I have. Can't see much difference between them and the other vendors in terms of delivery time, etc. I have no complaints about them, anyway.
Rebuild engine from boxes
Requesting advice
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Re: Rebuild engine from boxes
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Re: Rebuild engine from boxes
Thanks Mongrel. Always good to hear such experiences etc.
Had a moment to look closer at Vital international shipping.
USPS small packet starts at $40 however this service is still suspended.
DHL shipping starts at $99
Purchases over $200, basically you buy the item then they tell how much shipping is. I'm finding it hard to get inspired.
I can do so much better elsewhere, both with cost of item and cost of shipping. OK if I get desperate I suppose...
Had a moment to look closer at Vital international shipping.
USPS small packet starts at $40 however this service is still suspended.
DHL shipping starts at $99
Purchases over $200, basically you buy the item then they tell how much shipping is. I'm finding it hard to get inspired.
I can do so much better elsewhere, both with cost of item and cost of shipping. OK if I get desperate I suppose...
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Re: Rebuild engine from boxes
Cruising along with this build with progress made in a number of areas.
Heads are ready for final assembly.
Crank roller sets arrived a couple of days before Christmas. All ready to give to the machinist shop next year, after holidays.
Shocks turned up and look good.
I subsequently discovered swingarm is bent in more ways than one. Firstly I straightened it so both arms are parallel. Now I just need solve both legs are bent to the right. I get 9" dead between the 2 legs whereas book measurement is 9.17"..
In pic, see how far out of square to pivot it is. How does this sound for a plan?
Bolt the pivot end to something really solid. Clamp on a length of 4x2 timber to each leg in turn, bend them in direction they need go a little bit at a time until legs are square and 9.17" between the pair is achieved. The hope is it bends in the same place it got bent so effectively it ends up back in its' original position.
Great hear words of wisdom, anyone who's done it or comments of interest. Thanks.
Yep, this bike has had one hell of a beating. It's survived long periods of being unloved.
Heads are ready for final assembly.
Crank roller sets arrived a couple of days before Christmas. All ready to give to the machinist shop next year, after holidays.
Shocks turned up and look good.
I subsequently discovered swingarm is bent in more ways than one. Firstly I straightened it so both arms are parallel. Now I just need solve both legs are bent to the right. I get 9" dead between the 2 legs whereas book measurement is 9.17"..
In pic, see how far out of square to pivot it is. How does this sound for a plan?
Bolt the pivot end to something really solid. Clamp on a length of 4x2 timber to each leg in turn, bend them in direction they need go a little bit at a time until legs are square and 9.17" between the pair is achieved. The hope is it bends in the same place it got bent so effectively it ends up back in its' original position.
Great hear words of wisdom, anyone who's done it or comments of interest. Thanks.
Yep, this bike has had one hell of a beating. It's survived long periods of being unloved.
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Re: Rebuild engine from boxes
Your plan is sound.....
I have straightened several frames on an automotive body shop frame straightening rack/table, They all were easy to bend with the big hydraulic rams on that machine. I made all my pulls cold, no heat was applied anywhere on the MCs' frames. The trick, and most difficult part of doing all this I tieing the frame down solidly to the table, and getting a hold of the frame to apply pressure without creating more damage. Careful use of chains to secure the frame is OK,but don't use a chain on a frame tube to pull as the chain will dent the tubing. All that has nothing to do with your plan other than to say that once you have the center of the swingarm securely tied down, and a long lever fastened to the arm it will surprise you how easy it will be to bring them back into square and get the correct inside measurement. Make small adjustments, and gauge you work often.
It is the installed rear wheel & axle that makes the final assembly rigid on the motorcycle.
Best wishes.....RooDog....
PS: I believe I would secure the last several inches of each arm, up to just forward of the shock mount, one at a time, and then using a 3/4" bar through the bearings, apply my bending force to the center of that rear fork. It will be easier to do that way than to try anchoring the center and pulling the arms. Again, work slowly, and check your progress often. You may have to over correct as the work piece will want to spring back a little when you relieve the pressure....
