Oil Pressure Gauge Fitting Chrome
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Re: Oil Pressure Gauge Fitting Chrome
A piece of fine emery spun with a drill motor. I would think you only need to cleanup, polish, the bore, not remove any metal, no?
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Re: Oil Pressure Gauge Fitting Chrome
It is probably just the stiction from the oil holding it in, and a like mine to be a semi snug fit, so i would not sand or file on a oil pump for any reason if it is that bad you need a new pump.Is the pump new?
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Re: Oil Pressure Gauge Fitting Chrome
Update of my problem:
I turned it on and let it run for 10 minutes, the oil light blinked more subtly, I suppose that my doubt about whether there was oil pressure or not has been corrected.
My problem now is that it leaks oil through the crankcase sprock and I can't solve it, seal is new and I already did the following:
-Check the crankcase oil scren OK
-I checked the relief valve, it was dirty and stuck halfway OK
-Loosen the belt tension OK
-It had a closed chain oiler screw, I opened it several more turns OK
What it could be the problem?
I turned it on and let it run for 10 minutes, the oil light blinked more subtly, I suppose that my doubt about whether there was oil pressure or not has been corrected.
My problem now is that it leaks oil through the crankcase sprock and I can't solve it, seal is new and I already did the following:
-Check the crankcase oil scren OK
-I checked the relief valve, it was dirty and stuck halfway OK
-Loosen the belt tension OK
-It had a closed chain oiler screw, I opened it several more turns OK
What it could be the problem?
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Re: Oil Pressure Gauge Fitting Chrome
What's up with the chain oiler screw if you have a primary belt?
What is the oil level in the tank on the dip stick?
What is the oil level in the tank on the dip stick?
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Re: Oil Pressure Gauge Fitting Chrome
It was closed because I had read that it would close if change to belt was made. Now I found some opinions that I should open it to release oil pressure. The oil level in the tank is correct, when the assembly was done, will I have left a lot of oil in the crankcase? I tried to remove the drain screw that is at the bottom left but it does not come out as all because it interfere with the frame, maybe a longer one was also placed or I do not know if it is normal for users do not remove.
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Re: Oil Pressure Gauge Fitting Chrome
First thing, don’t try to remove the drain screw at the bottom of the case. It rarely clears the frame and is easily stripped out trying to reposition.
Second, we need to know what arrangement you have on the left side. A picture would be great. Is the breather hooked up to a hose? How do you know the oil is leaking from the crank and not the breather pipe? How about the oil tank? Stock? With stock breather pipe to the oil tank?
Lastly, how did the problem start and why? If you confirmed oil “pressure” And confirmed oil “return” then breathing is likely incorrect and not vacuuming out the oil under the flywheels causing a leak.
Andygears
Second, we need to know what arrangement you have on the left side. A picture would be great. Is the breather hooked up to a hose? How do you know the oil is leaking from the crank and not the breather pipe? How about the oil tank? Stock? With stock breather pipe to the oil tank?
Lastly, how did the problem start and why? If you confirmed oil “pressure” And confirmed oil “return” then breathing is likely incorrect and not vacuuming out the oil under the flywheels causing a leak.
Andygears
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Re: Oil Pressure Gauge Fitting Chrome
If you have a Primary Belt Drive.....
Item 1) This screw for the front chain oiler needs to be closed, It is a controlled leak on the feed side, and has nothing to do with either oil pressure, or oil scavenging and/or returning oil to the tank. It could be used as a rear chain oiler if you have the vent line run away from the primary and aimed toward the rear chain. Item 2) Your vent breather pipe needs to be directed away from the primary housing. Oil on a belt drive ist verboten!
If this is redundant information, so be it....
....RooDog....
Item 1) This screw for the front chain oiler needs to be closed, It is a controlled leak on the feed side, and has nothing to do with either oil pressure, or oil scavenging and/or returning oil to the tank. It could be used as a rear chain oiler if you have the vent line run away from the primary and aimed toward the rear chain. Item 2) Your vent breather pipe needs to be directed away from the primary housing. Oil on a belt drive ist verboten!
If this is redundant information, so be it....
....RooDog....
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Re: Oil Pressure Gauge Fitting Chrome
Thanks RooDog, yes, that was the configuration I had, chain oiler screw closed and breather pipe directed away from the primary housing.
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Re: Oil Pressure Gauge Fitting Chrome
Hi, AndyAndygears wrote: ↑Thu Sep 02, 2021 12:33 pm First thing, don’t try to remove the drain screw at the bottom of the case. It rarely clears the frame and is easily stripped out trying to reposition.
Second, we need to know what arrangement you have on the left side. A picture would be great. Is the breather hooked up to a hose? How do you know the oil is leaking from the crank and not the breather pipe? How about the oil tank? Stock? With stock breather pipe to the oil tank?
Lastly, how did the problem start and why? If you confirmed oil “pressure” And confirmed oil “return” then breathing is likely incorrect and not vacuuming out the oil under the flywheels causing a leak.
Andygears
Ok, I wont remove drain screw. My left side its like Roodog second picture, with breather away from the primary housing.
I removed crankcase sprock and saw leak over there. It leaks after kickstart.
