I'm having a hard time getting the rear header pipe to fit over the clutch release mount on the transmission. I've angled the pipe every which way. I even tried using a shorter nut on the arm, but the pipe still hits the post. I do have a sloppily repaired port on the rear head, but it should be at the correct angle, as I took off a stock of 2-1 squish exhaust. Any ideas and/or fixes?
1960 FL. Kraftech frame. Exhaust is Paughco 715b (standard upsweep, NOT the "over the transmission" set). The front header and squish fit on the money.
Picture is using a strap to pull the pipe off of the post, but is not even on the port.
Paughco Upsweep Fit
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Re: Paughco Upsweep Fit
JUST a guess--On the exhaust pipe itself where it slips over the ex.-spigot/IF you were to cut say 3/8s off the pipe!--(would you still be able to push the pipe to the head?-Or does it taper to the smaller dia. by that point?/Also if 3/8s wouldnt give you the clearence/You can always go to somebody who knows how to use a HYD. bender & make 2-bends to move the pipe more rearward or Forward of the trans./Or cut out what you need & re-weld the pipe!-but that will mean even more grinding & chroming to look good!//Would moving the trans forward help??-you can take a link out of the Primary-chain.& that seems like the best move --unless your running a belt.--Also you did not mention how much of the pipe is hitting the post???/--Respectfully----RICHIE
Re: Paughco Upsweep Fit
Richie-58flh wrote:JUST a guess--On the exhaust pipe itself where it slips over the ex.-spigot/IF you were to cut say 3/8s off the pipe!--(would you still be able to push the pipe to the head?-Or does it taper to the smaller dia. by that point?/Also if 3/8s wouldnt give you the clearence/You can always go to somebody who knows how to use a HYD. bender & make 2-bends to move the pipe more rearward or Forward of the trans./Or cut out what you need & re-weld the pipe!-but that will mean even more grinding & chroming to look good!//Would moving the trans forward help??-you can take a link out of the Primary-chain.& that seems like the best move --unless your running a belt.--Also you did not mention how much of the pipe is hitting the post???/--Respectfully----RICHIE
Thanks for the reply. It's hitting right at the bend in the pipe. Would need to get another 1/2" of vertical clearance. Cutting some length off of the flange is not a bad idea, not sure that I'll have enough meat to take off and still get a good seal. Will look.
Not into the idea of chopping into a brand new set of pipes- more so as I've just received parts back from the platers.
Belt primary. Just reinstalled transmission and primary drive. Belt has proper tension and runs true.
Considering cutting some threads off of the arm post and hoping it doesn't need any more movement up and down than where it's at now. Really hate messing with stock stuff though, no matter how small.
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Re: Paughco Upsweep Fit
Put pipe on bike then use marker to identify area needing adjustment. Remove pipe from bike and take carful aim, and with a big swing of the ballpeen hammer you now have a custom pipe that fits.
Good luck
Good luck
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Re: Paughco Upsweep Fit
What 1962FLH said.....
did this with a pair of Santee pipes to get them to fit.
Really don't notice the dent from looking at the top, as the dent is underneath.
- Dave
did this with a pair of Santee pipes to get them to fit.
Really don't notice the dent from looking at the top, as the dent is underneath.
- Dave
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Re: Paughco Upsweep Fit
cheezer,
I'd attribute the pipe interference to the angle that the exhaust port repair stub was welded at. I've got a set of similar upsweep pipes and they normally come pretty close to contacting the release finger stud. I've seen heads with exhaust port repairs where the stubs were welded on cock-eyed and it can be a real pain-in-the-ass. There is about 8" inches between the rear exhaust port and the release finger stud. For every degree that the repaired stub is off, at 8" inches out from the head (right at the location of release stud) the pipe moves more than 1/8". To further complicate things , there are two axis's (planes?) so the pipe could be angled to the right, and at the same time also angled down. It adds up in a hurry!!
For making adjustments on exhaust pipes I make up a holding fixture. I just take a piece of 2" x 4" and hole saw a 1-3/4" hole in the middle of the 4" face, and then cut that piece right down the middle so you end up with 2 pieces with half circle in each. I make up two pairs of blocks like that (I suppose you could make them out of 4" x 4") and then use them to clamp the exhaust pipe so its immobilized, then stick a length of 1-1/4" pipe in the end of the exhaust pipe for a cheater, and bend away. Sometimes you have to get a little creative with the way you clamp the exhaust pipe down to immobilize it, but this method works like a charm for small adjustments. When you install those pipes you'll want to secure them really good and solid, because loose exhaust pipes is the reason those exhaust stubs get worn out in the first place! Good Luck.
Geo.
I'd attribute the pipe interference to the angle that the exhaust port repair stub was welded at. I've got a set of similar upsweep pipes and they normally come pretty close to contacting the release finger stud. I've seen heads with exhaust port repairs where the stubs were welded on cock-eyed and it can be a real pain-in-the-ass. There is about 8" inches between the rear exhaust port and the release finger stud. For every degree that the repaired stub is off, at 8" inches out from the head (right at the location of release stud) the pipe moves more than 1/8". To further complicate things , there are two axis's (planes?) so the pipe could be angled to the right, and at the same time also angled down. It adds up in a hurry!!
For making adjustments on exhaust pipes I make up a holding fixture. I just take a piece of 2" x 4" and hole saw a 1-3/4" hole in the middle of the 4" face, and then cut that piece right down the middle so you end up with 2 pieces with half circle in each. I make up two pairs of blocks like that (I suppose you could make them out of 4" x 4") and then use them to clamp the exhaust pipe so its immobilized, then stick a length of 1-1/4" pipe in the end of the exhaust pipe for a cheater, and bend away. Sometimes you have to get a little creative with the way you clamp the exhaust pipe down to immobilize it, but this method works like a charm for small adjustments. When you install those pipes you'll want to secure them really good and solid, because loose exhaust pipes is the reason those exhaust stubs get worn out in the first place! Good Luck.
Geo.
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Re: Paughco Upsweep Fit
Could you take a die grinder and remove a little off the spigot where you have interference preventing correct alignment?