Dry hydraulic unit installation

Top End (cylinders pushrods etc.)
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jbgoodner2
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Dry hydraulic unit installation

#1

Post by jbgoodner2 »

OK, I have searched the forums and cannot find a definitive answer. The Service Manual DOES NOT have clean, dry, installation instructions that I can find, and I'm sure that I read, in years gone by, how this is done properly, perhaps in the Clymer manual.
It was something like "turn the adjuster down until it bottoms out without lifting the valve, then turn it up..... ", 3 or 4 turns, or something like that. Does anyone have this info ? It would be a huge help !!! Thanks, and God Bless !!!!!
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Re: Dry hydraulic unit installation

#2

Post by Cotten »

JB!

On page 3D-3 of your '59-'69 Service Manual under "Checking Hydraulic Units", you will find clear instructions for washing and blowing the piston and cylinder clean and dry.

Beware of Clymer's.

....Cotten
jbgoodner2
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Re: Dry hydraulic unit installation

#3

Post by jbgoodner2 »

Yes Sir, I saw that. I am looking for instructions on INSTALLING them after that is done.The manual ONLY describes adjusting installed lifters, NOT dry installation. At least, not that I can find.....
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Re: Dry hydraulic unit installation

#4

Post by steve_wood »

Cotten
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Re: Dry hydraulic unit installation

#5

Post by Cotten »

JB!

Immediately following the "Checking Hydraulic Units" paragraph, is "Assembling Tappets" on the next page.
The final sentence in that passage is "Adjust tappet clearance as described in Section 3B-5."

The Manual's order of presentation sux, but the bottom line is that washed-and-dry'd units are required for the prescribed installation procedure.

....Cotten
jbgoodner2
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Re: Dry hydraulic unit installation

#6

Post by jbgoodner2 »

FYI....I installed Hyd. Crane units, so I called their service #, (which goes to S&S now). Installation instructions are...compress fully and turn up 1.5 turns. (with stock pushrods). Worked great .
58flh
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Re: Dry hydraulic unit installation

#7

Post by 58flh »

GUYS---I have found with different aftermarket HYD-units the settings are different as compared to STOCK!---I have had good results by putting in dry, then turn motor over untill tappet is at its lowest point on cam!--Then ADJ. for no up/down movement!--Now mark P-rod & count the turns until the lifter bottoms out -(just touches, dont gorrilla it). Then for EX. if it was 12 full turns -you want to go 6-turns back!,if 15 turns-then 7& a half back!. It has proven to work well for me!--If you find that 1 or 2 may have a tick, you can go another turn on the ones that are ticking!-(done). Now I just read that CRANE said to bottom them out & turn back 1& a half turns! & all was good!---Did you have to tell them what CAM you are using?---Anyway you should always follow the Manufacturers directions! for thier particular product!. Also REMEMBER to check that the GUIDE-OIL HOLES line-up PERFECTLY in reference to the hole in case!--I have seen new guides off by a few thous. & thats ALOT when it comes to those feed holes!-There TINY as is!-So no interference here is a BIG HELP for oil VOLUME getting to the HYD. UNITS!,& Clean out the witches-hat with carb.-cleaner & make-sure you install CORRECTLY!/per manual!. St.60wt. oil also is a good choice for HYD.-units. A coller is good to,-but not nessesary unless your in ARIZONA & day temps are 100+ is the norm.!, A good oil-filter is a must for HYD.-units. Solid Lifters are more forgiving!.But that Cushion effect of HYD-units is GREAT for yer top-end!--I changed more fragmented P-rods on solid lifters then I can count!--Never had a HYD.-unit fragment a cheap COLONY ALUM.-P-rod!,& most of the times the P-rods were set wrong!-no up/down & you could spin them with a air blower on your compressor!--They have to be TIGHT to the point where dry-fingers could barely spin them!--(after motor reaches op.-temp. they LOSSEN-UP! to where they should be).-I learned the hard-way also!.---Anyway hope this helps & Ride em dont hide em!---Respectfully---RICHIE 8)
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Re: Dry hydraulic unit installation

