No leg room
-
- Junior Member
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Wed Apr 25, 2012 4:55 pm
- Bikes: 37 ULH
59 FL tank shift
65 FL tank shift
83 FXR
42 WL - Has thanked: 1 time
No leg room
I'm tired of not any room for my right foot on the footboard due to the S&S carb that came on my 65. I wanted to go back to the Linkert but PO put on STD dual plug heads that use the shovel intake Y. What carb can I use with these heads/manifold to give me more room. I realize the outside oiler lines create a problem but am open to ideas would even trade my top end complete with exhaust (they use the 3 bolt shovel flange) for a stock set of heads. I have the original heads that have all been gone through but the machine shop decked them too much and it has about 15:1 cr.
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 889
- Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2012 5:35 pm
- Bikes: 1951 panhead , 1995 dyna
- Has thanked: 116 times
- Been thanked: 47 times
Re: No leg room
Why not look for some stock heads , and do it right from the start. Its much more difficult to try and get a mish mash of parts to work correctly, then to do it with the correct stuff. When I bought the Pan I have now, It had an SU carb on it, would you believe the cracked off som fins to fit it !!! To me thats unthinkable... I hope that SU is sitting on the bottom of the ocean right now! I suppose you could run a bendix carb...but what of your throttle, do you have a snap throttle ? I guess you would with an S&S... You could make that work with a pull grip.
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2405
- Joined: Wed Jul 07, 2010 4:28 am
- Bikes: 1950Panhead
- Location: USA
- Has thanked: 1 time
- Been thanked: 366 times
Re: No leg room
Cut/grid/remove the current flange and weld on a four bolt linkert flange.
Or make a 3 bolt/4 bolt adapter.
Jerry
Or make a 3 bolt/4 bolt adapter.
Jerry
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 1959
- Joined: Tue Nov 09, 2004 6:02 am
- Bikes: 1942 WLA Type III
Hybrid WL/KH bobber project.
58 FL - Location: Markt Einersheim, Bayern
- Has thanked: 975 times
- Been thanked: 259 times
- Contact:
Re: No leg room
Why can't you make a set of plates, using the cylinder base gasket as a pattern for a set of "spacer plates" to go under the cylinder bases to make up for the extra taken off the heads, then you could use them??
Seems like that would work for you, then you would not have to try and run stacked up headgaskets.
George
Seems like that would work for you, then you would not have to try and run stacked up headgaskets.
George
-
- Member
- Posts: 171
- Joined: Tue Jan 25, 2005 12:55 am
- Bikes: 1961 FL
2007 Kaw. Vulcan 2000 - Location: Western Mass
- Been thanked: 5 times
Re: No leg room
Like George said, S&S still makes a set of "stroker plates" to lengthen the cylinders on stroker engines. The used to make many different thicknesses, but now seem to only stock the 0.032" thick size, bolt pattern to fit beneath pan/shovel cylinders. Part # 93-2229, about $33.00/set.
-
- Junior Member
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Wed Apr 25, 2012 4:55 pm
- Bikes: 37 ULH
59 FL tank shift
65 FL tank shift
83 FXR
42 WL - Has thanked: 1 time
Re: No leg room
Thanks all for the replies. Hadn't thought about spacer plates but that seems like a good solution. Now, how do I determine how thick they need to be. The PO is the one that said the heads were decked too much and that he cc'd them and determined the cr to be around 15:1. How do I determine how much was actually milled off? Am anxious to get this 65 tank shift police bike back closer to near original form.
-
- Member
- Posts: 88
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 3:19 am
- Bikes: 1963 FLH
1983 XLX - Has thanked: 1 time
- Been thanked: 4 times
Re: No leg room
Plowboy,
I modified the backing plate of my S&S air
cleaner to allow me to use a new 7" round
nastalgia H-D air cleaner cover. It has a more
rounded contour, has a lower profile, and gets
rid of the S&S teardrop shape, which is where
my leg rides with the seat i have. I snagged
the entire nastalgia air cleaner assembly from
ebay for $30. Like new. And it looks sooo much
better. I don't have an original 7" round to
Compare it to, but i think it is almost identical,
except for the filter service instructions.
If you like, i can post a few pictures tonight.
Blaine...
I modified the backing plate of my S&S air
cleaner to allow me to use a new 7" round
nastalgia H-D air cleaner cover. It has a more
rounded contour, has a lower profile, and gets
rid of the S&S teardrop shape, which is where
my leg rides with the seat i have. I snagged
the entire nastalgia air cleaner assembly from
ebay for $30. Like new. And it looks sooo much
better. I don't have an original 7" round to
Compare it to, but i think it is almost identical,
except for the filter service instructions.
If you like, i can post a few pictures tonight.
Blaine...
-
- Site Admin
- Senior Member
- Posts: 3291
- Joined: Mon Jan 01, 2001 12:00 pm
- Bikes: 1954 FL
- Location: Holland
- Has thanked: 108 times
- Been thanked: 488 times
Re: No leg room
Yes, please, I also like to see how you did that.If you like, i can post a few pictures tonight.
