Hanging with My RSES

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Bigincher
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Re: Hanging with My RSES

#31

Post by Bigincher »

I like it, and many thanks for the write-up.
I do have one question: Will you be looking for an alternate routing of the clutch cable to avoid the rear exhaust pipe?
rozemab
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Re: Hanging with My RSES

#32

Post by rozemab »

Bigincher,

The pictures are mis-leading. There is about 1 1/4 inches of free air between the pipe to the cable. I have not turned the bars fully from stop to stop but I will check it out ASAP. I *think* there is enough service 'loop' slop in the cable to keep the cable from the hot pipe.
Bigincher wrote:I like it, and many thanks for the write-up.
I do have one question: Will you be looking for an alternate routing of the clutch cable to avoid the rear exhaust pipe?
Mose
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Re: Hanging with My RSES

#33

Post by Mose »

Is there room for a clutch 'helper' inside the RSES?
rozemab
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Re: Hanging with My RSES

#34

Post by rozemab »

Mose wrote:Is there room for a clutch 'helper' inside the RSES?
Mose,

I do not believe you can add anything to the inside of the RSES unit. It is very compact. Besides I think the ball/ramp might give you a mechanical advantage to overcome the clutch springs.
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Re: Hanging with My RSES

#35

Post by rozemab »

Summary of the RSES

I have a few minutes to write down my thoughts on the Right Side Electric Starter (RSES) system.


Support

Russ was always available to quickly answer questions and provide guidance throughout the project. He provided
his cell phone number and email address and responded very quickly to my questions.


Design

The unit is an impressive engineering effort. It is hard to believe Russ was able to get all the internal
mechanisms into the same approximate volume as the original kicker cover. The unit is not a flimsy stamped or welded unit.
It is a beautiful AL casted body and cover that is machined to very high quality standards. When you examine the system
you will learn quickly it is a substantial system that is meant to last the life time of the bike. Everything I examined
was over-engineered to be very robust.

I decided to buy Russ's oil bag because I want to keep the lines of the motorcycle. Like the RSES unit, the bag is very well
made and has the bottom tray welded onto it. Russ did mention all bags are 100% pressure tested. The included rear mount (I own a swing arm
panhead) was simple to measure. After the height was set, (the arms of the rear mount goes underneath the oil bag's tray), I found a local
welder to weld the assembly together ($10). Note that no modifications were needed to be made to the new oil bag.

A local powder coating firm coated the bag and mount for $50. I consider this a bargain considering they soda blasted both parts prior to
powder coating them.

Special Tools

The RSES system gave me an excuse to buy a hydraulic hand-held crimper to make up the power cables (six gauge wire) for the installation.
One special tool was a larger than normal allen wrench (3/8 in?) with long reach (6 inches) to get to one of the starter mounting screws
inside the unit. Another needed tool is a external snap-ring removal pliers. I feel these last two tools are typical for a home mechanic.
Alll other tools are common.


Installation

The DVD (included with the unit) was a very big help since the directions were difficult to follow. After watching the video, the
written instructions made perfect sense.

The RSES unit mounted perfectly to the four speed gear box. The starter motor (which is pre-ground at three critical spots to
minimize interference) had enough material removed that additional grinding was not needed. Remember, we are talking about grinding on the
starter motor, nothing on your gear box lid or frame, etc. . The starter is a tight tolerance fit to the RSES unit. It must fit square to the
back of the unit. If there was any interference, you would know almost immediately.

Wiring

All wiring is custom made by yourself. You have to decide where to put the starter circuit and whether or not it will be relay driven or
not (live all the time). I purchased the tool box and used it as the starter circuit/ junction box to keep the bike as near factory setup
as possible. Russ' oil bag design will hold a softail size battery with some fwd-aft room. (The battery is held in place with a large black
reusable zip-tie, which is included.)

Space is tight. You need to pay attention to the details and make sure the high current cables have sufficient protection from sharp edges etc.
On Amazon I found a bag of protective terminal boots that will cover up terminals and make your installation more professional looking. Also,
I'm a big believer in shrink tubing (and di-electric grease) on all crimped connections for weather protection and looks. I just think shrink tubing
makes the crimped lugs etc look better.

Awl Sh!ts

I had two awl sh!ts in the installation. Both are tied to the steel oil lines. The oil feed line must be installed first before you bolt up the
RSES unit to your tranny. My goal was to keep the steel lines because I like the looks of them. Since the oil bag feed part sits higher, a new
feed line was required.

