Reverting back to a mouse trap

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Blackattack300
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Reverting back to a mouse trap

#1

Post by Blackattack300 »

Hi
I have a dropsaddle frame panhead with a 3 inch open belt primary. I want to put a mouse trap back on it
I have just purchased a complete working one to install ,
( not arrived yet ) , but will I need to change the clutch operating arm that the mouse trap linkage rod connects to ?
Thanks
Ed
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Re: Reverting back to a mouse trap

#2

Post by Andygears »

It all depends on what arm you have now. If it's the short mousetrap eliminator arm, like 1968 and up, then yes that arm won't work. Best to take pictures and we will figure which arm you need.

Andygears
Blackattack300
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Re: Reverting back to a mouse trap

#3

Post by Blackattack300 »

Ok I'll take a picture of it.
If I need to change it , is it a easy swap over ?
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Re: Reverting back to a mouse trap

#4

Post by doc308 »

No, it's not difficult. It should be a direct swap out.
Blackattack300
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Re: Reverting back to a mouse trap

#5

Post by Blackattack300 »

Here's some links to pictures. Let me know if they work.
Sorry photobucket won't work for me
X9JxVUm.jpg
w8ZGT13.jpg
b7FEf6m.jpg
yNeMY2c.jpg
Which Is the one I need ?

Image

Image
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Last edited by Blackattack300 on Thu Oct 12, 2017 11:35 am, edited 2 times in total.
Blackattack300
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Re: Reverting back to a mouse trap

#6

Post by Blackattack300 »

Also
This speedo and dash. Is it a correct match.
X0Qgc6N.jpg
JOE hunt

bbMrs0m.jpg
r6M9NKG.jpg
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Re: Reverting back to a mouse trap

#7

Post by RUBONE »

The long clutch arm is correct for a mousetrap. Your pictures show something that may interfere though. Can't tell if it is a homemade rear chain guard or what it is but it is in the way. The dash is '61-'64 footshift type. The Joe Hunt mag is just a Joe Hunt mag. Never original on anything.
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Re: Reverting back to a mouse trap

#8

Post by Blackattack300 »

Thanks.
I mocked up the mouse trap. Yes there is a home made chain shield down there. I'm guessing the gear box leak annoyed the guy that built it.

66Ls9j2.jpg
QPluQV6.jpg
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Last edited by Blackattack300 on Sat Oct 14, 2017 3:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Blackattack300
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Re: Reverting back to a mouse trap

#9

Post by Blackattack300 »

Also , I'm not sure what year it is. Being so modified over the years. Found these numbers. Do they say it's a 58 model. ?
4GGFsZC.jpg
miQ49XD.jpg
z4mcSqF.jpg
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Re: Reverting back to a mouse trap

#10

Post by panhead »

If you place your links in these brackets:

Code: Select all

[img]picture[/img]
or click on the icon then the picture is shown.


img.jpg
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Re: Reverting back to a mouse trap

#11

Post by Doc37W »

Those numbers are for the forgings. Used on all '58 to '64 step-down frames (and beyond to E '70). You might look at the top motor mt, right side next time you have the tanks off, for a factory date code (a letter & a number) that should be stamped there. The letter is for the month, i.e.; A=Jan., B=Feb., C=Mar., etc. The number is for year, i.e.; 8= '58, 9= '59, 0= '60, 1= '61, etc. Also, after L '61 a security code was stamped on the left side of the neck near the top of the bulge in the forging leading down to the front down tube. A single punch mark means it's '58 to M '61. If you have 2 punch marks (known as "a snake bite) at the top of the bulge, then just below it should be a letter and 4 numbers about 1/8" tall. A= L '61-'62, B= '63, C= '64. (Some years have more than one letter). That should help narrow down what year your frame is. Doc
Blackattack300
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Re: Reverting back to a mouse trap

#12

Post by Blackattack300 »

Thanks. I see.
The 58 marking is the first year that frame design was built.?
I looked at my 83 wide glide and my friends 81 FXE and both had the number 73 on it.

The tanks will come off soon I'll look.
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Re: Reverting back to a mouse trap

#13

Post by Speeding Big Twin »

Ed, welcome to the forum. Re the frame, forging number 47653-58 was on the lower left rear for 1958 models thru about early-70 models. Notice the loop for the brake line is incorporated into the forging. Just above the loop it looks like a bracket has been attached to the downtube to help support the oil tank. Keep an eye on that area because the downtube on these frames sometimes cracked and H-D later introduced a gusset plate as a repair part (#47261-68) to fix the problem. (The gusset was attached to the downtube as original for mid-68 and later frames.)

For later-1970–early-73 the forging number was 47654 65. (I don’t know why the suffix was 65 instead of 70 but that’s what happened.) These have a different loop for the brake line and it doesn’t really look incorporated; instead it looks more like a welded-on piece and it is higher up than before. This loop was still present for early-73 although it wasn’t used due to 73 having a disc brake.
As of mid-73 the forging number became 47654-73 and the brake line loop was not present. Around later-1980 the number became 47654-73A.

On the lower R-H side, forging number 47651-58 was used for 1958–early-73. As of mid-73 it changed to 47652-73.

Up high on one side of the steering head you may find forging number 47591-35 or XE-35F. On the other side you may find other markings such as forging hallmark DIF which will look like it is inside a square. Next to it may be a die number which may be anywhere from high-20s thru high-30s.

Just out of curiosity, what number is stamped on the engine? Serial number looks like it begins with 49?

And is there something wrong with one of the teeth on the rear pulley?
Eric
Blackattack300
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Re: Reverting back to a mouse trap

#14

Post by Blackattack300 »

Thanks for that info.
The rear belt drum has some original locking screws there.
49fl. On the cases.
I worked that one out. And would love its original rigid frame. But this is how I got it.
Blackattack300
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Re: Reverting back to a mouse trap

#15

Post by Blackattack300 »

Sorry they are rivets.
BYScXSl.jpg
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