Panhead Wiring

[58bob]

On a typical wiring diagram, for example '48 to '55 Standard, the generator/relay appears to be live with a wire running directly from the same pole on the ignition switch that's wired from the battery. Is there a reason for this??

I'm currently fitting a standard 2 pole ignition switch (early shovel) and need to know if I can re-wire the gen so that it is now a 'switched' terminal.
Main reason is the bike doesn't get used for some time and its nice to know my battery is still intact (12v system).

[RooDog]

The regulator B terminal needs to go directly to the + post on the battery. Are you using a charging indicator , idiot, light?
A two post switch? One is for the Batt, the other, Run, no? If you attach the genny wire to the run side of the switch, the engine will continue to run even with the switch off and the key removed. LOL, and that is not a good idea....

I strongly recommend a Battery Tender for all motorcycles, especially one that only sees occasional service.
....RooDog....

[1950Panhead]

On a typical wiring diagram, for example '48 to '55 Standard, the generator/relay appears to be live with a wire running directly from the same pole on the ignition switch that's wired from the battery. Is there a reason for this??

They may have wanted a direct route from gen to battery.
I moved the gen wire to the switched terminal while working on an electrical problem, the engine runs when you turn switch off as coil has power.

[58bob]

Roodog,
Thanks for the reply.
I'm using a Cycle Electric generator. Yes the 'B' terminal goes directly to the battery via the No.1 position on the ignition switch....which also has a direct wire to the battery.
Yes, 2 light dash, has a generator light.
Yes, the new switch is a 2 position switch.

I think I've had a light bulb moment......I kept thinking the red wire from the battery was the feed to the generator, not so, its the charging wire to the battery, yes?
The power to the gen is switched, its the black wire passing through the gen dash light......is this correct??....Hope so.

[RooDog]

I don't understand the two position switch. an FL has a 5 terminal switch with an off, run, & lights, plus an accessory/parking light position. The GEN light is wired thusly: Ign switch run position to one wire of the light, the other wire from the light goes to the armature,"A" terminal on the genny. That light is not grounded, it grounds through the Genny until the genny is putting out enough voltage to overcome the Batts power, and then the light goes out.
Hope this helps....

[awander]

The wire from the generator "A" terminal is, as you have surmised, the charging wire.

It passes through the relay, so unless your relay sticks closed, the generator will be disconnected when the bike is not running.

No way for the battery to discharge.

[RooDog]

Andy, it's a 12 volt system with a Cycle Electric genny, surely there is a regulator and not a cut out relay....

[awander]

Yes, I didn't catch that it was a 12V system.

But all electro-mechanical regulators include a cutout relay and a voltage-regulating relay, if a 2-unit regulator.

A 3-unit regulator would add the third, current-regulating, relay.

If it is a solid-state regulator, then this does not apply. I'd be surprised, though, if there was any appreciable current flow from the battery through a solid-state regulator, when the bike is not running.

[RooDog]

The GEN light comes on in the run position because the ARM is grounding the light, and goes off once the genny is putting out more voltage that what's in the battery. There is no current flowing with the switch OFF.
Solid state, or mechanical it goes through the A terminal on the genny. It's really quite simple....
....RooDog....

[RooDog]

On a typical wiring diagram, for example '48 to '55 Standard, the generator/relay appears to be live with a wire running directly from the same pole on the ignition switch that's wired from the battery. Is there a reason for this??

I'm currently fitting a standard 2 pole ignition switch (early shovel) and need to know if I can re-wire the gen so that it is now a 'switched' terminal.
Main reason is the bike doesn't get used for some time and its nice to know my battery is still intact (12v system).

What are you calling an "Early Shovel"?
All Shovelheads into the mid 1970s used a 5 terminal switch in the dash.

[flatheadDave]

I installed one of these snap relays on my Panhead chopper. Armature wire straight to the battery. Eliminates all that extra crap!

[RooDog]

Will it work with a Cycle Electric 12 Volt generator?

[58bob]

Thank you all for the reply’s, has been most informative to me.
Roodog,
The new ignition switch is a HD part for 73 to 85 FX models.....and others including some Evo’s.
My wiring is a much simplified version of the original 5 pole switch, I have no accessories or park lighting, just power in/gen, 1st click powers everything else as per the diagram, 2nd click powers the same plus lights.
So this is what I’ve based the new switch on.
This bike is well modified, was never built to be anything other than what I want so very early on I came across a 6 into 4 Baker trans, it has an electronic speedo sensor thus making the standard cable driven speedo (repo) redundant. I now wish to modify the gas tanks (repo) to eliminate the speedo/dash hence the questions about wiring, hope this helps.

[flatheadDave]

Will it work with a Cycle Electric 12 Volt generator?

Of course it will work. It will eliminate the generator light though. Which I think is what your going for anyways. My pan is 6volt... Yours is 12 volt though... not sure if there is a 12 v version of this!

[RooDog]

58Bob....
OK, we are now on the same page. You threw me a curve with "two position switch". it is actually three positions, as you explained: Off, Run, & Run + Lights, 3 pos....
My '68 Shovelhead has gone way beyond ever returning to stock, and my Big Red Evo, never was stock. LOL....
....Best Wishes.....RooDog....