Breaking her in
Confidence
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Breaking her in
Well fellow riders,
I’ve had quite a time with this bike so far. In the beginning it was very hard to start. I went through did the timing over and over, it could still be better. Now she starts pretty easy when she’s cold, but I have yet to master starting her when she’s Luke warm or hot. I’ve been taking small trips trying to gain confidence to go further and further. Today I think I will push it a little, and see how I fare. She definitely likes to run rich…
Uzziyahoo
I’ve had quite a time with this bike so far. In the beginning it was very hard to start. I went through did the timing over and over, it could still be better. Now she starts pretty easy when she’s cold, but I have yet to master starting her when she’s Luke warm or hot. I’ve been taking small trips trying to gain confidence to go further and further. Today I think I will push it a little, and see how I fare. She definitely likes to run rich…
Uzziyahoo
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Re: Breaking her in
What have you got for a carburetor?
Harley would have not remained in business for over 100 years if their bike were typically hard to start....
Harley would have not remained in business for over 100 years if their bike were typically hard to start....
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Re: Breaking her in
Are your plugs fouled with gas? You say it's hard to start. Wet or carbon coated plugs make for very difficult starting. Also, it's not uncommon for a bike to start easily when cold and not so easily when hot. RooDog already asked about the carburetor, so I'll go in another direction: are you running solid lifters or hydraulic? If solids are adjusted too tight a valve or more may not close all the way after the engine is warmed up and the pushrods have expanded. That will make it almost impossible to start the bike. Hydraulics are more forgiving. How about ignition? Do you have good spark (assuming the plugs are not fouled)?
As was pointed out, Harley couldn't sell these bikes for almost 120 years if you couldn't get them started at the dealership with a minimum number of kicks. And on the subject of kicks - every bike has its own unique starting procedure, but all have this in common: when cold, give it a couple of priming kicks with the choke closed (depending on the outside temperature) and the ignition off. Then turn on the ignition, find compression with the kicker, and give it a good boot. When hot, skip the choke and priming kicks - just turn the key on and kick. Try opening the throttle just a little. If it takes more than two or three kicks you could flood the motor. Turn it off, slowly (if you have an accelerator pump) open the throttle all the way and kick it through to clear the excess fuel. Then wait a few seconds, turn the ignition back on, and try again.
I know that reply seems all over the place, but an easy starting and well running bike depends on a lot of factors being dialed in.
Jim
As was pointed out, Harley couldn't sell these bikes for almost 120 years if you couldn't get them started at the dealership with a minimum number of kicks. And on the subject of kicks - every bike has its own unique starting procedure, but all have this in common: when cold, give it a couple of priming kicks with the choke closed (depending on the outside temperature) and the ignition off. Then turn on the ignition, find compression with the kicker, and give it a good boot. When hot, skip the choke and priming kicks - just turn the key on and kick. Try opening the throttle just a little. If it takes more than two or three kicks you could flood the motor. Turn it off, slowly (if you have an accelerator pump) open the throttle all the way and kick it through to clear the excess fuel. Then wait a few seconds, turn the ignition back on, and try again.
I know that reply seems all over the place, but an easy starting and well running bike depends on a lot of factors being dialed in.
Jim
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Re: Breaking her in
Thanks for the insight, it’s an old linckart original Carburetor. She fires right up when she’s cold two prime kicks and then one kick with the ignition on. Then if I’m going somewhere I just let her cool all the way down, then it’ll start right back up, but if she’s lukewarm she don’t wanna go. She ran real nice today no sputters no hiccups I think I’ve got the carburetor closer to dialed in. Got some grease and grease gun today, going around and luben Her up. What a great day so far… I will check the plugs, but their new, and so are the wires.
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Re: Breaking her in
Sorry forgot to put in what kind of lifters. I believe they’re solid maybe I should consider going hydraulic but they don’t seem too tight and I’m just breaking her in from a new top end so she’s probably got 120 miles now.
Thank you
Thank you
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Re: Breaking her in
I would not go to the effort to change back to hydraulic lifters.
