1962 Servi-Car - No Power

[PastorErik1]

Just bought a 1962 Servi-Car in "Not running" condition. I was able to get her running and she starts and runs fine. But, true to what the former owner told me, it has no power. I let it warm up and tried to back it out of my garage and it didn't have enough power to do that. It rolls easily so I know its not an issue with brakes or anything like that.

It has a Mikuni carb and it seems to work fine. It idles nicely and when revving it sounds good with no backfiring or anything like that. Sounds like its ready to go.... But it doesn't have any power to move.

I have been reading this forum a lot and appreciate the knowledge and experience found here.

I know that there is no simple answer to my issue and that it could be a lot of things causing it. I am looking for advice on where to start.

Thanks in advance.

[RUBONE]

Just bought a 1962 Servi-Car in "Not running" condition. I was able to get her running and she starts and runs fine. But, true to what the former owner told me, it has no power. I let it warm up and tried to back it out of my garage and it didn't have enough power to do that. It rolls easily so I know its not an issue with brakes or anything like that.

It has a Mikuni carb and it seems to work fine. It idles nicely and when revving it sounds good with no backfiring or anything like that. Sounds like its ready to go.... But it doesn't have any power to move.

I have been reading this forum a lot and appreciate the knowledge and experience found here.

I know that there is no simple answer to my issue and that it could be a lot of things causing it. I am looking for advice on where to start.

Thanks in advance.

Is the clutch engaging?

[kitabel]

Advance the spark

[PastorErik1]

Thanks for your replies.....Yeah, the clutch is engaging, it was stalling out. The spark was advanced.

Update: After posting the question, it came to me to check to see that both cylinders were firing...sure enough the rear cylinder was not. I pulled a trick out of my old Sportster days and pulled to plug wire off a little and it began to fire. I pulled the plug and it was in good shape except fuel fouled. I cleaned it of and switched the plugs when I put them back in. Fired it up and it sounded great....a little misfire in the rear cylinder once in a while. I was able to back her out of the garage and uphill onto my road and take her for a little blast...felt good.... Now to figure out what the problem is/was with it...figure I'll change the points, condenser, plugs and wires for starters....What do you guys think?

[Andygears]

Do a compression test, new spark plugs, nice fresh gas, is where I would start. Foot clutch? Make sure it fully engages, inspect chains, check trans oil.

Andygears

[kitabel]

Sorry, even after riding for over 50 years, I'm still amazed at how many riders cannot tell an engine running on one cylinder.

[PastorErik1]

Well, I didn't pick up on it right away....been a long time since I've had a 45....but at least I did figure it out.

[kitabel]

As we used to say, "a twin running on one cylinder does a well as a bird with one wing".

The important thing is that you persevered and found the problem: have fun with it.

[PastorErik1]

Ok. changed the plugs and both cylinders are firing now.

While I had the plugs out I did a compression test, but I don't think I did it right. I didn't have the throttle open....What I did: I ran it out of gas, then connected the tester, and kicked it until the gauge stopped going up, probably 7 or 8 times. The reading was almost exactly the same on both cylinders, about 80 psi. Was going to do it again, but figured I'd wait to get the proper procedure from you guys. I did not do a leak down, not sure of the procedure for that either, but the needle wasn't moving down, at least in 10 seconds or so...

After reinstalling the plugs I started it and let it idle and sprayed some carb cleaner around the intake, and it revved up a bit, so clearly I also have an intake leak. I do not have a wrench big enough to check the tightness of the manifold nuts, but when I get one, I'll go ahead and replace the packings.

Also has exhaust leaks. I didn't see any kind of gaskets in the parts book. Am I missing something?

[RUBONE]

No exhaust gaskets in the system. High heat RTV silicone helps but will still eventually burn out. Then re-apply!
Manifold wrench can be had from any major automotive tool seller. You don't need the factory replica type. It is 1-7/8". (see the" Tight Clearance" wrench in the link https://www.mcmaster.com/wrenches/size~1-875inches/). You should consider Peek seals, available from several sources. Also the manifold sealing area must be smooth and flat.
That compression is pretty good for a 45, especially being so similar front to back.

[PastorErik1]

Thanks for your reply and advice! So is the way I did the compression test ok? What about leak down?

[RUBONE]

Thanks for your reply and advice! So is the way I did the compression test ok? What about leak down?

Your test was fine. Open throttle may show a couple more points, or maybe not. Leakdown is used primarily when there is an oiling issue,or when a poor compression test needs more specific info on a weak cylinder. It can show bad rings, burnt valves, etc. Keep in mind a stock "G" engine is only 4.75-1 compression so compression test results will be fairly low relative to other engines.

[PastorErik1]

Tested it again with the throttle wide open, pretty much the same results, about 80psi in both cylinders. After I got both cylinders firing, I took it down the road and it felt good to me. I know they are not a powerhouse. Thinking I may still pull the heads and inspect the cylinders, etc.