Oil tank is stock with breather pipe to oil tank.
It start after rebuild and run engine.
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Re: Oil Pressure Gauge Fitting Chrome
And oil still runs out from behind the motor pulley?
Sorry ,but tell me again, tapered or splined motor shaft.
In the engine I pictured, the tapered shaft only has the OEM reverse screw threaded spacer to redirect the oil back into the engine, and I have no apparent leakage there.
Splined shafts may be fitted with a rubber seal and spacer to hold the oil in.
So the question becomes is the bottom end flooded with so much oil that it ovecomes whatever sealing there is at the crank. Is your scavenger pump working properly, or more likely, the breather valve is either not timed correctly, or needs to be opened up per typical hot rod fashion, to help evacuate the excess oil from the crankcase. In short, it seems to me your bottom end is flooded with oil.....
Do a search for "Breather Timing". There is a lot of information on the subject....
....RooDog....
Sorry ,but tell me again, tapered or splined motor shaft.
In the engine I pictured, the tapered shaft only has the OEM reverse screw threaded spacer to redirect the oil back into the engine, and I have no apparent leakage there.
Splined shafts may be fitted with a rubber seal and spacer to hold the oil in.
So the question becomes is the bottom end flooded with so much oil that it ovecomes whatever sealing there is at the crank. Is your scavenger pump working properly, or more likely, the breather valve is either not timed correctly, or needs to be opened up per typical hot rod fashion, to help evacuate the excess oil from the crankcase. In short, it seems to me your bottom end is flooded with oil.....
Do a search for "Breather Timing". There is a lot of information on the subject....
....RooDog....
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Re: Oil Pressure Gauge Fitting Chrome
Im using splined motor shaft as your picture, with threaded spacer and redirect the oil to back engine. Seal is new with spacer.RooDog wrote: ↑Thu Sep 02, 2021 6:43 pm And oil still runs out from behind the motor pulley?
Sorry ,but tell me again, tapered or splined motor shaft.
In the engine I pictured, the tapered shaft only has the OEM reverse screw threaded spacer to redirect the oil back into the engine, and I have no apparent leakage there.
Splined shafts may be fitted with a rubber seal and spacer to hold the oil in.
So the question becomes is the bottom end flooded with so much oil that it ovecomes whatever sealing there is at the crank. Is your scavenger pump working properly, or more likely, the breather valve is either not timed correctly, or needs to be opened up per typical hot rod fashion, to help evacuate the excess oil from the crankcase. In short, it seems to me your bottom end is flooded with oil.....
Do a search for "Breather Timing". There is a lot of information on the subject....
....RooDog....
Do you recomend try to remove drain screw from crankcase to see if there an excess of oil? or maybe another method?
Breather time its timed correctly.
Regards
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Re: Oil Pressure Gauge Fitting Chrome
Im using splined motor shaft as your picture, with threaded spacer and redirect the oil to back engine. Seal is new with spacer.
Do you recomend try to remove drain screw from crankcase to see if there an excess of oil? or maybe another method?
Breather time its timed correctly.
Regards
[/quote]
My engine has the tapered motor shaft. Yours is splined and with a seal the spacer that should be smooth for the seal to bare upon, not threaded.
Your breather may have the timing marks properly aligned, but the cutout in the case may benefit by being enlarged and blueprinted to correct and maximize the timing.
It has already been mentioned about that drain plug on the left bottom of the case. Did you not understand what Andygears had to say about that?
Do you recomend try to remove drain screw from crankcase to see if there an excess of oil? or maybe another method?
Breather time its timed correctly.
Regards
[/quote]
My engine has the tapered motor shaft. Yours is splined and with a seal the spacer that should be smooth for the seal to bare upon, not threaded.
Your breather may have the timing marks properly aligned, but the cutout in the case may benefit by being enlarged and blueprinted to correct and maximize the timing.
It has already been mentioned about that drain plug on the left bottom of the case. Did you not understand what Andygears had to say about that?
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Re: Oil Pressure Gauge Fitting Chrome
Sorry RooDog, sometimes I do not correctly translate all technical terms, spelling checker change what I write, maybe theres my mistake, sorry about that.
Let me resume what I understand:
My spacer Its incorrect? or my seal shouldnt be threaded ? case came with a threaded seal that I changed with a same new one.
Abou the breather, I align timing marks as manual say, do you you mean to enlarge the holes that this have?
I understand what Andy say, not to remove that drain plug and its not possible because of the frame, but If there is a lot of oil in the crankcase, is there a way to remove it (other than the drain plug)? or just wait for it to leak by kickstarting or remove some oil from tank to reduce that extra?
Thanks
Let me resume what I understand:
My spacer Its incorrect? or my seal shouldnt be threaded ? case came with a threaded seal that I changed with a same new one.
Abou the breather, I align timing marks as manual say, do you you mean to enlarge the holes that this have?
I understand what Andy say, not to remove that drain plug and its not possible because of the frame, but If there is a lot of oil in the crankcase, is there a way to remove it (other than the drain plug)? or just wait for it to leak by kickstarting or remove some oil from tank to reduce that extra?
Thanks