1) AM lifters are not trustworthy, or way too expensive for little or no benefit.
& 2) Solids work just fine, and I don't find them to be noisy at all in either the 1950 Pan I recently built, I even left then 1/4 turn loose just to see how that sounded, and never went back to tighten them to zero lash,. Or in my '68 Shovelhead. Either I'm just lucky, or have no clue, and I've been doing this shit since 1967.....
....RooDog....
1) AM lifters are not trustworthy, or way too expensive for little or no benefit.
& 2) Solids work just fine, and I don't find them to be noisy at all in either the 1950 Pan I recently built, I even left then 1/4 turn loose just to see how that sounded, and never went back to tighten them to zero lash,. Or in my '68 Shovelhead. Either I'm just lucky, or have no clue, and I've been doing this shit since 1967.....
....RooDog....
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Re: Breaking her in
About the best aftermarket hydraulic lifters I know of are Velva-Touch, but they cost a fortune. I've bought used cars for less. I have them in my panhead and they keep on doing what they're supposed to do after 25 years, but even when I bought them way back then they were over 700 bucks. Now they're at least double that. Stick with the solids. If they're adjusted right they're just fine - probably better than most hydraulics.
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Re: Breaking her in
How's your bike set up? Is it a 100 point restoration, just an old Harley & rider, or maybe a chopper/bobber?
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Re: Breaking her in
I believe that it’s all stock, with the top end rebuilt, but I’m new to the bike, the previous owner has passed on, but it seems he took good care of her though had a great ride today, and I’m out again tonight…
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Re: Breaking her in
If you're struggling with hot starts, try the " clear it out and start over" technique.
Step 1, Ignition off, wide open throttle, kick through at least 3 compressions (or more). The object is to get it back to having zero fuel in cylinders.
Step 2, Close throttle and open it just a smidgeon, the equivalent of a fast idle. Ignition on. Kick it like you mean it. Typically takes one (or sometimes 2) kicks.
I used this very technique just this week when a fellow rider stalled his '52. He kicked and kicked and kicked until he couldn't. I immediately cleared it (step 1), then added correct amount of fuel (step 2) and boom!
Hope it helps
Step 1, Ignition off, wide open throttle, kick through at least 3 compressions (or more). The object is to get it back to having zero fuel in cylinders.
Step 2, Close throttle and open it just a smidgeon, the equivalent of a fast idle. Ignition on. Kick it like you mean it. Typically takes one (or sometimes 2) kicks.
I used this very technique just this week when a fellow rider stalled his '52. He kicked and kicked and kicked until he couldn't. I immediately cleared it (step 1), then added correct amount of fuel (step 2) and boom!
Hope it helps
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Re: Breaking her in
My .02
IMHO too many variables here.
Did you purchase this sweet bike some 120mls ago or did you do a top end job a 120mls ago and owned it before ?
Without knowing I`d opt for a full service first (reg the engine) before expanding the mileage
With a top end job done recently, retightening the heads comes to my mind first.
Being a `53 there should be an oil screen in the oil flow.
Next checking the valves accordingly.
Then setting the ignition observing the proper procedures which applies to your type of ignition.
Adjusting the carb without knowing that the manifold is airtight is like chasing one`s tail.
The hard starting once hot is a usual tell tale sign for a leaking manifold.
But with a 120mls experience under your belt I wouldn`t worry too much about a leaking manifold and you will find your procedure pretty soon.
In my M-74B Linkert there are aftermarket needles fitted and the taper of them isn`t correct, I believe ...
Therefore the number of "clicks" used as a reference mentioned in the book don`t apply to me.
BTW: The adjustment of the old rubber ducky float caused me fits until I installed a new rubber ducky
"Clearing cylinder" outlined by Excalibur works on any 4-stroke petrol engine.
On the other hand, kickstaring a luke warm, big bore engine is something I always want to avoid and mine starts easy no matter
if stone cold or blazing hot.
Ray
IMHO too many variables here.
Did you purchase this sweet bike some 120mls ago or did you do a top end job a 120mls ago and owned it before ?
