Here are some photos of my 65's that show the holes line up good , don;t know if they are repop or OEM ( don't care ether ) you can flip the d-rings and they will work both ways ,but there is a top and bottom . There seem to be marks for another set of holes or for some kind of alignment for mach. or just marks from the mold they were made with , no interfering with d-ring and cover .. My other Pan does have some interference on the same edge you show on yours ,but they do not force the cover into the valve assem.
D-Ring Fitment
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I used a magic marker for Dy-Kem and then pushed the d-ring down on the cover, and the areas where it was tight removed the pen line. Then I removed the mark with a wide swath with a dremel cylinder-shaped stone.
Where one D-ring screw head would hit the side of the cover when I tried to tighten the screw down, I used the 1/8" spiral burr (shown), inside the one D-ring hole and removed a little material. The screw head would then clear the cover's sidewall. Now all 12 screws can be hand turned into the head without binding. The D-ring goes on without binding. Thanks Cotten.
Where one D-ring screw head would hit the side of the cover when I tried to tighten the screw down, I used the 1/8" spiral burr (shown), inside the one D-ring hole and removed a little material. The screw head would then clear the cover's sidewall. Now all 12 screws can be hand turned into the head without binding. The D-ring goes on without binding. Thanks Cotten.
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Final Fitment
In retro-spect, i suppose you could hog-out some of the d-ring holes, in addition to whatever cover holes needed hogging. I found that the d-ring holes at the top bend on each ring need hogging outward, or else the top rim of an OE sylte (1/4" flanged head) screw would hit the exterior cover sidewall,
and still bind at the cover hole that was already at it's limit of hog-out, before it went over into the open cover area and could create a leak at the cork gasket seal. The d-ring hole in this case needs to be hogged outward as shown by the mark (but only slightly, the big mark is only a direction indicator).
The end result is, the d-ring should slip over the cover with no binding, and when you pick up the ring and cover, with all 12 screws in position, the screws should drop-through on their own weight.
The cover then goes on the head with all 12 screws easily hand-tightened with a 1/4" nut driver.
~ The cylindrical stone removes the high spots inside the d-ring. The spiral burr (above) hogs the cover and d-ring holes. ~
Note: Even though the screws drop through the cover and start easily, once the shank portion of the screw enters the d-ring holes, all bets are off.
Installing the screws and finding one or two tight sometimes can be remedied by hogging out another suspect d-ring hole. Look at where the screw is position when it starts to bind, and mark which side of the hole to hog. [Note: You would never have to remove as much material as is indicated by this black mark. It's a fat mark to mark the spot only. Proceed with caution, a little material removed is all that's necessary.]
You can start the screws into the head a few threads, with the cover and ring and cork gasket assembled; then carefully lift the ring and cover assembly a little (shown two pics up) and you can feel where the cover might bind as it clacks against threads.
and still bind at the cover hole that was already at it's limit of hog-out, before it went over into the open cover area and could create a leak at the cork gasket seal. The d-ring hole in this case needs to be hogged outward as shown by the mark (but only slightly, the big mark is only a direction indicator).
The end result is, the d-ring should slip over the cover with no binding, and when you pick up the ring and cover, with all 12 screws in position, the screws should drop-through on their own weight.
The cover then goes on the head with all 12 screws easily hand-tightened with a 1/4" nut driver.
~ The cylindrical stone removes the high spots inside the d-ring. The spiral burr (above) hogs the cover and d-ring holes. ~
Note: Even though the screws drop through the cover and start easily, once the shank portion of the screw enters the d-ring holes, all bets are off.
Installing the screws and finding one or two tight sometimes can be remedied by hogging out another suspect d-ring hole. Look at where the screw is position when it starts to bind, and mark which side of the hole to hog. [Note: You would never have to remove as much material as is indicated by this black mark. It's a fat mark to mark the spot only. Proceed with caution, a little material removed is all that's necessary.]
You can start the screws into the head a few threads, with the cover and ring and cork gasket assembled; then carefully lift the ring and cover assembly a little (shown two pics up) and you can feel where the cover might bind as it clacks against threads.
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Re: D-Ring Fitment
I know this is a old topic!----And a nice job on everybodys part ---My preference is OEM whenever I see a decent rusty set --(THATS what you want!)--They are cheap enuff at any swapmeet!---& no problems as described above!---The olny time I would buy (NEW) covers & RINGS IS when a customer decides on it!--THEN all the ---- hits the fan as above! & yes I go thru the same krap!---(I have atleast a dozen real covers & rings IN excellewnt rusty cond. & would not part for any $$$ amount!---(Rust is nothing--just like washing hands!)---ME personaly I rather not deal with all the crap--,but when a customer wants it ,hands are pretty much tied!--The more I install repops--the more I love my pan!---Just my 2 ---Richie
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Re: D-Ring Fitment
I just received new paucho d-rings and rocker covers,the covers were new old stock. Sure enough, the rings are snug on the covers. And screw holes don't all match up.too soon to tell which parts are off, but will need to open up holes on one or both parts. Guess I should say that I bought the thin steel d-rings. Bob