-
- Member
- Posts: 88
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 3:19 am
- Bikes: 1963 FLH
1983 XLX - Has thanked: 1 time
- Been thanked: 4 times
Re: No leg room
Plowboy,
i tryed to duplicate your riders view picture. your intake appears to be longer, as your enrichener lever is more visible than mine, but you may be able to pick up 1/2"-3/4" with this setup, and definitely have room where the S&S teardrop was. My calf used to rest against it. I scribed a line on the back side to finish out a full circle and cut it off, i used a 2" right angle grinding disk and polishing 'cookies' to make it round. cut off the 2 other 'posts' as seen in the pictures. The 'cone' shape on the backing plate was larger than the Nastalgia filter element, but not by much, so i worked all the way around the 'cone' with a fresh 2" gringing disk, creating a nice flange for the filter to sit flat, yet still allowing the filter to be held on by the two front 'post' nubs and the filter nub towards the rear, as well as a small ledge all the way around the 'cone'. Finish it off nice with the polishing cookie.
Next is the challanging part. The filter cover mount. I used .095" music/hobby wire. It's the perfect diameter to wrap around the backing plate mounting screws, yet still fits 'in' the hole under the screw. Any smaller wire might not be strong enough, any larger wouldn't fit under the screw. You need to heat the wire dull red with a propane torch in order to bend it tight enough. If you get it too hot(bright yellow with sparks coming off it) it may become brittle. I used a pair of round nosed snap-ring plyers to twist the ends to shape while dull red, reheating as needed. Do not quench it during bending, checking and adjusting, or it may become brittle.
Then i welded a nut (1/4-20?) as shown. The cover side of the nut is 1" from the lip of the 'cone' near the mounting screws. At 1", the filter cover screw has a few turns of filter 'crush' before it bottoms out in the nut, then i can 'tighten the screw' while holding the filter cover, so the wire doesn't twist. I guess you could use a thinner filter element to allow the cover to sit on further, with a shorter 'wire mount' and modifying the enrichener handle. You can't get too much closer or you won't get enough air for top end.
Before I decided on using the music wire mount idea, I had thought about using a strip of steel, maybe 1/2' wide, bent into a shallow 'V', hole in the middle with a nut tacked on the back side, and drill and screw the ends of the 'V' to the 'cone' area.
If you'll notice in the pictures, cover 'center' is in the middle of the bore, in line with the 2 lower backing plate screws. I decided to go with the music wire as a means to minimize restriction. You never know when you might need it all.
I've got over 1000miles on it and haven't had to turn around and pick it up off of the road yet. if it does break, I may revert to plan A, as i am in no hurry to fab up another wire mount. Sorry guy's...but it took me 4 wires, 3 hours and a 6 pack to get this one right.
i tryed to duplicate your riders view picture. your intake appears to be longer, as your enrichener lever is more visible than mine, but you may be able to pick up 1/2"-3/4" with this setup, and definitely have room where the S&S teardrop was. My calf used to rest against it. I scribed a line on the back side to finish out a full circle and cut it off, i used a 2" right angle grinding disk and polishing 'cookies' to make it round. cut off the 2 other 'posts' as seen in the pictures. The 'cone' shape on the backing plate was larger than the Nastalgia filter element, but not by much, so i worked all the way around the 'cone' with a fresh 2" gringing disk, creating a nice flange for the filter to sit flat, yet still allowing the filter to be held on by the two front 'post' nubs and the filter nub towards the rear, as well as a small ledge all the way around the 'cone'. Finish it off nice with the polishing cookie.
Next is the challanging part. The filter cover mount. I used .095" music/hobby wire. It's the perfect diameter to wrap around the backing plate mounting screws, yet still fits 'in' the hole under the screw. Any smaller wire might not be strong enough, any larger wouldn't fit under the screw. You need to heat the wire dull red with a propane torch in order to bend it tight enough. If you get it too hot(bright yellow with sparks coming off it) it may become brittle. I used a pair of round nosed snap-ring plyers to twist the ends to shape while dull red, reheating as needed. Do not quench it during bending, checking and adjusting, or it may become brittle.
Then i welded a nut (1/4-20?) as shown. The cover side of the nut is 1" from the lip of the 'cone' near the mounting screws. At 1", the filter cover screw has a few turns of filter 'crush' before it bottoms out in the nut, then i can 'tighten the screw' while holding the filter cover, so the wire doesn't twist. I guess you could use a thinner filter element to allow the cover to sit on further, with a shorter 'wire mount' and modifying the enrichener handle. You can't get too much closer or you won't get enough air for top end.
Before I decided on using the music wire mount idea, I had thought about using a strip of steel, maybe 1/2' wide, bent into a shallow 'V', hole in the middle with a nut tacked on the back side, and drill and screw the ends of the 'V' to the 'cone' area.
If you'll notice in the pictures, cover 'center' is in the middle of the bore, in line with the 2 lower backing plate screws. I decided to go with the music wire as a means to minimize restriction. You never know when you might need it all.
I've got over 1000miles on it and haven't had to turn around and pick it up off of the road yet. if it does break, I may revert to plan A, as i am in no hurry to fab up another wire mount. Sorry guy's...but it took me 4 wires, 3 hours and a 6 pack to get this one right.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
-
- Member
- Posts: 88
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 3:19 am
- Bikes: 1963 FLH
1983 XLX - Has thanked: 1 time
- Been thanked: 4 times