I'm replacing the rear sprocket on my bike. First time taking one of these apart, pretty straight forward. I've got the rivets out (which were loose) and parts cleaned. I've built me a rivet anvil that I had seen photos of for stabilization. My question is is it recommended or helpful to heat the part of the rivet to be flared? I plan on using a smaller tortch tip used for acetylene welding to heat it if others have heated prior to flaring.
Also mine seems to have 4 over sized holes positioned 12,3,6 and 9 o'clock. I haven't received my parts yet just wondering if there are 4 larger ones for these. I'm planing on using a few roll pins punched in to hold it in position unti I need to put a rivet in them?
Any advise would help.
Finally got my Palmers books too. Allot to digest.
Sprocket Rivets on a 1950
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Re: Sprocket Rivets on a 1950
Also the sprocket I've ordered comes with a dust shield but my parts book doesn't show mine using one? Are there any pros or cons on using one?
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Re: Sprocket Rivets on a 1950
The dust shield is on all mechanical drums. It was included in sprocket kits.
https://www.hydra-glide.net/kb/parts/41 ... 54_086.php
The 4 larger holes were for the dowel pins (larger rivets) to center the sprocket on the drum.
https://www.hydra-glide.net/kb/parts/41 ... 54_086.php
The 4 larger holes were for the dowel pins (larger rivets) to center the sprocket on the drum.
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Re: Sprocket Rivets on a 1950
At the risk of being told I don't know what I'm doing, I would tell you I like to heat rivets when I can. I don't just heat the end, I heat the entire rivet to cherry red and have an assistant put it in the holding fixture with needle-nosed pliers and I pound it down with an air slugger or air chisel with a specially-ground punch. It's done on a big, heavy anvil and takes a lot of practice to do right. I would suggest at least putting small screws and nuts in the open holes to pull the sprocket tightly against the drum while you rivet, and I alternate rivets from one side to the other, not just go right around one after another. If you don't have an air chisel, a large hammer is better than a light one. The punch should have a rounded concave end to help it stay on the rivet and shape the end as it gets pounded down. Hit it straight, for sure. You can hear and feel it when it's tight. Since you don't have much time before it cools off it has to be done quickly so you and the assistant have to be a good team. Of course, riveting cold is ok but I don't like it as much. That's just my preference though.
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Re: Sprocket Rivets on a 1950
I did a few hot, and a few cold. Seems like the cold ones were better for the sheer (seemed to hold tighter). I am just guessing that the reason may be that the hot rivets shrink in the hole diameter when cool. Again, this is probably just perception and I have no real good data. These rivets are small comparatively, so they are easy to "squish" cold anyways (and easier to handle).
So, just another opinion. I would think in the grand scheme of things either way works.
Respectfully,
-Dave
So, just another opinion. I would think in the grand scheme of things either way works.
Respectfully,
-Dave