Fuel shut off
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Fuel shut off
Hi is there any way of stopping the fuel from seeping through on the old style through tank fuel shutoff ?
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Re: Fuel shut off
Get a new tank shut off assembly withe the "peek" tip from CarlsCycleSupply.com your problem with be fixed.
Find someone in your area that has a fuel tank fuel shutoff alignment tool, do the alignment first.
Jim M
Find someone in your area that has a fuel tank fuel shutoff alignment tool, do the alignment first.
Jim M
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Re: Fuel shut off
Hi Jim found a place in holland think it's called Mullies that do the shutoff valves with the peek tip just waiting for price , just need to find some one in England with the alignment tool now , Cheers for replying
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Re: Fuel shut off
Hope everything works out. By the way the fuel shut off from Carl is $125 us plus shipping.
Cheers,
Jim M
Cheers,
Jim M
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Re: Fuel shut off
Two years ago I bought a fuel shutoff rod with the peek tip of Mullies, works perfectly
Hydra74
Hydra74
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Re: Fuel shut off
Still waiting for a reply of Mullies , postage is a killer now when buying anything from the states
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Re: Fuel shut off
Something I've done to help seal the shutoff is polish the rod tip angle in a lathe. Then while it's still in the chuck, move the compound slide to match the angle of the tip. Then take a scrap piece of aluminum or delrin or even an old bolt and machine that angle on the end with the scrap piece dia. About the same as the shutoff rod tip. Get some lapping compound and coat the end, maybe a little oil, and take the lower tank fitting and lap in the angle. Run the lathe slow and hold the fitting by hand. Wash it all real good with solvent. Will definitely make it better, and don't cost really anything. Just like an engine valve, sometimes you get a ding where the valve squashed down on some rust and won't clean up entirely.
My 2 cents
Andygears
My 2 cents
Andygears
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Re: Fuel shut off
I posted this a few years back...the valve still does not leak
Hi Gang,
I thought I would post this in hopes that it helps someone down the road...
I have been ironing out the bugs on my 56 (see Fire in the Hole) and had to address a very slow leaking fuel shut-off (old original one). I read some posts where people went with a PEEK tip on the rod itself, some lapped the seat in with cigarette ash paste, and one where they used a baking soda paste.
Before trying anything, with the rod and seat removed and cleaned, I screwed the rod into the seat and sucked on the end where the gas line attaches (sounds bad but remember I cleaned it!). I could hear a very faint sound of air passing around the seat. I started out using toothpaste to lap (hey its got baking soda in it) and quickly learned that I made it worse - a lot worse, in fact enough air rushed by that I am sure I turned a weeper into a leaker.
I then went out and bought some baking soda and lapped the rod/seat (screw/unscrew a zillion times) but could only get it to seal if I screwed the rod in real tight.
Today I followed the advice of another poster and de-soldered the small threaded section from the rod. The rod under the threaded piece is a straight knurl and then it is soldered. With a propane torch and light tap I was able to move the threaded piece out of the way.
I then used water based valve grinding compound and a full clockwise/counterclockwise motion to lap the rod and seat. It took a while but I was able to get a seal you cannot suck air through. I then lapped with baking soda for good measure.
Moving the threaded section back is no big deal and an easy solder to ensure it stays put.
Joe
Hi Gang,
I thought I would post this in hopes that it helps someone down the road...
I have been ironing out the bugs on my 56 (see Fire in the Hole) and had to address a very slow leaking fuel shut-off (old original one). I read some posts where people went with a PEEK tip on the rod itself, some lapped the seat in with cigarette ash paste, and one where they used a baking soda paste.
Before trying anything, with the rod and seat removed and cleaned, I screwed the rod into the seat and sucked on the end where the gas line attaches (sounds bad but remember I cleaned it!). I could hear a very faint sound of air passing around the seat. I started out using toothpaste to lap (hey its got baking soda in it) and quickly learned that I made it worse - a lot worse, in fact enough air rushed by that I am sure I turned a weeper into a leaker.
I then went out and bought some baking soda and lapped the rod/seat (screw/unscrew a zillion times) but could only get it to seal if I screwed the rod in real tight.
Today I followed the advice of another poster and de-soldered the small threaded section from the rod. The rod under the threaded piece is a straight knurl and then it is soldered. With a propane torch and light tap I was able to move the threaded piece out of the way.
I then used water based valve grinding compound and a full clockwise/counterclockwise motion to lap the rod and seat. It took a while but I was able to get a seal you cannot suck air through. I then lapped with baking soda for good measure.
Moving the threaded section back is no big deal and an easy solder to ensure it stays put.
Joe