#8

Post by UPSROD »

An old guy years ago taught me to turn them upside down in oil, push the check ball down with an allen wrench and pump to fill them with oil. Then when on the low point of the cam take all of the slack out and turn down four turns, wait until you can spin the push rod freely and go to the next one. It has always worked perfectly.
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Re: Dry hydraulic unit installation

#9

Post by Cotten »

UPSROD wrote:An old guy years ago taught me to turn them upside down in oil, push the check ball down with an allen wrench and pump to fill them with oil. Then when on the low point of the cam take all of the slack out and turn down four turns, wait until you can spin the push rod freely and go to the next one. It has always worked perfectly.
UPSROD!

With all due respect to the elderly,
that defeats the whole purpose of the Service Manual directions.

If the unit has oil within it, it should resist turning the screw downward firmly.
That's how they work.
If oiled, even partially, they must be allowed a variable amount of time to "bleed down" before the adjustor can move downward.

That method has bent many a pushrod,
but I admit I have been forced to resort to it on the side of the road.

....Cotten
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Re: Dry hydraulic unit installation

#10

Post by UPSROD »

Cotton, as I said WAIT until you can spin the push rod.
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Re: Dry hydraulic unit installation

#11

Post by Cotten »

UPSROD wrote:Cotton, as I said WAIT until you can spin the push rod.
But UPSROD!

You said 'turn down four turns' before you said 'wait'.

Turning down with a full unit opens the valve,
(If you can turn it at all!)

....Cotten
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Re: Dry hydraulic unit installation

#12

Post by Holtvintage »

Here is what I think I've learned. I noticed that with a little effort I could screw the adjuster down with my fingers to overcome the hydraulic unit's spring tension. I could feel it bottoming out abruptly. To verify this ( for my own peace of mind) I took a open end wrench and pressed down at the adjuster to confirm no down play. Then i backed it off a 1/4 turn, checked downward and could feel movement. Now I know that by using just my fingers I could ( as the manual said " completely compressed " ) the unit. I again lengthened the adjuster till it bottomed out with my fingers and then shortened the adjuster 1-1/2 turns = 8 flats. To answer my own question, yes when properly adjusted I could spin the rod with my fingers. I couldn't precisely tell when the unit spring was fully compressed and the valve spring tension started by just using wrenches. I think i could tell i was getting valve spring tension but couldn't be sure when exactly. Hopefully this clarifies this task for the next novice shovelhead owner. If anyone with personal experience can clarify / correct something that I have written here please don't hesitate to say something. Thanks
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Re: Dry hydraulic unit installation

#13

Post by 59Panman »

HoltVintage

You should correct your post to say 9 flats so it is correct.

:)
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Re: Dry hydraulic unit installation

#14

Post by RooDog »

I wonder what the thread pitch is on your pushrod adjusters. The TPI will affect the number of turns to establish the sought after preload, which, by the way, is not a precision setting, most anything in the center of the hydraulic unit's travel range is acceptably. You don't want the lifter bottomed out, not do you want it fully extended once the engine reaches operating temp. This, after all, is not rocket surgery, it's just an old piece of 1950's tech with a lot of wiggle room. Don't pet the sweaty stuff.....
....RooDog....
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Re: Dry hydraulic unit installation

#15

Post by Buddhahoodvatoloco »

Man Roo, you be the Don Rickles of Wrenches.. :lol: :lol: Stay down, I just call them tractors.
I just use this chart. To get the flats, then do it like the book, Like they use to holler at a shop I visited, "It's in the book MF" :roll: :roll:
RooDog wrote: Sun Dec 01, 2019 10:15 pm I wonder what the thread pitch is on your pushrod adjusters. The TPI will affect the number of turns to establish the sought after preload, which, by the way, is not a precision setting, most anything in the center of the hydraulic unit's travel range is acceptably. You don't want the lifter bottomed out, not do you want it fully extended once the engine reaches operating temp. This, after all, is not rocket surgery, it's just an old piece of 1950's tech with a lot of wiggle room. Don't pet the sweaty stuff.....
....RooDog....
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