Sprocket on Brake Drum
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Sprocket on Brake Drum
On another note related to a previous post regarding wheel hubs, I cleaned mine and replaced a couple thin spacers that were torn and the cork seals. I greased it up pretty good when I assembled it. When I went to shoot some grease in the zirt it only took about 2 shots before I could start to see it come out. Does that sound right? If not, what did I do wrong?
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Re: Sprocket on Brake Drum
In regards to the grease.....
If you're talking about the grease zerk on the star cover, that sounds about right.
But if you're talking about the zerk on the barrel of the hub, consider this; you must fill the void between the inner sleeve and the hub itself.
Since you just had it apart, would you say the I.D. of the hub is approximately 1-1/2"?
And the O.D. of the inner sleeve is....what, about 1 inch?
So that leaves about 1/4" void all the way around the inner sleeve, and nearly the width of the hub.
I'm going to take a wild guess and say that that's more than two pumps....
If you're talking about the grease zerk on the star cover, that sounds about right.
But if you're talking about the zerk on the barrel of the hub, consider this; you must fill the void between the inner sleeve and the hub itself.
Since you just had it apart, would you say the I.D. of the hub is approximately 1-1/2"?
And the O.D. of the inner sleeve is....what, about 1 inch?
So that leaves about 1/4" void all the way around the inner sleeve, and nearly the width of the hub.
I'm going to take a wild guess and say that that's more than two pumps....
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Re: Sprocket on Brake Drum
Bigincher,thanks. It seems I've got it right. It took considerable more pumps for the inner zert. Kim
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Re: Sprocket on Brake Drum
Panrider----You must fix the LOOSE RIVETS.-There are 2-things you can do--Use Rivets /or use Bolts with Locnuts.--I prefer using the bolts/they hold better & wont leave you with a skewed sprocket that can throw a chain & worse,Crack your Tranny!.I actually do What your not suppose to do!--When I get a New hub-I put 4-1-inch welds from sprocket to hub!.--Im not condoning this & it is Wrong to do!--But It has served me GREAT/As I put A lot of milage on in 8-months & 70% of the time Mommas on the back.So When we go get lost for a few days Its just something I do not have to worry about.You can Look in the K-Base for the Fixes that guys do.(Bolts are better then Rivets.)-But If you have a correct rivet press /The Rivets can hold very tight also.--Hope this helps---Respectfully---Richie
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Re: Sprocket on Brake Drum
Richie, you got a pic of the bolt and locnut setup? To get the rivets out one has to drill them out, correct?
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Re: Sprocket on Brake Drum
Panrider---Yes you drill the rivets out/beingcareful not to open the hole!-Just to break the rivet head & usually the otherside drops out with a push from an awl.I do not have a PIC of the bolts & locknuts/But guys that have them should post a pic. for Rider to see.Anyway there are PICS. of this in the K-Base!.-You just have to hunt.---Respectfully--Richie!
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Re: Sprocket on Brake Drum
Here's a pic of mine. Used bolts with an allen head for clearance with nyloc nuts. ( I also put 4 small welds in the back just to be sure.)
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Re: Sprocket on Brake Drum
dbanana, thanks. What size allen head screws did you use? With all those screws, it seems welding maybe a bit excessive...?
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Re: Sprocket on Brake Drum
I used 3/16 x 3/4 - 24TPI
there are the same amount of bolts as there were rivets.
the welding is up to you... but nothing exceeds like excess.
there are the same amount of bolts as there were rivets.
the welding is up to you... but nothing exceeds like excess.
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Re: Sprocket on Brake Drum
I was told by a bike shop to take a punch and spread the rivets. There is no lateral play, they just are able to turn. Would this be a good idea to try first? I've also been warned about using a hammer on cast. I realize that but it's not like I'm going to take a sledge hammer to it. Thoughts?
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Re: Sprocket on Brake Drum
The rivet would need some sort of rigid support to the back of it, the round side
and you would hit the flattened side with a drift to spread the shaft portion of the rivet, so your not actually hitting the cast drum.
You can try this and it may or may not work, they could be fatigued. Frankly if you are going
to the trouble of taking the drum off to whack some rivets you might as well replace them. I would feel
more confident with new rivets.
Cheers
Jim
and you would hit the flattened side with a drift to spread the shaft portion of the rivet, so your not actually hitting the cast drum.
