Linkert Restoration
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Linkert Restoration
A few years ago, I chose my nicest M74-B and tore it down for restoration. Rebuilding a Linkert in decent shape amounts to a good cleaning and refinishing of the parts, and not much more. The throttle shaft bushings are fine on this example, no groove in the bore from the throttle plate, no wear on any moving parts.
So I simply disassembled it and sent the small parts out in a batch for cadmium plating……
A restoration of a Linkert means repainting the body black, as originally installed on the motorcycle. The hardest part about painting a carburetor body is the masking, which took me a couple hours. It's important to use a good qualit6y professional grade automotive masking tape……..
I needed a way to support the carb for painting, so I drilled a ¾” hole in a chunk of glu-lam left over from building the Cycle Barn…….
It’s nice weather here, so I set up in my outdoor paint booth…..
Painting with a foo-foo can is easy- just follow the instructions. Here’s the paint I used- VHT Epoxy, Semi-Gloss……
After letting the paint cure for a week, I was ready to assemble. So I got out a few of the small parts and things I had acquired over the years. I’d forgotten that I bought some stuff from Into The Wilderness- even though in the end, I didn’t use any of it except a new nozzle spring and crush washer……
By far, the most difficult task in a rebuild is setting the float height. I got out a new Durable float, and began the process of setting the float height…..
It took several tries to achieve the correct float height- the float arm was previously bent in an offset downward, and I needed to change the offset upward so the top of the float is level and ¼” from the top of the bowl, all the way around. It took me a long time to get it exactly perfect, but in the end I was very satisfied with the results. You may be able to see the slight offset to left, as well. The spec is 3/64"-1/16"......
Once the float is set, the rest is a simple task of installing a few small parts- no big deal. Anyone with an inkling of mechanical inclination can rebuild a Linkert.
I had intended to use new throttle and float disk screws from ITW, but they weren’t the same round-head screws as original, they were fillister head screws. They would work fine, of course, but I wanted to stay all original, so I cleaned up the original screws on my brass-wire wheel and reused them. Blue Loctite on them, of course.
So here’s my restored carburetor, ready to install on the motorcycle……
So I simply disassembled it and sent the small parts out in a batch for cadmium plating……
A restoration of a Linkert means repainting the body black, as originally installed on the motorcycle. The hardest part about painting a carburetor body is the masking, which took me a couple hours. It's important to use a good qualit6y professional grade automotive masking tape……..
I needed a way to support the carb for painting, so I drilled a ¾” hole in a chunk of glu-lam left over from building the Cycle Barn…….
It’s nice weather here, so I set up in my outdoor paint booth…..
Painting with a foo-foo can is easy- just follow the instructions. Here’s the paint I used- VHT Epoxy, Semi-Gloss……
After letting the paint cure for a week, I was ready to assemble. So I got out a few of the small parts and things I had acquired over the years. I’d forgotten that I bought some stuff from Into The Wilderness- even though in the end, I didn’t use any of it except a new nozzle spring and crush washer……
By far, the most difficult task in a rebuild is setting the float height. I got out a new Durable float, and began the process of setting the float height…..
It took several tries to achieve the correct float height- the float arm was previously bent in an offset downward, and I needed to change the offset upward so the top of the float is level and ¼” from the top of the bowl, all the way around. It took me a long time to get it exactly perfect, but in the end I was very satisfied with the results. You may be able to see the slight offset to left, as well. The spec is 3/64"-1/16"......
Once the float is set, the rest is a simple task of installing a few small parts- no big deal. Anyone with an inkling of mechanical inclination can rebuild a Linkert.
I had intended to use new throttle and float disk screws from ITW, but they weren’t the same round-head screws as original, they were fillister head screws. They would work fine, of course, but I wanted to stay all original, so I cleaned up the original screws on my brass-wire wheel and reused them. Blue Loctite on them, of course.
So here’s my restored carburetor, ready to install on the motorcycle……
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- Former member
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2789
- Joined: Tue Dec 18, 2007 2:10 pm
- Bikes: 1941/59 EL
1952 FL
1977 FLH
1994 Fatboy - Has thanked: 22 times
- Been thanked: 110 times
Re: Linkert Restoration
Thanks for the kind words, guys.
I guess I forgot to mention that I just put it together yesterday. I mainly wanted to show that anyone can restore a carburetor- as long as it doesn't have serious issues. Replacing the throttle shaft bushing is probably the most common repair, as that's about the only moving parts. It's easy to do, and all you need is a $20 ream.
Now, shrunken venturii and grooved bores- those are repairs best left for the experts.
I guess I forgot to mention that I just put it together yesterday. I mainly wanted to show that anyone can restore a carburetor- as long as it doesn't have serious issues. Replacing the throttle shaft bushing is probably the most common repair, as that's about the only moving parts. It's easy to do, and all you need is a $20 ream.
Now, shrunken venturii and grooved bores- those are repairs best left for the experts.
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Re: Linkert Restoration
good job tom.
I think "just about anyone can restore a linkert" is more accurate. some people use a hammer on everything
I think "just about anyone can restore a linkert" is more accurate. some people use a hammer on everything
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