Oil Pressure Gauge Fitting Chrome

[DaCs]

I finally opened the gearcase. The alignment was correct, even so I decided to change the oil breather valve for the one I had already mentioned that I found. I did the same as Roodog, enlarge some holes in the mesh and remove the clip. I put it down and re-aligned everything.
Tomorrow I will start bike just to see if oil leak again on primary.

It may be a silly question, but in the hole of the orange arrow, when removing the gearcase cover, there was oil running. Is it normal for oil to run when removing the gearcase cover? Or should the pump be restricting that oil flow until the bike is working? I put a piece of paper towel to restrict a little while working.



Another perhaps silly question, when removing the pushrods I put my finger through the holes in the head to check if there was oil, the front felt completely dry and the back a little more greasy but very little. Is it normal or am I also having a problem with it? I do not know if the oil is running top end and the solid pushrods do not feel oiled or that the oil passes down them.

This was the first breather valve, I removed.




And this is the final alignment

[Mongrel505558]

How loud is your top end? If you weren't getting oil up there you would soon know it. You said your bike is a '61? Your oil gets upstairs through a passage in the right side of each cylinder. It also returns to the crankcase through a passage on other side of the cylinder. Some oil may return through the pushrod tubes, but that's not the primary path, so if the pushrod tube holes feel dry it doesn't necessarily mean oil isn't getting up there. If you had '63 or later with outside oilers you could just loosen a fitting with the motor running and verify oil is getting up to the heads (messy, but effective). For 62 and earlier it's easy to tell with the heads off. Spin the engine a few times with the kicker pedal and oil will start to flow from the oil passage at the top of the cylinder. If your bike is like many panheads, you probably have leaks at the pan gaskets. Usually at the lowest points like above the front exhaust port and the same location in the rear cylinder. That's a sure sign that oil is getting up there - especially if you have breather problems.

[nifty]

DaCs

Re "It may be a silly question, but in the hole of the orange arrow, when removing the gearcase cover, there was oil running. Is it normal for oil to run when removing the gearcase cover? Or should the pump be restricting that oil flow until the bike is working? I put a piece of paper towel to restrict a little while working"
There are no silly questions, with early pumps there will be oil from tappet oil galleries and rocker feed drillings in cylinders which will drain from that gasket hole. should stop after a while, if continues to drain tank your pump check valve has failed and sump will eventually fill with oil, but with original side oiler in good condition usually takes a long time.

When engine running did breather dump a lot of oil on floor? (clearing oil flooded crankcase will do this)

When engine running can you actually see oil returning to tank? (Remove tank cap & look towards where return oil pipe enters oil tank)

If no oil returning probable sheared key in oil pump or drive.

With your cover off, in bottom of gearcase is the oil pump drive gear, when engine kicked over you should see that both the gear and its shaft rotate together (if the key here fails you lose feed & return oil)

With engine stopped, is the "vent" pipe and crankcase fitting able to pass air free & clear in both directions between oil tank & gearcase of engine? (during piston downstroke vent pipe briefly shunts breather air pressure inside gearcase to oil tank, during piston upstroke the vent pipe air flow briefly reverses)

With engine stopped, is the the breather pipe/hose free & clear back to separation chamber?
The oil/air separation chamber is the gasket-sealed small compartment at lower left looking into your camcase
The drilling leading to breather outlet is in below & behind the removable baffle & screen.

If you don't have a degree wheel, early manuals gave a linear method of of checking
Breather Timing from 48-57 Service Manual
Breather times with front cylinder- opens 1/8” BTDC to 1/8” ATDC – closes 13/16” to 1-5/16” ABDC
good luck!

Nifty

[nifty]

Made boo-boo, only caught it after editing closed.

The entry leading to breather outlet is the open end of separation chamber stand-pipe (pipe above the removable baffle & screen).
Behind this stand-pipe is the drilling to breather outlet.

BTW when you removed clip from breather, did you reposition the strainer to cover window and weld screen/strainer in place, before you drilled alternate holes?

The breather you swapped out appears to be -73 which retrofit earlier, if it is -73 spec it would be my choice to use, MoCo did away with clip & spot welded screen, thereby exposing more holes and increasing flow).
Stock displacement street ridden engines don't need crankcase breather window "ported"/opened up.

If you hold cam in with finger and gently kick engine over, if crankcase is full of oil, lots of oil should be thrown out of breather window. If you continue to kick for a while the quantity of oil should decrease (this is normal and means the oil quantity in flywheel cavity is resuming "normal".

Breather air blows the oil out, This "blown oil" is how the flywheel cavity/crankcase is emptied of oil and how the gearcase gets lubricated by oil blown all over every part, but primarily aimed at cam & tappet rollers.

Nifty

[DaCs]

Hello, I had been a bit missing and I had not been able to do mechanic on my motorcycle but here I leave some updates about my case.
First, I realized that by loosening the screw of the oil pump that regulates the oil lubricant in primary, it stops draining oil in my front sprock, I think it is obvious why it loses pressure. If I left that screw completely closed, it would make a big puddle.

Has anyone had experience using an oil collector? perhaps thinking of putting it in the drainage of the oil breather and this avoiding the puddle that is made when it falls to the ground.

Maybe it sounds silly or illogical but I am not very expert on these issues but, would it work or is there that the timer screw in the crankcase works as a vent?

Regards

[nifty]

DaCs
Are you saying :
You screw the primary oil adjuster in until if closes off ?
Doing this causes oil pressure to increase?

Nifty

[DaCs]

DaCs
Are you saying :
You screw the primary oil adjuster in until if closes off ?
Doing this causes oil pressure to increase?

Nifty

Yes, if I loose oil primary adjuster stop leaking in front sprocket area, it just drips down the new tube that redirects the oil from the primary to floor.

[nifty]

DaCs
Are you also saying:
Crankcase oil is going through the engine bearing behind the sprocket (sprocket bearing) ?
This crankcase oil is passing through primary covers and then coming out of the lower fitting and its pipe ?

To be losing a lot of oil through sprocket bearing points to "wet sumping", this was mentioned to you earlier.

What is your first language, I presume Spanish? I see your flag is Spain.

Is there anybody out there reading this who can communicate better with DaCs??

Nifty

[Mongrel505558]

DaCs
Are you saying :
You screw the primary oil adjuster in until if closes off ?
Doing this causes oil pressure to increase?

Nifty

Yes, if I loose oil primary adjuster stop leaking in front sprocket area, it just drips down the new tube that redirects the oil from the primary to floor.

It sounds like what Nifty said - that you're wet sumping. When you loosen the primary oil adjusting screw you are allowing another path for the oil to go, diverting it from your crankcase. Is the return side of your oil pump working correctly? Are the return gears or pump body damaged? You shouldn't be accumulating that much oil that fast in your crankcase.