Panhead stops during run.

[hogboy52]

I've used the same sort of with a clear filter on the other side, and auto fuel line directly to the base fitting without any problem. The regular fuel line had a soft compression fitting at the end, and if I run a metal line to a hard fitting, I use a short section of soft line near the end because of vibration... Makes the fuel foam?

[Bigincher]

@Panpal
thank you, but the fuel lines are metallic.

@Ozwick
yes, i'm running with a linkert and the float is mettallic and correctly in site as you say.

@wrong road
sorry, but my fuel lines are metallic...so non deformation is possible.

Just re-reading -
I thought I remembered you saying the float is "metallic". Does that mean you're running a brass float? Usually brass floats eventually sink. HOWEVER-- when they sink, they cause the needle valve to stay open and gas comes out the vent hole in the carb- and other places. That's not your problem, you seem to be fuel-starved.

One thing that can cause starvation is if the float hangs up on the stem of the carburetor, which has already been suggested. The float hangs up, the needle valve cannot flow enough fuel. Perhaps you can confirm that the float is positioned slightly off-center as per the Service Manual.

Another thing that happens often is the float hanging up on the stem when it's all the way down.
After checking the float, the bowl is empty and the float is all the way down where it can hang up on the carb stem. This causes overflowing, but a few raps on the side of the bowl with a screwdriver handle usually frees it up.
Just wanted to mention it in case it happens, don't be alarmed.

[59Panman]

If you did all that fuel research the way ya did. Change the coil. I know the guys here mean well but loose wires and bad switches don't loose power. They just turn off. Bob L

Bob,

I have to disagree with you on the bad switch doesn't lose power. My switch was badly worn and it cut out which caused the bike to lose power. I figured out the issue after rotating ign. switch to the lighting position and all was fine.

[gosilver]

I've used the same sort of with a clear filter on the other side, and auto fuel line directly to the base fitting without any problem. The regular fuel line had a soft compression fitting at the end, and if I run a metal line to a hard fitting, I use a short section of soft line near the end because of vibration... Makes the fuel foam?

No no, the fuel is not foamy....

[gosilver]

@Panpal
thank you, but the fuel lines are metallic.

@Ozwick
yes, i'm running with a linkert and the float is mettallic and correctly in site as you say.

@wrong road
sorry, but my fuel lines are metallic...so non deformation is possible.

Just re-reading -
I thought I remembered you saying the float is "metallic". Does that mean you're running a brass float? Usually brass floats eventually sink. HOWEVER-- when they sink, they cause the needle valve to stay open and gas comes out the vent hole in the carb- and other places. That's not your problem, you seem to be fuel-starved.

One thing that can cause starvation is if the float hangs up on the stem of the carburetor, which has already been suggested. The float hangs up, the needle valve cannot flow enough fuel. Perhaps you can confirm that the float is positioned slightly off-center as per the Service Manual.

Another thing that happens often is the float hanging up on the stem when it's all the way down.
After checking the float, the bowl is empty and the float is all the way down where it can hang up on the carb stem. This causes overflowing, but a few raps on the side of the bowl with a screwdriver handle usually frees it up.
Just wanted to mention it in case it happens, don't be alarmed.

Is strange, but my sensation is that I've to search the problem in the elctric part of the bike. But I could be wrong.
I know is ridicolous, but I dont remember the material of the float. Is for sure metallic..the colour I remeber is stainless steel...Is like when you walk down the road that take you home...there are many thing you see every day but you don't pay attention. In this WE, after "electric operations" if time is by my side I get down the bowl and I take some picture (is a 5 minutes job).

[glyptor]

...Toh...another italian...lontanucci da casa,eh?hello from Sardinia,Gosilver!
Ciao

[gosilver]

...Toh...another italian...lontanucci da casa,eh?hello from Sardinia,Gosilver!
Ciao

Hei! ciao da Genova...ci separa solo qualche miglio di mare!

[gosilver]

ok, Saturday was the "Pan day".
My intention was to check the basic electrical parts. I started getting down the battery. My battery (6V) is an electrolytic one, and is putted into the original bakelite battery box. The level of the water is down, so I refill it in every cell. The condition of wires was not good : from the real battery I have the two wires that are connected dowside of the originals metallic poles of the old battery. I've find the positive pole with more oxidation too (this in the "real" battery pole inside the box).
Saturday here it seemed summer...so I only want to ride my bike, even if thinkig at those wires would not let me calm.
Reconnetting negative pole....a short from the positive!!!..my positive and negative wires cooked!. The wires were really in bad conditions....
So I' ve disconnetted all and remake the connection with new wires and all from the battery to the bike elctrical system. All these world are to ask to you: I' ve cheked every single wire in the switch on the dash; i' ve checked eversy single wire on the terminal plate, on the cut out relay, on the generator, the spark plug wires...and the electrical system from the battery is new. Now...is possible that there was a "spark" in the positive of the battery that when i run the bike make a short and stop it? is possible that was the cause of the problem?

[gosilver]

this is an error

[Robert Luland]

Do you run a fuse? Are these original wires? Keep in mind that electrical wire rot from the inside out. Just because a wire shows continuity doesn't mean it can take load with out breaking.

[gosilver]

Do you run a fuse? Are these original wires? Keep in mind that electrical wire rot from the inside out. Just because a wire shows continuity doesn't mean it can take load with out breaking.

No T run without a fuse. The wires are not the original ones, but like the original ones covered in cloth. The electric diagram is same as the original.

[Bigincher]

... Now...is possible that there was a "spark" in the positive of the battery that when i run the bike make a short and stop it? is possible that was the cause of the problem?

Yes, that's possible.
Can you borrow a different battery and try it? It would be good to eliminate it as a possible cause of the problem.

[gosilver]

... Now...is possible that there was a "spark" in the positive of the battery that when i run the bike make a short and stop it? is possible that was the cause of the problem?

Yes, that's possible.
Can you borrow a different battery and try it? It would be good to eliminate it as a possible cause of the problem.

After the short i've tested the battery and it was about 6,5 volts. So I rewired the battery with new wires, connectors and I connected it to the bike. All was working, the battery seems not been cooked. When light on the charging in was about 7,3 volts. I' ve got to see if it keep the charge but I belive yes.

[bigbox]

Ok, do you mind if I throw my thoughts in... How about the coil breaking down under load? Or even the spark plugs being crap and then there is also the condenser.

[Andygears]

Did my test in the dark show the points stop sparking? I had an auto mechanic teacher, Mr. Dolan, who used to say "Go for the 100% solution" by that he meant don't check the coil wire or points, on a car, go right to the plug and insure strong spark. If not work your way back. If strong steady spark, trickle gas in the carb. If that makes it run, the problem is fuel. If strong spark and gas don't help, timing or compression is the problem. This was his solution for a car that don't run.

In your case, I would Hotwire directly from the battery to the coil, put in new gapped plugs and try to run, leave the keyswitch off. Heck, disconnect the battery except for the Hotwire, and the ground cable. Then, the only parts in the electric system are the coil, condenser, plug wires, plugs, points and the wire from the coil to the points. It would eliminate any dead short killing the system. Make sure that the good battery has a good charge.

Just my 2 cents
Andygears