Fixing the "Instant Reserve" Fuel Valve
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Fixing the "Instant Reserve" Fuel Valve
In addition to re-tipping fuel shutoff rods with PEEK, I recently had the opportunity to make and install a seat and a bushing for a valve that had neither.
I wanted to post some of the particulars here in case someone else wants to give it a try.
It was relatively straightforward to measure the IDs of the valve body, and I had a few complete valves to measure also,so I got a good idea of the dimensions that were needed for both parts.
I obtained some Aluminum Bronze round bar, and had a go. Here is my first attempt(they look a little rough, as the photo was taken after they were removed from the valve body):
Unfortunately, when installed in the valve body, the shutoff rod did not seal against the seat.
Looking at the valve assembly and shutoff rod, with no seat installed, showed that the tip of the rod was not exactly centered on the valve body. So, I figured I would need to install an undrilled seat, and drill and countersink it in place. To accomplish this, I made up a couple of "tool" bushings, to fit snugly in the upper diameter of the valve(where the shutoff rod bushing gets installed), and with through holes to fit a drill, a long center Drill,and the other end of the long center drill, which I ground to make a 90-degree countersink "D" bit.
This seemed to work fine-when I was done, the hole through the seat was quite off-center, so i installed the rod bushing, and tried it out.
Unfortunately, this one leaked as well. It seemed as if the installation of the actual rod bushing did not align the bushing exactly the same way as the temporary "tool" bushings I had used.
I removed the "off-center" seat and bushing-here is what they looked like, along with the tool used to drill and countersink the seat:
Here are a few other seats I tried, and as you can see, it looks like my countersink tool was not centering up very well on them:
FInally, I decided to make a tool that would cut the countersink, using the installed rod bushing instead of a "tool" bushing that would then be removed.
This is what the tool looked like-again, a simple "D" bit, with a 90 degree end, made from drill rod, relieved, hardened and tempered.
This one worked!
The valve body with new seat and bushing, along with the PEEK-tipped shutoff rod, are now on their way back to their owner.
I wanted to post some of the particulars here in case someone else wants to give it a try.
It was relatively straightforward to measure the IDs of the valve body, and I had a few complete valves to measure also,so I got a good idea of the dimensions that were needed for both parts.
I obtained some Aluminum Bronze round bar, and had a go. Here is my first attempt(they look a little rough, as the photo was taken after they were removed from the valve body):
Unfortunately, when installed in the valve body, the shutoff rod did not seal against the seat.
Looking at the valve assembly and shutoff rod, with no seat installed, showed that the tip of the rod was not exactly centered on the valve body. So, I figured I would need to install an undrilled seat, and drill and countersink it in place. To accomplish this, I made up a couple of "tool" bushings, to fit snugly in the upper diameter of the valve(where the shutoff rod bushing gets installed), and with through holes to fit a drill, a long center Drill,and the other end of the long center drill, which I ground to make a 90-degree countersink "D" bit.
This seemed to work fine-when I was done, the hole through the seat was quite off-center, so i installed the rod bushing, and tried it out.
Unfortunately, this one leaked as well. It seemed as if the installation of the actual rod bushing did not align the bushing exactly the same way as the temporary "tool" bushings I had used.
I removed the "off-center" seat and bushing-here is what they looked like, along with the tool used to drill and countersink the seat:
Here are a few other seats I tried, and as you can see, it looks like my countersink tool was not centering up very well on them:
FInally, I decided to make a tool that would cut the countersink, using the installed rod bushing instead of a "tool" bushing that would then be removed.
This is what the tool looked like-again, a simple "D" bit, with a 90 degree end, made from drill rod, relieved, hardened and tempered.
This one worked!
The valve body with new seat and bushing, along with the PEEK-tipped shutoff rod, are now on their way back to their owner.
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Re: Fixing the "Instant Reserve" Fuel Valve
That was my oem fuel valve seat that Andy repaired. Like the other three he did for me ,it works PERFECTLY! Done at a very reasonable price.i am one happy man!finally after 35 years of owning this bike,no more of the problems associated with leaky petcocks.
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Re: Fixing the "Instant Reserve" Fuel Valve
So to fully understand, you cut the seat successfully with a drill rod long enough to be guided by the top-of-tank hole, thru the new bushing and cut the seat? And the other attempts were hampered by not enough "alignment length" to cut the seat accurately? Looks like a great job, I may try to duplicate it.
Thanks, great post!
Andygears
Thanks, great post!
Andygears
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Re: Fixing the "Instant Reserve" Fuel Valve
Hi Andy:
Yes, that's correct.
My previous attempts had not used the actual, installed fuel rod bushing as a guide for the seat-cutting tool.
Once I did that, i had success.
Note also, that I had one seat that was leaking between the seat itself and the valve body. This occurred even though I had bored and reamed the spot where the seat was pressed in.
The last seat I made was about .001" larger in diameter overall than the reamed diameter where it would be installed, but I also left an approximately .010"-high x .010"-wide "band" on it's OD, which gave me a good seal once it was pressed into place.
