Fuel valve unknown and leaking

[Lowbikemike]

Early and Late fuel valves. Later style is on right in both pictures. Uses straight line with rubber insert.

Nice PEEK tips on those rods!

Yep, one is already in service and hopefully the older style will see fuel soon. The other might rot before my buddy gets his project running, lol.

[RooDog]

No doubt the MoCo went to the rubber insert, compression fitting, to combat a vibration induced cracking problem. An inherent flaw in an all metal fuel or oil delivery system....
....RooDog....

[Andygears]

Hdmarcus! Get rid of that beat up nut/fitting and hope it has not damaged the bottom of the tank. With original pan tanks selling for $1000 or so, spending $100-$200 for all new parts should be a no brainer. Not to mention the fire danger of a leak.

My two cents
Andygears

[hdmarkus]

Andy,

you are right. I will remove the homemade version.....

Kind regards
Markus

[Raytag]

Early and Late fuel valves. Later style is on right in both pictures. Uses straight line with rubber insert.

Wondering what thread it is ?
7/16-27 ?
Both the same size ?

Thanks
ray

[hydra74]

straight line with rubber

[awander]

Early and Late fuel valves. Later style is on right in both pictures. Uses straight line with rubber insert.

Wondering what thread it is ?
7/16-27 ?
Both the same size ?

Thanks
ray

The fitting thread on the early valve does appear to be 7/16" diammeter, not sure of the pitch.

The later one is 1/2" diameter-it is hard to measure the pitch, but a standard compression cap seems to fit, which is 20 TPI thread.

[Raytag]

Thanks Awander,

I guess it is a non-issue to most here but I`m asking myselves which compression nut to use once you have an oem shut-off rod and eg a Dellorto carb attached and you need to assemble the fuel line on your own? My limited experience with american stuff is that your safety-standards reg fuel lines is alot higher than eg european gear.
In a nutshell: A pitch of 20 is not what I expected.

Thanks
Ray

[awander]

Hi Ray:

This stuff was designed way before they had any real safety standards-hell, the manuals tell you to use gasoline as a parts cleaner.

When I measured one of the "late" style valves, I wrote down that I thought the threads on the compression connector were 24TPI, but I also seem to remember that I was able to thread a standard 5/16" compression line fitting over it, and the standard ones are 1/2-20.

[Andygears]

Andy,

you are right. I will remove the homemade version.....

Kind regards
Markus

Good, my friend Jim, (Rocket Chapter AMCA) paid big money for a set of ‘49 original tanks and they had a groove/notch in the face of the tank fitting. He pirated a donor tank for the fitting with sheet metal around it, Billy Lane (yes, that one) had the alignment tool and took days to weld in the piece, little at a time. Not an easy fix.

Preserve those old parts!

Andygears

[hdmarkus]

That is a good picture but the wrong valve, he needs a '50 up rubber sealed type for his '55.

If you insist, here is rubber.

Hi,

today I got the new parts from W&W. The fuel line give me some headache. Is it possible to get a picture from the carburetor side, where the line is connected to the fuel strainer?

Thanks
Markus

[hydra74]

Is it possible to get a picture from the carburetor side, where the line is connected to the fuel strainer?

[hdmarkus]

Thank you very much......!

Best regards
Markus

[hdmarkus]

Hi,

just one question.

Can the fuel-line lie against the cylinder or must a distance be maintained here?

Thanks Markus

[Bone Head]

Hi,

just one question.

Can the fuel-line lie against the cylinder or must a distance be maintained here?

Thanks Markus

No, I wouldn't want to do that. I think you'd be setting yourself up for vapor lock.