I cannot get my clutch adjusted correctly, no matter how many manuals I read & follow.
I do not know where my clutch plates came from, that were installed some 25-30 years ago.
There is meat on the discs, but I think I should just replace them with known quality goods.
I suspect my metal discs are fine.
I see Barnett, Eastern, York as options.
Any thoughts?
And...
Do I need to seek some version versus others?
I ask as I read somewhere....
""To the best of my knowledge all the 45 racing models like the WR used the earlier narrow clutch, check your own reference materials to be sure."
I have just a regular WL solo model; so I suspect any old STOCK purchase will suffice.
Thanks!
1949 WL - Clutch Replacement
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Re: 1949 WL - Clutch Replacement
Just what is it your clutch won't do?
Does it disengage so you can shift, stay disengaged at the lights without crawling or dropping revs?
Does it engage properly, so it won't slip whilst kicking the bike or when opening the throttle?
You say 'enough meat' but how thick are they rally?
Are the rivets still under the surface..?
Please give some more info..
Does it disengage so you can shift, stay disengaged at the lights without crawling or dropping revs?
Does it engage properly, so it won't slip whilst kicking the bike or when opening the throttle?
You say 'enough meat' but how thick are they rally?
Are the rivets still under the surface..?
Please give some more info..
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Re: 1949 WL - Clutch Replacement
Well after sending this, my friend cleaned the discs (there was gunk on them) & they to be adjusting normally now.
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Re: 1949 WL - Clutch Replacement
Will know later this week.
The job is totally in the way of the fun!
The job is totally in the way of the fun!
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Re: 1949 WL - Clutch Replacement
Thanks for keeping us posted.
I need to clean my clutch pack too....
....RooDog....
I need to clean my clutch pack too....
....RooDog....
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Re: 1949 WL - Clutch Replacement
Had no idea that cleaning the clutch plates would allow the clutch adjusting nuts to reveal 3 threads of the studs once adjusted correctly VERSUS the studs threads being deep within the nuts. Now trying to get the various adjustments even better so it drops into all gears as smooth as possible.
Thanks!
Thanks!