You can try this and it may or may not work, they could be fatigued. Frankly if you are going
to the trouble of taking the drum off to whack some rivets you might as well replace them. I would feel
more confident with new rivets.
Cheers
Jim
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Re: Sprocket on Brake Drum
You could squeeze them tight in a large vice. Downside is you put a flat on the domed head. I would also do them all not just the obviously loose ones.
The nut and bolt idea is good. Did an emergency repair 10+ years ago on a mate's U (only had 4 rivets left in) and he's still running around on it.
Ron
The nut and bolt idea is good. Did an emergency repair 10+ years ago on a mate's U (only had 4 rivets left in) and he's still running around on it.
Ron
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Re: Sprocket on Brake Drum
As for squeezing the rivets on a vise--You may get lucky!-But for how long???---When sqeezing them in a vise you actualy are leaving Folded edes that have gaps.The proper way to Rivet is to have the die that fits the head of the rivet & use a Press with the other half of a die that will COMPRESS & not Smash them on.I threw 12-rivets somewhere?-Don't know. but when I realized it I was heading into NJ thru the Holland-Tunnel. They could of been missing since after my last chain adj./I don't know.Now that many rivets broken IS enuff to SKEW the sprocket/just enuff to throw the chain under ideal circumstances!-Which can Roll-up & crack a Tranny housing.I rode on the welds for another few days until I got my Dies & rivet-press back from a brother.I replaced with rivets/All of them!---Respectfully---Richie
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Re: Sprocket on Brake Drum
First time for this, did some research and this is what I came up with
Worked really well-maybe this will help out someone else
Follow instructions in the service manual, peen rivets with a ballpeen hammer, then finish off with a rivet set if you have one for a round head finished appearance.
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Re: Sprocket on Brake Drum
I replaced the sprocket & rear chain on my 65 last summer. I went to a tool store & bought a bit for my air chisel that fit the domed head of the rivet. I had to grind one side flat to clear the side of the drum. Then I took an old hammer head and drilled a 1/4 " hole about 1/8" deep just off the edge.
I put machine screws with nuts every-other hole & tightened them to hold the sprocket tight. Then I placed a rivet in the remaining holes, put the hammer head on the protruding end (to 'buck' the rivet), set my air regulator to 35 psi and compressed each rivet in a crisscross pattern.
Don't drill the hole in the hammer very deep. As the butt end mushrooms, the hammer will contact the drum & ring like a bell. that's the stop signal!! Then remove the screws & set the remaining rivets. I then turned the regulator to 50 psi and 'burped' the air gun on each rivet. They are like spokes, a tight rivet will have crisp tone, a loose rivet sounds flatter.
You (normally) can't just tighten a loose rivet. By the time you notice it, it has been spinning in the hole and the diameter is worn. Not only do the rivets pinch the two pieces together, each rivet acts as a dowel to transmit thrust from the chain to the tire. Go slow and allow the shaft of the rivets to swell tight in the holes in the sprocket & drum.
By using 1/4" hole in the hammer head you form a concentric mushroom head on the protruding end of the rivet. On the 4 dowel rivets, I took a larger center punch and swelled the end before bucking them.
I took pics as I went, but they did not load in the PC & I deleted the SD card before I realized it.
I put machine screws with nuts every-other hole & tightened them to hold the sprocket tight. Then I placed a rivet in the remaining holes, put the hammer head on the protruding end (to 'buck' the rivet), set my air regulator to 35 psi and compressed each rivet in a crisscross pattern.
Don't drill the hole in the hammer very deep. As the butt end mushrooms, the hammer will contact the drum & ring like a bell. that's the stop signal!! Then remove the screws & set the remaining rivets. I then turned the regulator to 50 psi and 'burped' the air gun on each rivet. They are like spokes, a tight rivet will have crisp tone, a loose rivet sounds flatter.
You (normally) can't just tighten a loose rivet. By the time you notice it, it has been spinning in the hole and the diameter is worn. Not only do the rivets pinch the two pieces together, each rivet acts as a dowel to transmit thrust from the chain to the tire. Go slow and allow the shaft of the rivets to swell tight in the holes in the sprocket & drum.
By using 1/4" hole in the hammer head you form a concentric mushroom head on the protruding end of the rivet. On the 4 dowel rivets, I took a larger center punch and swelled the end before bucking them.
I took pics as I went, but they did not load in the PC & I deleted the SD card before I realized it.