Yes, that's correct.
My previous attempts had not used the actual, installed fuel rod bushing as a guide for the seat-cutting tool.
Once I did that, i had success.
Note also, that I had one seat that was leaking between the seat itself and the valve body. This occurred even though I had bored and reamed the spot where the seat was pressed in.
The last seat I made was about .001" larger in diameter overall than the reamed diameter where it would be installed, but I also left an approximately .010"-high x .010"-wide "band" on it's OD, which gave me a good seal once it was pressed into place.
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Re: Fixing the "Instant Reserve" Fuel Valve
So, I read your post too quickly, andygears.
I didn't use the top-of-tank hole, just the seat itself, with it's installed rod bushing.
Heck, I didn't even have a tank in the same building.....
I didn't use the top-of-tank hole, just the seat itself, with it's installed rod bushing.
Heck, I didn't even have a tank in the same building.....
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Re: Fixing the "Instant Reserve" Fuel Valve
Impressive, thanks for the visuals and the well composed instructions.
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Re: Fixing the "Instant Reserve" Fuel Valve
Thanks Andy, when I saw the long drill rod, I assumed, then rethought, and asked.
I have tried lapping in the seat in my AM valve seat in a lathe with lapping compound and almost got it. I finished by turning a larger knob with an offset setscrew to clamp on the top of the tank. Not original but my fat fingers always had trouble loosening the OEM knob in that small recess. The larger knob allows me to tighten tighter and loosen more readily, but I suspect it may be doing harm in too much push against the bottom of the tank. This seems like the better method and will incorporate in the future.
Thanks,
Andygears
I have tried lapping in the seat in my AM valve seat in a lathe with lapping compound and almost got it. I finished by turning a larger knob with an offset setscrew to clamp on the top of the tank. Not original but my fat fingers always had trouble loosening the OEM knob in that small recess. The larger knob allows me to tighten tighter and loosen more readily, but I suspect it may be doing harm in too much push against the bottom of the tank. This seems like the better method and will incorporate in the future.
Thanks,
Andygears
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Re: Fixing the "Instant Reserve" Fuel Valve
Hi Andy:
If it "almost seals" now, then a PEEK tip will almost certainly fix it. The PEEK flexes, very slightly, but enough to correct a small amount of misalignment/fit.
Do you have a lathe? I've found that the best way to re-tip the rods is to clean out the hole in the end of the fuel rod(after removing the metal tip, of course), turn a small spigot on a piece of 3/8" PEEK, cut the PEEK off in the lathe to approx. finished length, press the PEEK into the end of the fuel rod, then chuck up the fuel rod in the lathe and turn the PEEK to final dimensions.
This keeps the PEEK as concentric with the rod as possible. I also use a collet chuck, which is more accurate than my 3-jaw, and easier to use than a 4-jaw chuck.
If it "almost seals" now, then a PEEK tip will almost certainly fix it. The PEEK flexes, very slightly, but enough to correct a small amount of misalignment/fit.
Do you have a lathe? I've found that the best way to re-tip the rods is to clean out the hole in the end of the fuel rod(after removing the metal tip, of course), turn a small spigot on a piece of 3/8" PEEK, cut the PEEK off in the lathe to approx. finished length, press the PEEK into the end of the fuel rod, then chuck up the fuel rod in the lathe and turn the PEEK to final dimensions.
This keeps the PEEK as concentric with the rod as possible. I also use a collet chuck, which is more accurate than my 3-jaw, and easier to use than a 4-jaw chuck.
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Re: Fixing the "Instant Reserve" Fuel Valve
I have some PEEK and a lathe, and I'm not afraid to use it!
Seriously, my big knob clamps the rod down and probably moves the sheet metal on the tank bottom slightly and effects a tight seal now, but long term may not be the best solution. I will try the PEEK when I can free up some time.
Thanks,
Andygears
Seriously, my big knob clamps the rod down and probably moves the sheet metal on the tank bottom slightly and effects a tight seal now, but long term may not be the best solution. I will try the PEEK when I can free up some time.
Thanks,
Andygears
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Re: Fixing the "Instant Reserve" Fuel Valve
I just realized (5 years later) that what you suspect about the tight valve pushing out the sheet metal on the bottom of the tank will not happen.Andygears wrote: ↑Fri Jul 06, 2018 12:29 am I have some PEEK and a lathe, and I'm not afraid to use it!
Seriously, my big knob clamps the rod down and probably moves the sheet metal on the tank bottom slightly and effects a tight seal now, but long term may not be the best solution. I will try the PEEK when I can free up some time.
Thanks,
Andygears
The fuel valve rod screws into the valve body, which is itself attached to the sheet metal bottom of the tank. No matter how hard you screw down the valve, the only pushing taking place is between the threads in the top of the valve body, and the valve seat in the bottom of the valve body.
Now, if you screw it down REALLY hard you may have problems with the threaded section on the rod itself moving. From what I recall, the threaded section of the rod is a separate piece that is pushed on over a knurled section of rod.