", and then use the clip to allow gas to flow to start the bike. Once it started, the air flowing through the venturi would allow the lever to remain open.

[RooDog]

Yep, tickling some Tillotsons was a necessity, especially if allowed to run outta gas, like forgetting to turn the petcock on.

And, Jim, if you were to install one on the '68, you'll need the second, balance/vent, line from the carbby to the tank, or atmosphere, somewhere for that Tilly to fuel flow properly.....
....RooDog....

[panhead_kicker]

I've run my '69 with the Tillotson for 8 years now, never had to "tickle" it, and it's never leaked fuel. Been a great all around carb actually, once installed correctly AND used properly. Ran down to Bloomington one day , me and my brother in the sidehack. HOT 90 some degrees out, bike didn't miss a lick. Parked for a bit then started bike back up, ran very poorly , missing badly. Then I remembered reading a service bulletin that said to use the choke on a hot motor to clear bubbles from fuel line. Gave it half and it smoothed right out.

[Mongrel505558]

Yep, tickling some Tillotsons was a necessity, especially if allowed to run outta gas, like forgetting to turn the petcock on.

And, Jim, if you were to install one on the '68, you'll need the second, balance/vent, line from the carbby to the tank, or atmosphere, somewhere for that Tilly to fuel flow properly.....
....RooDog....

The FSM shows the vent line running up to a tee between the two tanks' top vent hose nipples. That's where I would go with it if I were to try one of these carbs.

[RooDog]

That would work if there is room enough for the hardware....RD...

[chop1543]

I remember when those bikes were new and I was hanging out at the local dealership in Lexington, Kentucky. The bottom half of the tanks actually being wrinkle painted, but of a very fine texture. It was still rough enough that when wax got on it the white residue tended to stay and stay.
Another turd from the MoCo....
....RooDog....

Hey, RooDog, I'm sorry I never got back to you about the paint question, but I'm curious as to this comment about wax residue staying on the wrinkle finish. That implies to me that the wrinkle area was not clear-coated. Am i right in that asssuption?

[RooDog]

That is correct. Wrinkle paints are not clear coated. That would defeat the purpose, no?
At that time, cash registers, and other business machines were often wrinkle finished, The cervices procedure was to use something like oil based "Old English brand Furniture Polish", or Red Oil
Also, I remember reading the label on a can of factory paint saying to cut it with turpentine for spraying. Now, that is some weird advice for automotive paint....
....RooDog....