covers leaking
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covers leaking
My pan covers are seeping too much. What are the best choices in gaskets? I'm using .060 paper gaskets with light coating of #2 Permatex. Head surface is perfect. torqued to 22 in/lbs. Aluminum covers have been sanded flat on a tool room granite and have a nice surface all around the flange. Using thick D-rings. Maybe go to cork? Thanks, Gary
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Re: covers leaking
Hi Gary,
What's too much? It sounds like you've followed some of the best advice here. Personally I use the metal/rubberized cork; stays relatively dry with some dark seep areas. But it never keeps that freshly assembled clean look for long, like a tight shovelhead or evolution.
What's too much? It sounds like you've followed some of the best advice here. Personally I use the metal/rubberized cork; stays relatively dry with some dark seep areas. But it never keeps that freshly assembled clean look for long, like a tight shovelhead or evolution.
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Re: covers leaking
I used cork on mine when I did them a few months ago. I have only put about 1000 miles on the bike since but they are holding up great, plus I like the cork look.
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Re: covers leaking
Hi Gary,
I've always had some weeping at the low end of the heads, however I've had the best luck so far with very very minimal weep using the James Teflon or whatever they are. Torque and sequence is given on the pkg and I'm a big believer in that. Over 4 years now, They have done pretty darn good. I did have to snug them once. S&S makes a set also. Bought them for a back up but didn't use em ...A friend used the thick paper and coated them with gaska cinch and his were still bone dry last I knew. Not sure how great they will come apart and clean up but that's what he did.
Northman
I've always had some weeping at the low end of the heads, however I've had the best luck so far with very very minimal weep using the James Teflon or whatever they are. Torque and sequence is given on the pkg and I'm a big believer in that. Over 4 years now, They have done pretty darn good. I did have to snug them once. S&S makes a set also. Bought them for a back up but didn't use em ...A friend used the thick paper and coated them with gaska cinch and his were still bone dry last I knew. Not sure how great they will come apart and clean up but that's what he did.
Northman
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Re: covers leaking
Gaskacinch is a friendly product, preferred by many because it does clean up easily. I recently did my covers, and did a lot of research on the subject. In the end, I chose what your friend used- James .060" paper with Gaskacinch. I spent two days working the (stainless steel) covers flat. I haven't ran the motor yet, but I'm confident I got a good seal.
I think everyone has their preferences- I know a motor builder who uses the rubberized cork with the metal center, and gets no call-backs.
I think everyone has their preferences- I know a motor builder who uses the rubberized cork with the metal center, and gets no call-backs.
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Re: covers leaking
Aluminum covers shouldn't require thick gaskets because the aluminum is soft and will flatten out nicely when using thick D rings.
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Re: covers leaking
Just a thought....low part of head, oil puddles there, material impregnates, engine has heat cycles and the oil gets hot and so thin it then comes out of the gasket material....
Northman
Northman
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Re: covers leaking
That's exactly what happens. Some people only use a gasket sealer on the lower portions.
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Re: covers leaking
I have the laminate steel d rings , thin gaskets I used a little permetex only on the low points . There is some seepage but nothing major. It's just not the greatest design, so you have to work in those parameters. I expect little seeping here and there , and as long as it's not a leak or drip , I'm ok with that .
Adam
Adam
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Re: covers leaking
Not sure if I just can't see much from the pictures but if that is the only seepage consider yourself lucky!
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Re: covers leaking
When I did mine I was really fussy about clean tap holes and screw threads, installed them with thin holomar sealer coat on gaskets , tightened evenly, then removed screw one by one and tiny locktite drop and replaced. Seems to work and a few of mine had helicoiled holes.
My two cents.
Andygears
My two cents.
Andygears
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Re: covers leaking
Thanks to all that replied. I decided to use laminated cork. That is two .060 cork with thin metal between. A thin coat of 515 Loctite anerobic sealant rubbed in the cork. Evenly rotation torqued to about 10 in/lbs. Just enough to see it squeeze. About a hundred miles and dry. Yippee! Thanks, Gary
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Re: covers leaking
I know a very respected top-notch builder that uses exactly the same technique. He has no call-backs on the covers. (Or anything else that I know of.)6hds wrote: ↑Sat Jun 24, 2017 1:47 am Thanks to all that replied. I decided to use laminated cork. That is two .060 cork with thin metal between. A thin coat of 515 Loctite anerobic sealant rubbed in the cork. Evenly rotation torqued to about 10 in/lbs. Just enough to see it squeeze. About a hundred miles and dry. Yippee! Thanks, Gary
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Re: covers leaking
My 1960 FLH was assembled in 1988 and has never leaked one drop of oil from a pan. Anybody here want to know how i do this? Bob L
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Re: covers leaking
You got my attention Mr. Luland. Of course, we all want to know. I hope the answer doesn't include the word "welding" Thanks, Gary