Panhead stops during run.

[gosilver]

Ok, do you mind if I throw my thoughts in... How about the coil breaking down under load? Or even the spark plugs being crap and then there is also the condenser.

all can be. Now I want to try to ride my bike after the little work on the battery wires. If the problem is not solved I'll go ahead step by step.

[gosilver]

Did my test in the dark show the points stop sparking? I had an auto mechanic teacher, Mr. Dolan, who used to say "Go for the 100% solution" by that he meant don't check the coil wire or points, on a car, go right to the plug and insure strong spark. If not work your way back. If strong steady spark, trickle gas in the carb. If that makes it run, the problem is fuel. If strong spark and gas don't help, timing or compression is the problem. This was his solution for a car that don't run.

In your case, I would Hotwire directly from the battery to the coil, put in new gapped plugs and try to run, leave the keyswitch off. Heck, disconnect the battery except for the Hotwire, and the ground cable. Then, the only parts in the electric system are the coil, condenser, plug wires, plugs, points and the wire from the coil to the points. It would eliminate any dead short killing the system. Make sure that the good battery has a good charge.

Just my 2 cents
Andygears

Thank you Andygears.
I've done what you said and the spark seems good and with the right continuity. I had not do other operations you suggested, because are new in my poor knowledge. But: the "problem" is that the bike stops only when run. If is on the kickstand there are no problems...Here is the strange fact. If I accelarate at high RPM no problems (on stand)!...if the bike is running, even in low RPM too, at a certain moment, the bike stops. For this reason I belive is an electric problem caused by a wire that "moves" during run. Now, I had no time to try to ride (my job...) after the intervention to the battery electrical system. If the problem persist....I'll try what you say. It seems a really good tip!

[59Panman]

Check the timer base bottom to make sure the "C" Clip is making good contact for ground.

[james]

You say the bike will run fine sitting on the kick stand, idle and revving up right?
You say the bike only stops or cuts out when under load or riding right?
Jim M

[gosilver]

You say the bike will run fine sitting on the kick stand, idle and revving up right?
You say the bike only stops or cuts out when under load or riding right?
Jim M

Yes, right.

[james]

What can fail under load?
Coil
Spark plugs
Condenser
bad ground somewhere

What happens when the engine cuts out?
Does it just shut off like it is switched off or does it pop and backfire?
Does it pop out the carburetor like maybe starving for gas?

Jim M

[gosilver]

What can fail under load?
Coil
Spark plugs
Condenser
bad ground somewhere

What happens when the engine cuts out?
Does it just shut off like it is switched off or does it pop and backfire?
Does it pop out the carburetor like maybe starving for gas?

Jim M

Hi Jim. No pops or backfire is like switched off. Note that my switch is a brand new one (six pole with a "bridge" for the six pole). I want to try to go with lights position on too. But honestly I do belive not it depends to the switch. But never say never....

[james]

Does it shut off, sputter, then come back on while riding?
Or does it shut off and you move to side of the road and kick to restart?
Does it start back up after it stops running or does it take a while to start again?
Just trying to narrow things down.
Jim M

[gosilver]

Does it shut off, sputter, then come back on while riding?
Or does it shut off and you move to side of the road and kick to restart?
Does it start back up after it stops running or does it take a while to start again?
Just trying to narrow things down.
Jim M

It shut off and i move to the side of the road to kick.
When I stop all is ok (lights on the dash are on and brilliants). Only one kick and the engine is on!
Only one time the bike was stopping but, going to the side of the road, playng with throttle the engine keep on running. But it had happened only one time over 15.
Fuel cap is vented, fuel line seems ok (getting down the bowl of the Linkert, I've cheked the amount and is right). The float of the carburator is stainless steel. All seems clean ad ok.

[panhead_kicker]

Many others in this conversation have suggested the coil as the problem.
What type of coil do you have?

[Bigincher]

I'm going with Andy on this- eliminate all the wiring by running only a hot wire from the battery to the coil, and disconnect everything else. If that solves the problem, there is a wire that's getting pinched somewhere that only happens when the bike is vertical and starts rolling. A weird condition, but not unheard of.

[james]

At this point I would pull the coil and closely inspect the wires and insulators on the circuit board under the coil. Closely inspect.

Jim M

[rozemab]

I had a similar problem on my pan. Ran well then died. Pulled of the road and it would start.

I found two root causes: The threaded 'nipple' on the plugs had worked itself loose.

The metal clip connector (clips to the plug) underneath the boot was corroded. It was so bad than when I pulled the boot off the connector, and squeezed the connection, the connector broke in half.

I really think the corrosion was from dis-similar metals. Vibration and the two issues contributed to the sudden death.

image.jpeg

[Panhead Ed]

Put your bike on the stand , start it then jiggle the switch , does it quit ? now switch it to the light on position , did it die between positions ? if so whos new switch did you install ...

[Panhead Ed]

Also did you try the direct wire test to elliminate your wireing harness from the equation