The second sh!ts was the oil return line. My original setup had an oil filter (a 3rd party one - used a spin-on filter). I found that it interferred
with the clutch cable and I really did not want to bend the cable and attempt to force the filter in place. So I elected to remove the filter entirely.
This meant I needed a new oil return line. I ordered a new return line from Dennis Corso ('58 panhead, swing arm etc.). When I arrived it was about 1 inch
too tall! Hard to say what the issue was but I was not ready to throw the towel in! I removed about a 1 1/2 inch section from a hidden section of the
line and inserted a 3/8 inch 400 psi proof hydraulic line in its place. Problem solved! The 'splice' is hidden behind the rear exhaust to it does not
jump out at you as a sloppy installation.


An honorable mention awl sh!t was the Barrnet clutch cable. I have a difficult time threading the cable into the RSES unit. I could not get it to start
threading! After a quick call to Russ, we determined the hardware on the cable was the root cause. The threaded male end was either plated or painted
(I could not tell) amd thickness was slightly too thick. A quick cleanup of the thread (I used a compatible threaded nut) and the
cable threaded into the unit. (It was tight but not'binding-cross-threading tight). I hate using a wrench to thread anything into AL. I want to use my
fingers to the very end.

Benefit to Cost

I did not buy the RSES system because I could not kick my panhead over. I bought the system because my riding habits are changing. With two boys in high
school sports, I have found I do not have a weekend day that I can devote to a full day ride. Instead I have 30 minutes here and there that I can zoom
off and grap a few miles on my panhead. The last thing I want to face is the 'uncertainty' that it will start, or risk a nasty kick-back that would ruin
the mood for a quick ride. Having the RSES unit on my panhead reduces the worry and allows me to focus on the road trip ahead of me !

I have no issues with removing the kick-starter. As I have found, a panhead will not kick start in front a crowd anyhow. If there are problems starting it, it
is something likely a kick starter will not solve ! I have very high confidence in the design and suspect other 54 year old old parts on the bike will fail
first before the RSES.

The unique design of the unit is a benefit to me. Nothing on the bike had to be sawed/welded/ground/etc to make it fit. I can always return it to the original
setup anytime in the future. I feel there is no lost costs with the system. In fact I feel it has added value to my panhead because it now offers more to me
and (heaven forgives!) its next owner an unique capability that does not look like it was hacked together.

I feel the full amount invested in the unit will be fully recovered in the future.
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Re: Hanging with My RSES

#36

Post by hplhd »

brian, p/m sent
Mose
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Re: Hanging with My RSES

#37

Post by Mose »

Yesterday I got started finishing the RSES install because my clutch cable from Barnett had arrived. ($99.21 delivered by UPS)
I read through the written instructions and watched the video I got from Russ.
Once I had the cable attached to the ball & ramp assembly I wandered over to the other side of my lift to connect the lever to the other end of the cable.
It just didn't have enough slack to attach it!
So I took a break and then decided to disconnect the cable end inside the RSES and then attach the cable to the handlebar lever assembly.
Then I was able to attach the other end to the ball & ramp assembly.
The clutch now works!
But it will be a while before I'm ready to test because I still have parts to buy for my '51 Panhead.

Image

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58flh
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Re: Hanging with My RSES

#38

Post by 58flh »

Thanks for the heads-up on Russes units!--I think there neat & compact!,& A lot of guys I know are getting older with BAD KNEES!--This is the ticket!---However You don't have to be 290lbs. to kick a pan over!--My ol-Lady can kick her xlch over & that's harder then my pan!.--Shes 130lbs. & 1-hot & gone!.All you have to do is relax your leg from the 9-o-clock position!--NOT JUMP ON IT!--That just breaks the kicker covers inside!.--If your bike cannot start in 1-hot kick after 3-primer-kicks to get the fuel into the cyls. SOMETHINGS WRONG!----It should start in 1-kick in 30-degree weather!. & People looking at you got nothing to do with it!/--Must fix whats wrong!--& I usually find Vacuum-Leaks as the #1-culprit!.SO DONT JUMP ON the kickershaft with vengeance!--If all is in working order, its just easy as relaxing your leg & OFF you go.-----Respectfully----Richie
Mose
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Re: Hanging with My RSES

#39

Post by Mose »

My wife used to kick start my 68 Pan/Shovel with one kick every time. Just one primer kick to TDC and have it timed right. ;-)
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