plated hardware - anti seize?
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plated hardware - anti seize?
hey this should spark some debate,
i just got some some cad plated motor mounts bolts for the 58 duo-glide, and im wondering if i should use anti-seize on them before cinching 'em down into the aluminum.
this opens up a can of worms ,. i mean,. whats recommended for cad plated bolts into aluminum block? zink plated? parkerized into steel frame tabs? any opinions would be greatly intellectualized. "general rules" would be appreciated/relentlessly scrutinized
thanks!
-rva drew
i just got some some cad plated motor mounts bolts for the 58 duo-glide, and im wondering if i should use anti-seize on them before cinching 'em down into the aluminum.
this opens up a can of worms ,. i mean,. whats recommended for cad plated bolts into aluminum block? zink plated? parkerized into steel frame tabs? any opinions would be greatly intellectualized. "general rules" would be appreciated/relentlessly scrutinized
thanks!
-rva drew
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Re: plated hardware - anti seize?
Don't know if this helps or not as it relates to helicopter maintenance.
On UH-60 Blackhawk's that I work on here in Germany, the tail rotor retention plate bolts are spray coated dry film lube and then baked in the dryer oven.
There is a lot of places on the helicopter that the hardware uses the baked on dry film lube, and this stuff is great.
I don't have the brand name off the top of my head, but can look it up on Monday.
George
PS, I intend to use it in the same location (engine mount bolts), and others on my 58FL project in Oregon.
On UH-60 Blackhawk's that I work on here in Germany, the tail rotor retention plate bolts are spray coated dry film lube and then baked in the dryer oven.
There is a lot of places on the helicopter that the hardware uses the baked on dry film lube, and this stuff is great.
I don't have the brand name off the top of my head, but can look it up on Monday.
George
PS, I intend to use it in the same location (engine mount bolts), and others on my 58FL project in Oregon.
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Re: plated hardware - anti seize?
When I Bolt-up a Motor that has Parkerized or cad--plating-(depending where)--On Motor I use a small dab of Blue-Loc-tite/ The bolts will get enuff lube on them as you pack the miles on!--Since your installing it /Just a dab will do ya.You will be loosening them again at some point,for After run-in adjustments/you will find that once the mill establishes itself correctly ,a bolt may even get loose-just from the normal Tourque stresses.Anti-Seize should be used on Anything going into the Alum.-CASES!--(ITS a MUST DO.ex.--(lifter-blocks,oil-pump,gear cover screws,etc.).I do this for olny a certain few that have REAL NICE PURE BIKES.I personaly like Stainless fasteners then what OEM used.When it sits in the rain Im really not concerned about it.IF your machine is a factory resto to its OEM specs,Just tighten them to specified tourque in your manual & a small dab of the blue,You will be fine----Respectfully---Richie
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Re: plated hardware - anti seize?
Hello Drew,
I think you are asking if it matters what finish the fasteners are- cad, zink, Park, etc.
No, it doesn't matter. Blue Loctite is good almost everywhere except, of course, into aluminum- as previous stated. That's where it's wise to use anti-seize- including and especially on spark plugs. Be 'tidy' when applying any of the above.
Don't be tempted to use Red Loctite, it is a stud and bearing mount, which does have its uses in certain places. Also, be sure to clean the bolt and threaded holes thoroughly when applying. If you use it on an oily bolt, it won't stick. I like to use BrakeKleen.
If you choose stainless steel, be sure you know what grade it is. There are several grades, the lowest of which will indeed rust.
I think you are asking if it matters what finish the fasteners are- cad, zink, Park, etc.
No, it doesn't matter. Blue Loctite is good almost everywhere except, of course, into aluminum- as previous stated. That's where it's wise to use anti-seize- including and especially on spark plugs. Be 'tidy' when applying any of the above.
Don't be tempted to use Red Loctite, it is a stud and bearing mount, which does have its uses in certain places. Also, be sure to clean the bolt and threaded holes thoroughly when applying. If you use it on an oily bolt, it won't stick. I like to use BrakeKleen.
If you choose stainless steel, be sure you know what grade it is. There are several grades, the lowest of which will indeed rust.
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Re: plated hardware - anti seize?
Keep in mind that Cadmium is a natural lubricant and fasteners coated with it were often specified for places where dis-assembly and re-assembly are common. If not locked it will unscrew quite easily.
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Re: plated hardware - anti seize?
thanks guys!
i used anti seize on my motor mounts, i i figure antiseize on dissimilar metals as they wont be removed anytime soon (hopefully). i shimmed the front with some stainless flashing i found in the garage. i cut the shims into flat u shapes so they would capture the bolt so to speak. it seemed to have about .010'' gap and the shim measured just that. i tightened them to 35 ft-lb's which made me sweat . if i had done by feel i think i would have ran em looser, i doubt theres even a spec for this? its a 50 fl motor in a 58 duo glide frame. i have only a very very small clearance between the rear rocker cover and the down tube ( that weld that hangs low on those, if you can picture that)
im now installing the transmission but i need to get hardware to mount the trans plate to frame. ill shim that too
pics coming soon! thanks again everyone!
i used anti seize on my motor mounts, i i figure antiseize on dissimilar metals as they wont be removed anytime soon (hopefully). i shimmed the front with some stainless flashing i found in the garage. i cut the shims into flat u shapes so they would capture the bolt so to speak. it seemed to have about .010'' gap and the shim measured just that. i tightened them to 35 ft-lb's which made me sweat . if i had done by feel i think i would have ran em looser, i doubt theres even a spec for this? its a 50 fl motor in a 58 duo glide frame. i have only a very very small clearance between the rear rocker cover and the down tube ( that weld that hangs low on those, if you can picture that)
im now installing the transmission but i need to get hardware to mount the trans plate to frame. ill shim that too
pics coming soon! thanks again everyone!
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Re: plated hardware - anti seize?
Surface between engine and frame should be bare metal and I use antiseize on each surface for best conductivity or ground.
I like antiseize on bolts, engine bolts and blue Loctite on the clean bolt threads. You won't see corrosion on bolts coated with antiseize and they are easier to remove when necessary, That goes for all types of metal preparation, cad, parkerized, zinc, chrome etc. Use antiseize to protect and blue Loctite to lock.
Jim M
I like antiseize on bolts, engine bolts and blue Loctite on the clean bolt threads. You won't see corrosion on bolts coated with antiseize and they are easier to remove when necessary, That goes for all types of metal preparation, cad, parkerized, zinc, chrome etc. Use antiseize to protect and blue Loctite to lock.
Jim M
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Re: plated hardware - anti seize?
I want to add that using a small amount of antiseize on bolts and washers to be torqued aids in the torque tightening accuracy.
Dry is a bad idea.
Jim M.
Dry is a bad idea.
Jim M.