I have straightened several frames on an automotive body shop frame straightening rack/table, They all were easy to bend with the big hydraulic rams on that machine. I made all my pulls cold, no heat was applied anywhere on the MCs' frames. The trick, and most difficult part of doing all this I tieing the frame down solidly to the table, and getting a hold of the frame to apply pressure without creating more damage. Careful use of chains to secure the frame is OK,but don't use a chain on a frame tube to pull as the chain will dent the tubing. All that has nothing to do with your plan other than to say that once you have the center of the swingarm securely tied down, and a long lever fastened to the arm it will surprise you how easy it will be to bring them back into square and get the correct inside measurement. Make small adjustments, and gauge you work often.
It is the installed rear wheel & axle that makes the final assembly rigid on the motorcycle.
Best wishes.....RooDog....
PS: I believe I would secure the last several inches of each arm, up to just forward of the shock mount, one at a time, and then using a 3/4" bar through the bearings, apply my bending force to the center of that rear fork. It will be easier to do that way than to try anchoring the center and pulling the arms. Again, work slowly, and check your progress often. You may have to over correct as the work piece will want to spring back a little when you relieve the pressure....
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Re: Rebuild engine from boxes
I have never straightened a frame but how about mounting the the swingarm down on a steel plate with "U-Bolts" through the plate, leaving the end of the swing are hang off the end of the plate so you can pull on the ends to straighten?
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Re: Rebuild engine from boxes
No twist & symmetrical L/R relationship of arms to pivot when you're done.
Nifty
Nifty
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Re: Rebuild engine from boxes
Thanks everyone for the thoughts. Much appreciated.
I managed to get the swingarm straight. I made a sturdy bracket. I slowly worked the bends out a bit at a time, checking frequently.
Initially I used eye-ometer to assess twist then confirmed it using v-blocks set up on my old saw bench top.
Bracket for holding swingarm while straightening... Testing for twist Very satisfying to save this part.
Next jobs. Test fit swingarm, shocks & wheel. Rear chain alignment. Assess/remedy rear fender struts alignment. Fab trans adjuster
I managed to get the swingarm straight. I made a sturdy bracket. I slowly worked the bends out a bit at a time, checking frequently.
Initially I used eye-ometer to assess twist then confirmed it using v-blocks set up on my old saw bench top.
Bracket for holding swingarm while straightening... Testing for twist Very satisfying to save this part.
Next jobs. Test fit swingarm, shocks & wheel. Rear chain alignment. Assess/remedy rear fender struts alignment. Fab trans adjuster
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Re: Rebuild engine from boxes
ExCal..../
You did a great job of tieing it down solidly, that was the key to the whole operation. That swing arm then was easy to bend, like peanut butter, no?
Good Job.....RooDog....
You did a great job of tieing it down solidly, that was the key to the whole operation. That swing arm then was easy to bend, like peanut butter, no?
Good Job.....RooDog....
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Re: Rebuild engine from boxes
Thanks. Getting there.
I turned attention to how the gearbox mounts. The base plate is fabricated. There's marking out lines and sign of hand finishing.
The rear mount holes have been slotted as some after thought, perhaps chasing belt alignment?
Worst hole is 0.452" oval so that gives 0.077" bolt side clearance. I could doctor these holes if deemed necessary/worthwhile??
The frame threads at this location are rather loose. Current plan is to ensure maximum thread engagement with ideal length bolts. If they pull out with sensible torque applied, then I'll deal with the fix.
I turned attention to how the gearbox mounts. The base plate is fabricated. There's marking out lines and sign of hand finishing.
The rear mount holes have been slotted as some after thought, perhaps chasing belt alignment?
Worst hole is 0.452" oval so that gives 0.077" bolt side clearance. I could doctor these holes if deemed necessary/worthwhile??
