Hi folks, Happy New Years to everyone!!! For the last few months, I've dealt with an issue regarding chain tension. I set the tension using the adjustments on the frame. Eyeball down the length of the chain ( decent machinists eye) to visually align as there don't seem to be any repeatable points of measurement for making sure the rear wheel is in correct alignment after tensioning the chain.
The issue is, the chain tension seems to change as I rotate the rear wheel. Assuming the alignment is correct, is it possible that some of the rivets are loose on the drive sprocket / attachment to the hub?
Can one individually drill out and re-rivet the sprocket to correct the problem? Assuming the sprocket doesn't need replacement. Chain is fine.
Thanks for your assistance, come on spring, was dang -13 for three nights here last week!!!
Varying drive chain tension?
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Re: Varying drive chain tension?
See attached. Especially the intro part.
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Re: Varying drive chain tension?
Thank you sir!! Printed and added to notes on the machine. Some things are so simple and easy they don't make sense.
Thanks for posting the page.
Respectfully
Thanks for posting the page.
Respectfully
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Re: Varying drive chain tension?
There will always be tight and loose spots in the rear drive chain; this is due to the sprocket being riveted slightly out of concentric, possibly a few other issues such as being ran out of adjustment. Aftermarket brake drums can be bad, but the last one I got from Paughco was about as close as you could ever hope for, I would speak for it.
You may try to relocate your sprocket as described, but without precision locating techniques, how much improvement will you achieve?
The factory suggests adjusting drive chain tension to the 'tight' spot, then ride it. If the chain seems to 'whip' while riding, it is still too tight. As you ride, the chain should just lay there with a small dip in it. You'll need a friend to watch it, you can't really watch it yourself and stay on the road safely....
You may try to relocate your sprocket as described, but without precision locating techniques, how much improvement will you achieve?
The factory suggests adjusting drive chain tension to the 'tight' spot, then ride it. If the chain seems to 'whip' while riding, it is still too tight. As you ride, the chain should just lay there with a small dip in it. You'll need a friend to watch it, you can't really watch it yourself and stay on the road safely....
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Re: Varying drive chain tension?
It's not the sprocket. It's the drum. I repair and rivet these for people all the time. If you have a drum that was never spun. Let me stop right there. By spun I mean the rivets sheared and the sprocket was allowed to spin on the drum. Just a few seconds can take a lot of meat off the drum lip. I've taken a lot of oem drums apart where the sprocket had never been changed. That fit in to the sprocket depression is tight. Even the ones I get from Eastern are a good fit. That's what aliens the sprocket to the drum. All the rivets do is hold it there. Now the drum problem. I made a custom arbor for mounting drums in my lathe between centers so I can put a dial indicator on them. You wouldn't believe how far out some of these are. I really feel the factory had a percentage they worked with and as long as it was with in those percentages, out the door it went. The sprockets are machined not stamped. So the chances of them not being concentric are pretty slim. Bob L