Samwell auto-advance ignition module

[awander]

I have my idle rpm set at 900 rpm so no damage to the rod bearings going on there . Retarding at a stop with auto advance must happen or the idle stays way high like 2000 rpm. Idle is set at the retard position of timing. Also starting is easier in the retard position.

You should set your idle RPM with the timing fully advanced.

The only time you may need to retard the timing is as you say, when starting.

Harley literature also mentions when hauling a heavy passenger or sidecar up a steep hill.

But there is no reason to retard the timing at a stop light.

[RooDog]

Hauling a heavy load, for sure....

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[Sarre]

1) You should set your idle RPM with the timing fully advanced.

2) But there is no reason to retard the timing at a stop light.

1) Agreed for points, that's how I do it at least, oh and wouldn't let the engine run at an idiotic low idle. But as @socalrider wrote; with the auto-advance you have to set your idle while it is auto-retarded. There is however a setting on this unit (position zero) in which the circuit breaker base plate rotation can be used to manually retard/advance the electronic ignition, just like points.
2) According to many the engine runs a bit cooler when retarded. The auto-advance unit doesn't retard it as much as you can do manually, just a bit (based on your rpm, lower rpm more retard = twice as slow).

[awander]

Ahh yes, I am still thinking of manual retard/advance.

[Sarre]

The enrichener is a separate starting circuit. It is constant. The accelerator pump only gives one shot per twist of the throttle It is also adjustable for volume per squirt. $&$ advises that it be only just enough to avoid a hesitation when accelerating, and no more. It can even be turned off completely. The enrichener is usually fully applied, and the throttle left fully closed while cold staring, and then they both may be then adjusted until the engine stabilizes. On my big bike my $&$ enrichener goes from fully on to fully off within a few seconds of starting.
....RooDog....

Since I'm riding the pan I've tried two things with that S&S:
1) adjust the accelerator pump to the point of hesitation; my bike doesn't hesitate when the accelerator pump is off, but does accelerate better/more fiercely when accelerating with the pump. Factory = 2 turns out, I'm at around 1 turn out now. If the bike is off, and I turn the pump it doesn't squirt, but creates a puddle.
2) try to cold start it with the accelerator pump, and that does not work.

So I start the bike by priming it with 2 kicks, then retard 1/2 way and kick it with the enricher on. The bike usually starts right up, and then I immediately go to full advance, and turn off the enricher; bringing the rev up a tiny bit with the throttle.

Now about that auto-advance module:

After many hours and at least 4 days of tinkering with it; I'm back to points. Bike starts as described above, sometimes a first kicker and sometimes a second kicker. I will report back when I have revised the circuit breaker, so we know if it was the culprit or not. This proves to me the reliability of points though

[DaCs]

I have a problem with my v-tronic. It's hard for me to turn it on, it's on time. Once on, if I move to any of the maps (1-9) it stalls and turns off if I don't keep it speeding up, it only works on map 0, what could it be?

[socalrider]

Weak battery ?

[Mongrel505558]

Hauling a heavy load, for sure....

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The passenger should be on the flatbed just ahead of the bike.

[DaCs]

Full charged battery

[kitabel]

A more powerful coil will allow a wider plug gap without misfire.
Otherwise, the coil only supplies enough voltage to fire the plug.

[59Panman]

My Quikstart 2000 was working fine when my Yuasa battery of 10 years dropped a cell. Running with 10 volts. Don't know how long I had been running with only 10V?

[Sarre]

@DaCs Thank you for reading this this topic. I saw your post on the ignition module.

I will post an update here today or tomorrow since I have some new experience with this device, and will reply to your question in your topic.

[dontsink]

I had a samwell ignition module in service, a few month ago the engine starts to misfire under load. Swapped it for a quickstart 2000 module with no improvement. After all, both modules had no issues, it was the coil which died.

[Scrap]

I have electronic ignition in an older Triumph. Had bad missfire. All the tests checked out including coil resistance. After much trying, new coils fixed it.

[Sarre]

Hey guys, in my case its a fresh good working coil.

I have done the following: changed the circuit breaker base plate for an OEM one that had no lateral play, installed the electronic ignition and gave it a shot. After finding the right procedure it turned out to start relatively easily and predictable and it ran sweat in the garage for a short duration. I based the timing (crank mark) on the setting I had for the points. So that was good news. Here is a vid of one of the first start/run moments.



Down the road the engine quickly became hot, and it backfired through the carb. Meaning I most likely have to figure out the right setting for the timing mark on the crank. With points I prefer to have it slightly advanced, most likely this is too advanced for the electronic ignition. According to oldtimer Cotton this definitely can cause it to overheat, just like retarded timing can.

I think I'm almost there, hopefully next season.

And at risk of repeating myself, over-advanced timing will overheat a motor dramatically.
The sooner the combustion, the longer it remains within the combustion chamber.
Late timing allows combustion to continue as it goes out the pipe, discoloring it of course, but transferring less heat to the motor (and less power as well!)

....Cotten