You're not the only guy in the world who shims shift drum end-float, it is a Factory recommended procedure in 40-47 SM, but not mentioned in some later SM.
In my experience, as dismantled, Shift Drum end-float seldom exceeds 0.015", which, whilst excessive, IMHO will not cause a shift problem in one specific gear, which is what poster patrolcustoms / Patrick is experiencing.
patrolcustoms / Patrick.
I carefully re-read all your posts, and see by your description re changing springs, that apparently you are using a footshift trans top (ratchet lid) and also foot-clutch. Are you using hand shift, tank lever & gate, or jockey lever?
This is why we like pictures, so we can see what you have and don't have to ask you unnecessary questions.
Inside ratchet mechanism, is 34560-52 ADAPTER PLATE notch correctly aligned with notch of 34453-52 SHIFTER SHAFT?
- Adaptor plate alignment.jpg (170.75 KiB) Viewed 242 times
What I do:
Install follower/detent assembly (lubed), with detent assembled, cam/drum MUST BE in 3rd gear detent position. NOTE: Factory manuals all state "any gear other than neutral", however, in my experience, if timed in 1st or 2nd this can result in upshift undershifts to 3rd & 4th, which are longer fork travel than 1-2, the spring-loaded detent actually does the final movement of cam/drum, after the actual “shift”, not good, prone to missed shifts. IMO Timing the Adaptor Plate in 3rd helps ensure cam is fully positioned by pawls, thus minimising chance of undershifts.
Adaptor Plate timing notch must be perfectly aligned to notch in shifter shaft, adjust, then tighten the ¼” x 20 TPI screw in slotted hole of Adaptor Plate, re-check to ensure plate has not moved during screw tightening. This screw just holds adaptor plate until the rest of footshift mechanism is assembled, the long countersunk 3/16" screws into lid casting do most of the work of preventing subsequent movement of adaptor plate.
If you wish to first shim end-float of cam/drum
For many years MoCo spec Cam/Drum end-float was .0005”- .0065” (40-47 SM Free to .005"; later SM state .0005”- .007”), these days most are worn to .010”-.012”, not much can be done except a thin shim (40-47 SM states “make a shim”, this instruction deleted from some later SMs, usually a nominal 3/8” x ¾” x .005” shim does the trick. Shims in various thicknesses are available from commercial suppliers. Install shim at gear end, using a dummy round-nosed shaft to centralize shim, carefully push real shaft through shim, the trick is getting the shaft seal entered into lid without shim dropping into groove for screw. Holding lid with shaft vertical in soft-jawed vise helps. As does using an industrial #009 o-ring for shaft seal (not too tight, shaft can be pushed in without shim-displacing violence, but must check o-ring crush, seal groove depths in shafts sometimes vary).
Early ratchet lid castings have no shaft hole on Left side, also some aftermarket lid castings have no shaft hole on Right side (for "smooth" custom look), cannot “push-through” the above dummy shaft, have to centralize shim with dummy shaft, withdraw dummy shaft, insert real shaft without misaligning shim, PITA. Circa 68-78 OE and some repro lids have shaft hole drilled right through and dummy shaft can be pushed through with real shaft. Circa 68 lids at Left side have counterbore and originally a Welch plug closed off shaft hole (Hogey's lid is like this), later OE lids have plain, nominal 3/8" hole which is closed off by Adaptor Plate and its gasket.
Also, how much clearance do you have at your 34498-52 BUSHING, pawl carrier, to 34453-52 SHIFTER SHAFT ?
No H-D clearance spec, I like minimum 0.001”- maximum 0.002” and lube with Moly grease.
Nifty
