Dual Points Question

[Lowbikemike]

There is a difference between setting the point gap and adjusting timing.

Adjusting point gap is done while the fiber follower is on the highest point of the circuit breaker lobe. That is only the first step in the process.

Are you stopping there or are you completing the rest of the timing process per the factory service manual?

Are you using a HD manual or another source?

My guess is that you are getting different results with your test light because one set of points are not opening at the right time.

[RooDog]

Why is it that no one ever identifies these mysterious "well known" or "reputable" men behind the curtain who do work for other people? Just a wondering thought.....
....RooDog....

[panhead_kicker]

Sorry Jon, I should have added more information. Your bike will run very well on the dual point timer(circuit breaker). I have a 64 flh which I installed the OEM circuit breaker on a few years back, and In my opinion it runs as well (if not better) than with a single point. Once you've dealt with it and understand the maintenance of double points, there be no need (or want!) to change your bike from its stock circuit breaker to a single , or to electronics.

As noted above by others, there is a procedure in the service manual to correctly time and adjust the rear points. Have you re-read that section? I understand it tells you to set the rear points to .022; that is your beginning gap, but typically not the final gap after following the timing procedure.

In regard to the timing lamp, I think you may have misunderstood its use. The lamp is used in a "static" timing situation (I.E. the motor is not running). The information it provides is to the moment of opening of the points, because that is where you set timing to. This static method can get the timing very close and is typically used as a literal starting point when a bike is being maintenanced from a non-running state.
A timing light gun is used on a running motor, to fine tune the timing as necessary.

I hope this helps a bit. Stick with it, sounds like you're almost there!

[jon1]

Sorry Jon, I should have added more information. Your bike will run very well on the dual point timer(circuit breaker). I have a 64 flh which I installed the OEM circuit breaker on a few years back, and In my opinion it runs as well (if not better) than with a single point. Once you've dealt with it and understand the maintenance of double points, there be no need (or want!) to change your bike from its stock circuit breaker to a single , or to electronics.

As noted above by others, there is a procedure in the service manual to correctly time and adjust the rear points. Have you re-read that section? I understand it tells you to set the rear points to .022; that is your beginning gap, but typically not the final gap after following the timing procedure.

In regard to the timing lamp, I think you may have misunderstood its use. The lamp is used in a "static" timing situation (I.E. the motor is not running). The information it provides is to the moment of opening of the points, because that is where you set timing to. This static method can get the timing very close and is typically used as a literal starting point when a bike is being maintenanced from a non-running state.
A timing light gun is used on a running motor, to fine tune the timing as necessary.

I hope this helps a bit. Stick with it, sounds like you're almost there!

I have not had a chance to get back to work on bike as priorities have had to be redirected lately. But I see the error in my process and look forward to spending some quality time in the garage soon.

[jon1]

Okay, Here is what I've done and found.
1. Pulled the distributor and ran new wires to the coils. (Some wires were broken in the loom).
2. Replaced Positive battery wire. (Badly Broken in the Loom and apparently grounding to frame occasionally as Copper Ground was welded to frame).
3. Pulled a new wire set to the generator and terminal block
4. Set Points to 0.18 instead of 0.22and adjusted timing according to my Clymers manual.
5. Cranked the bike 1st kick and rode it about 5 miles before I remembered that I didn't polarize the battery and headed back home.
Conclusion: The bike is running a lot better and taking hills better as well. While riding I also richened the High Side on the carb about 8 clicks. I noticed a little improvement, but some.
I still do not think its where it should be, but it is a lot better.
I may take the dual points back to 0.22 to see what that does.
Thanks for Everyone's input....Jon

[RUBONE]

Jon,
You still seem to be missing the rear cylinder timing. With the points for the front cylinder set at .022 you set the timing for it. Then you get ready to set the rear cylinder timing, which is set by changing the points gap to allow them to just begin opening when the rear cylinder mark is in the hole. So the points end up being different gaps, just the way the set-up works.
And Clymer manuals work best as bird cage liners. The factory manual is in the documentation section of this site.
Robbie

[jon1]

Jon,
You still seem to be missing the rear cylinder timing. With the points for the front cylinder set at .022 you set the timing for it. Then you get ready to set the rear cylinder timing, which is set by changing the points gap to allow them to just begin opening when the rear cylinder mark is in the hole. So the points end up being different gaps, just the way the set-up works.
And Clymer manuals work best as bird cage liners. The factory manual is in the documentation section of this site.
Robbie

Thanks for the Help. Believe it or not, I'm making progress. Just finished rebuilding front forks, one was clean, the other, a gummed, rusted up and a pitted mess. Took quite a bit of time breaking bolts free, and cleaning and polishing, but its now back together and smooth as silk. As before, I think you need 4 hands to put the front bumper guard back on.
Wish you lived in my neck of the woods, I would like to learn some stuff (Not The Hard Way)….