V twin mfg heads

[thebeast]

While my oem panheads are getting repaired, I’ve got a pair of v twin heads I plan on running temporarily.Most likely for months.
These heads are threaded for long reach plugs.
Is the N12Y(or equivalent) the plug I should use with these heads?
Thanks,James

[RooDog]

For how many months?
I would suggest replacing the red springs that come with those heads. Several members here have had problems with them. Even a god set of used OE springs are better the what comes with those heads. Or, do you feel lucky, well do ya'.....?

[awander]

The search function on this site works pretty well.

http://hydra-glide.net/phpBB3/viewtopic ... yc#p140912

[Excalibur]

N12Y

Yes or at least it's what I use in my S.T.D. heads which have a 3/4" reach plug hole. Earlier I ran an equivalent but I prefer Champion. I run more plug gap but only because of electronic ignitors.

[thebeast]

Thanks for the replies. Awander, don’t ask me how I missed that topic.
I’ll try the Champions after checking the clearance. I’ve got the stock timer, so I reckon I’ll gap em at .040
James

[awander]

.040 seems a little wide to me.

[RooDog]

The main drawback to wide plug gap is the plug wires. The spark is going to seek the path of least resistance, and a wide plug gap combined with marginal wires will likely lead to the spark firing out through the bad insulation to the nearest ground. Remember compression pressures increase the resistance across the gap making a poor wires and crappy insulation an attractive target for miss fire....
....RooDog....

[thebeast]

RooDog, this is the kind of information I need. I have no idea what plugs or gap to use with these heads.
Surely someone out there are using these heads on their pan.
Vtwin says use shovel head plugs. So what plug at what gap?
Thanks James

[awander]

mine are gapped between 0.025 and 0.030

[Mongrel505558]

.025" - .028" for me.

I'm running a pair of V-Twin heads right now, and these heads use short reach plugs. I run Autolite 4275's - mostly because they're readily available, but the equivalent Champion and NGK plugs work just fine for me, too.

I don't know how your heads are set up, but don't try to run a hot cam unless you check valve installed heights, coil bind heights' etc. and end up with at least .060" clearance at maximum lift. Check valve-to-valve clearance, too. I had a bad experience with the springs just running a J-grind with a .460" lift. Otherwise the heads have been working out well for me.

[thebeast]

Mongrel, I’m running a J cam also. Stock compression pistons. Are your heads threaded for a longer reach plug ?
A plug with the electrode closer to, or at the combustion chamber instead of recessed, would burn a little more efficiently? Possibly easier starting?
I want to thank everyone for their replies.
James

[Mongrel505558]

Mongrel, I’m running a J cam also. Stock compression pistons. Are your heads threaded for a longer reach plug ?
A plug with the electrode closer to, or at the combustion chamber instead of recessed, would burn a little more efficiently? Possibly easier starting?
I want to thank everyone for their replies.
James

I have to use short reach plugs in my heads. The electrodes sit right where they should. I like long reach plugs like the later shovels use better simply because there are more threads in the heads so they last longer (the head threads), but these heads can't use those. My bike starts pretty easily. When cold I give it one prime kick (Super B - enrichener on and ignition off). Then I turn the enrichener off and the ignition on and it usually starts in one or two kicks. When hot I skip the prime kick and just turn the ignition on and give it a boot. When really hot I might have to hold the throttle wide open and give it a kick with the ignition off and then wait about 15 seconds. Then I can turn the ignition and and kick it and it'll start right up. Not sure why that is - every kickstarted Harley has different rituals for different temperatures.

Jim