Without knowing I`d opt for a full service first (reg the engine) before expanding the mileage
With a top end job done recently, retightening the heads comes to my mind first.
Being a `53 there should be an oil screen in the oil flow.
Next checking the valves accordingly.
Then setting the ignition observing the proper procedures which applies to your type of ignition.
Adjusting the carb without knowing that the manifold is airtight is like chasing one`s tail.
The hard starting once hot is a usual tell tale sign for a leaking manifold.
But with a 120mls experience under your belt I wouldn`t worry too much about a leaking manifold and you will find your procedure pretty soon.
In my M-74B Linkert there are aftermarket needles fitted and the taper of them isn`t correct, I believe ...
Therefore the number of "clicks" used as a reference mentioned in the book don`t apply to me.
BTW: The adjustment of the old rubber ducky float caused me fits until I installed a new rubber ducky
"Clearing cylinder" outlined by Excalibur works on any 4-stroke petrol engine.
On the other hand, kickstaring a luke warm, big bore engine is something I always want to avoid and mine starts easy no matter
if stone cold or blazing hot.
Ray
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Re: Breaking her in
[quote=Excalibur post_id=151632 time=1643432021 user_id=7734]
If you're struggling with hot starts, try the " clear it out and start over" technique.
Step 1, Ignition off, wide open throttle, kick through at least 3 compressions (or more). The object is to get it back to having zero fuel in cylinders.
Step 2, Close throttle and open it just a smidgeon, the equivalent of a fast idle. Ignition on. Kick it like you mean it. Typically takes one (or sometimes 2) kicks.
I used this very technique just this week when a fellow rider stalled his '52. He kicked and kicked and kicked until he couldn't. I immediately cleared it (step 1), then added correct amount of fuel (step 2) and boom!
Hope it helps
[/quote
When my 63 is hot it will start on first kick 99% of the time. When it does not i use the same method Excalibur uses and it works every time.
If you're struggling with hot starts, try the " clear it out and start over" technique.
Step 1, Ignition off, wide open throttle, kick through at least 3 compressions (or more). The object is to get it back to having zero fuel in cylinders.
Step 2, Close throttle and open it just a smidgeon, the equivalent of a fast idle. Ignition on. Kick it like you mean it. Typically takes one (or sometimes 2) kicks.
I used this very technique just this week when a fellow rider stalled his '52. He kicked and kicked and kicked until he couldn't. I immediately cleared it (step 1), then added correct amount of fuel (step 2) and boom!
Hope it helps
[/quote
When my 63 is hot it will start on first kick 99% of the time. When it does not i use the same method Excalibur uses and it works every time.
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Re: Breaking her in
Dealing with sidevalves has led me to be harsh and strict about air leaks.You said the bike likes to run more on the rich side, and that could mean a leaky manifold. If the top end was done recently it may just be a matter of re-tightening bolts and manifold nuts, as mentioned. I usually use PEEK seals on pre-o'ring manifolds, they seal a lot better as long as the manifold is in a good shape. Some years ago a friend was with his Knuckle showing the same symptoms, asking for more gas and wearing out his knee when starting hot, it was a huge air leak in the intake manifold, don't remember front or rear cylinder. OHVs tend to be more forgiving than flatheads, but keeping going like this for long can cost you a top end rebuild. Make sure everything is tight, cylinders and heads must be flat at the gasket surfaces and if at all possible, do a pressure test. Air leaks can happen between heads and cylinders, spark plug holes, manifold/cylinders and manifold/carb. Good luck, hope you solve it soon.
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Re: Breaking her in
You do not give info on timing is it still hand adjust with cable on left handle bar internal spiral if so you have to find its best spot slightly retarded when warm,and hot, position of timer to flywheel mark ,you say top end head work only or full top end new rings and new pistons all makes a difference
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Re: Breaking her in
Yes it is left grip control advance/retard… also the advice is helping restart her after she is warm… thank you… Went on a nice ride last night, but my headlight quit on me on the way home, other than that she purred….