Oil Pressure Gauge Fitting Chrome

[DaCs]

Im trying to install a oil preassure gauge but also use the oil preassure switch. Anybody has already use the V-Twin 37-8964 Oil Pressure Gauge Fitting to use both systems? it fit on a 1961 panhead oil pump? V-twin mention "all" but just want to be sure not to lose money



Regards

[Sarre]

The ones I've seen don't have the right thread for OEM panhead pressure switch (but I haven't had a VTWIN in my hands, the fact that the specs are not given makes me hesitate), so my guess is you will have to use a later model pressure switch with 1/8"-27NPT thread. Since I don't know a proper pressure switch that switches at low PSI I haven't upgraded yet, but I want to, so hope someone chimes in to tell us which switch to get

My pump accepts 1/8"-27npt btw, so probably the previous owner of my bike had that changed.

[Andygears]

In my humble opinion, don’t waste your time. The gauge will read so low when hot that you will worry. A gauge and sending unit shaking around on the small original thread in the oil pump will crack the fitting at the threads at the most in opportune time. And a chromed V-twin fitting with three threaded areas make me shudder at the chances of all three threads being machined and chromed properly so the chrome doesn’t flake off at the threads, cause leaks and just be a problem.

As said, just my opinion, get an original sending unit and a light and relax.

Andygears

[RooDog]

I'm with Andy on this one.....
The MoCo saw fit, as did Detroit, not to use a gauge because the readings would cause the customers and service departments undue grief, and that has worked successfully for years until the latest H-Ds which do , in fact, have oil pressure problems with their sometimes faulty internal cam plates.
Use a light and don't sweat the petty stuff....

That particular OP fitting is listed in the Evo section of the catalog, it screws into the motor case on an Evo. and I would strongly suspect that it will not easily retrofit back to an iron pump.
It is also available "polished" to avoid the potential of flaking chrome....

....RooDog....

[Mongrel505558]

IMO, the gauge is good for verifying that you have oil pressure when you first start up a new motor rebuild (or rebuilt oil pump). It's cleaner than loosening up a fitting (if you have outside oilers) to the heads to watch the oil flow out all over your new clean motor. You can also look into the oil tank to verify oil is returning, but you may not have a clear line of sight, in which case look for bubbles in the oil and a rising level in the tank. After that you might as well pull the gauge and thread a plug into the hole. These motors require volume more than pressure. The first time I ran a gauge it read zero pressure after I'd been riding for a good while. I was concerned so I pulled over and loosened the fitting at the rear rocker box (shovel). Plenty of volume of hot oil flowed out all over the place. The gauges don't really do any harm (other than maybe psychological), but not much good either and are another point of failure where oil can leak. I don't really believe they're very accurate anyway. I have one on my pan for now because I'm in and out of the motor for various reasons, and it reads 10 psi without the motor running. It's soon going into the trash can.

[RooDog]

Smart assed comment deleted by this author.....
....RooDog....

[DaCs]

Thank you all for your opinion. I did not think to put the gauge but the idea that came to me is that the engine was completely rebuild, I already started and I have not had it on for more than 1 or 2 minutes working and the light does not turn off. My fear is already driving the bike and that damage will arise due to not having the oil pressure, that is why I wanted to anticipate any failure. I already checked the forum, I changed the metal ball of the pump for a new one (other users tell me that in some other post) but the light still does not turn off. I don't know if maybe I should keep it running longer, handle it and wait if with use the pressure gradually increases, what could I check to see if the light goes out? I already checked the electrical installation

[blewcrab]

look into the oil tank for circulation .....or stick your finger in there and feel for oil squirting out the return port

[RooDog]

First, remove the oil switch and kick the engine over to see if oil comes out the switch's mounting hole.
if good, then reinstall the switch, disconnect the wire, turn the key on, if the light stays on you have an electrical problem.
Start the motor and see if oil is returning to the tank. If so, I would suspect the switch, if no returning oil, then I would look to the pump....
....RooDog....

[Andygears]

I’m with Roo on this one, do that. And note I had a brand new V twin oil pressure switch that was junk and discovered before it ran, my local Indy dealer replaced it but the new one was too high pressure, lite came on a lot. I put an original switch on and it works correctly, that is, “at low idle, when hot, gets a little blink” so pick up the idle a bit and it goes out.

[DaCs]

I check oil switch, it's fine. Start engine and oil return. I check oil pump and put new spring and ball. I think I hace a problema with relief vale, does anyone know how I could remove it? I believe it have movement but only up to the middle of the duct and there it gets stuck, I push to send to the bottom.

[RooDog]

Remove the switch and apply air pressure there to blow the plunger out. Be sure to leave the plug screwed in at least two threads, with no spring, so the plunger doesn't get sent into orbit..... And wear eye protection....
....RooDog....

[DaCs]

Since the valve comes out, would it be advisable to sand the pump conduit a little so that the relief valve moves correctly or just change the valve for a new one?

[RooDog]

Well, one would need to determine where the problem lies. Is it the piston/plunger or the bore? My bet would be to hone the bore just a little, and see how that works out for you.....
....RooDog...

[DaCs]

Ok, what tool you recomend ? jeweler round file?