The frame threads at this location are rather loose. Current plan is to ensure maximum thread engagement with ideal length bolts. If they pull out with sensible torque applied, then I'll deal with the fix.
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Re: Rebuild engine from boxes
The studs and nuts holding the tranny down on its plate are subject to substantial forces when the motor accelerates. Same with the bolts holding the plate to the frame. I'd try to firm this area up as best as possible and maybe consider finding or fabricating another plate. Since it's a shovel I'll assume that unless you run an open belt primary you will have the cast inner chain case and cover. This will add some rigidity.Excalibur wrote: ↑Tue Dec 28, 2021 11:58 am Thanks. Getting there.
I turned attention to how the gearbox mounts. The base plate is fabricated. There's marking out lines and sign of hand finishing.
The rear mount holes have been slotted as some after thought, perhaps chasing belt alignment?
Worst hole is 0.452" oval so that gives 0.077" bolt side clearance. I could doctor these holes if deemed necessary/worthwhile??
The frame threads at this location are rather loose. Current plan is to ensure maximum thread engagement with ideal length bolts. If they pull out with sensible torque applied, then I'll deal with the fix.
gbp.jpg
Jim
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Re: Rebuild engine from boxes
Ok, agreed, I'll fix the slotted holes. Am going to achieve primary chain alignment before determining exactly where to put the weld.
Made the gearbox adjuster, especially for the belt drive... Needed because I'm getting rid of the fugly cut-down inner primary.
Made the gearbox adjuster, especially for the belt drive... Needed because I'm getting rid of the fugly cut-down inner primary.
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Re: Rebuild engine from boxes
ExCal....
Here is my commercial adjuster installation. Perhaps some longer front studs are in order.....
....RooDog....
Here is my commercial adjuster installation. Perhaps some longer front studs are in order.....
....RooDog....
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Re: Rebuild engine from boxes
I used serrated flange nuts for those two studs so I could capture more of the studs' threads.
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Re: Rebuild engine from boxes
Thanks guys. Well that's interesting, I have my gearbox adjusters assembled with studs facing forward. Seems like it will work, so not worried.
Kitted the rear brake master cylinder. Then I mock assembled the forward controls. Multiple issues, not surprising I suppose. It's home made. Rose joint link is too short. Rubber boot doesn't fit. Brake pedal pad sits too high. It's a wonder it worked.
Spare brake lever. One thought is to remake bracket to suit this.
Shifter rubber is directly above footpeg. So, footpegs are in the ideal place so shifter pivot needs moving.
Pondering over the way forward. Logically I should look at well thought out forward controls and model off them. This stuff looks easy, then you go to make it. Then you realize all about leverage, ergonomics, etc.
Please post any pics, comments, ideas. No need to re-invent, just need to identify a setup that works...
Kitted the rear brake master cylinder. Then I mock assembled the forward controls. Multiple issues, not surprising I suppose. It's home made. Rose joint link is too short. Rubber boot doesn't fit. Brake pedal pad sits too high. It's a wonder it worked.
Spare brake lever. One thought is to remake bracket to suit this.
Shifter rubber is directly above footpeg. So, footpegs are in the ideal place so shifter pivot needs moving.
Pondering over the way forward. Logically I should look at well thought out forward controls and model off them. This stuff looks easy, then you go to make it. Then you realize all about leverage, ergonomics, etc.
Please post any pics, comments, ideas. No need to re-invent, just need to identify a setup that works...
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Re: Rebuild engine from boxes
Here's the GMA shift lever assembly on my panhead. It's pretty easy to use. The pivot point is closer to the front of the bike than what you show. You could use a longer lever, but then you'll require more travel to shift gears, which is kind of a pain going up through the gears (assuming FL shift pattern). Perhaps you can modify a shift lever bracket by cutting and re-shaping it with the pivot in a more forward position.
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