Solid Lifter Conv Kit?

Top End (cylinders pushrods etc.)
58flh
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Re: Solid Lifter Conv Kit?

#31

Post by 58flh »

I have always run solids in my 58!---24+yrs. now!--I change my oil every 2000 miles as it is a daily riden bike! CORK seals have never done me wrong!--I have seen the blue & black ones leak within a day of useage! -I dont have to ,but I put new corks in every 2yrs.! & the SOLIDS have been great!--(very important to get a FEEL for BOTH STEEL & ALUM. PUSHRODS!). THAT is KEY!---My steels have no up & down movement, but I can spin them with a flick of my finger!--- I have stopped using ALUM along time ago!--COLONY MAKE GARBAGE P-RODS!.---THE ADJs. are olny inserted into the rod 9/16s!--So is the rockerarm ball!. NOW this is the parts that have most stress put on them!--I would think you should insert the hardened ADJs. Atleast a inch & a half!--that goes for both ends!---I have half a shoebox of ADJ. & BALL-TOPS all from ALUM. COLONY rods!--I put them in steel rods! & all is fine!--As for ADJ. ALUM. P-rods, YOU want them TIGHT so when the rod & your fingers are clean of oil ,you should just be able to turn them with some grunt!. When the motor is up to temp. they spin freely as should be!. IF you do it enuff you can tell when a ADJ. is needed!--I can pickoff somebody elses bike (PAN) 20 feet away if it needs ADJ.-(as long as the motor is hot).----RICHIE--(LOVE SOLIDS) 8)
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Re: Solid Lifter Conv Kit?

#32

Post by Chobber69 »

58flh - this thread is definitely a keeper; never to dated, to get feedback :-)
58flh
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Re: Solid Lifter Conv Kit?

#33

Post by 58flh »

INDIANNUT!--I ran solids in my cage also!--it was a 66SS stroker ,it endes-up at 515CI. Crane cam .588, .610 lift. I broke it in with the mild grind!---To me it was mild -It still ran 11.20s on street rubber-After I put a 1000 miles on it-I pulled the cam lifters & checked as I pulled them ALL were RIGHT where I left them!. .012 for intakes & .015 for ex. Any way I gave this cam to a buddy who had a camaro wuth a 396 in it. He ran that cam for years!-NO TROUBLES!-I changed to a Crane R2_80,Roller Cam!. Lift was .740 in.-& .750 ex. Pistons were lowererd to 7to 1 comp. & I ran a GMC-671 huffer onit. I ran the blower at crank-speed for 500 miles to let the new rings seat. After I got a roadside revere kit from BDS, & that allowed the blower to be driven 10% under crank-speed, & if you were grudge matching a rival---It took all of 15min to overdrive the huffer to 35% faster then crankspeed!--I learned very fast to screw the rims to the tires 25,3/4 inch screws on eachside both rear wheels for a total of 100 screws into the beads of the tires!. The engine was dynoed 1-time using diff. jets I ran 2 holly 660 center squirters. The 750DBL.-pumpers were just to much for street use!--You had to rev the hell out of it at every light so the plugs wouldnt foulout. So the 660s were #1 as this was a grudge car street-driven. With the 660s the best HP output i got at 35% overdriven was 960 HP at the rear-tires at 6800RPM, At 10% under I got 562HP at 6200RPM. Tourque was 590ft.lbs. at 5000RPM at 10% under. Tourque at 35% over was 668ft.lbs. at 4700rpm.--This didnt last long as every 3rd run NEW SPRINGS & KEEPERS were needed to keep HP levels up!-& that was (900 a pop) in 1980!--So I had my fun with my first artificially aspirated motor!-Put together by myself. The car ran 9.90 index no problems!-I would have to let off & slow her up to run dial-in. My quickest pass ever was 9.48!. Then the Blower came off & I ran a single Dominater, I was able to get a 9.90 index for pro-stock class But I was REALLY REVING the HELL out of it!--And all this time the cam I used to break-in the stroker, was running in that Camaro for another 3yrs. till he sold it!-& it ran GREAT!--That being said todays cars wont get out of the county if you run a solid cam in them!--Metals have changed & theres no beef where the BEEFING-UP is needed!--its all about saving weight & gas milage!---This Country use to build GOOD CARS! BUT as of 1973 when the EPA stepped in & said no more lead lower octane gas,& pollution control devices--That was the END of AMERICAN CARS!.--NOW as far as our PANS are concerned SOLIDS are wonderful in them motors!--YES I do check my lash every time I change my oil!--& with HYD. you dont have to!, But I like to tinker & enjoy the performance I get from my solids. I think nobody is wrong or right ,its just preference!--And GUYS I DO APOLOGIZE for the long story!, Just felt like sharing some of my EXP. with cams & HP!---STAY UPRIGHT----RICHIE,--(58flh). 8)
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Re: Solid Lifter Conv Kit?

#34

Post by panheadron »

Ok. Solid lifter conversion kits. Some kits have 4 small springs for the inserts. I believe they are to take up any slack, thus cushioning the valve train. Are the springs a good idea? Do they break after some time since they are constantly getting coil bound. Some members suggested tossing them in the trash. What do you think? Hopefully we get many opinions on this. Please reply Thanks!
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Re: Solid Lifter Conv Kit?

#35

Post by RUBONE »

The springs act as buffers. They are never "coilbound". They are redundant and if the pushrods are correctly adjusted do virtually nothing. Use them or not it doesn't matter.
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Re: Solid Lifter Conv Kit?

#36

Post by Cotten »

The problem with the springs, Folks,..

...Is that they confuse many fellows when adjusting, by adding false "drag", often un-evenly, depending upon the variable quality of contact between the poorly made 'slugs', adjustors, and the lifter bores themselves.

Since they invariably come with aluminum pushrods, which must by nature be set tighter, this can lead to premature failure. The slug must be bottomed out upon the lifter, making the spring just useless inertia.

....Cotten
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Re: Solid Lifter Conv Kit?

#37

Post by Cotten »

More warnings, Folks,...

Here are examples of common slugs that show the poor quality by their wear patches:
SLUGWEAR.jpg
Two have very little, yet different contact, giving different "feel".
Note third from left only contacted upon the sharp outside edge, where it would certainly "bite".

Bottom line is that gimmicky assemblies are to be avoided.
When stock steel hydraulic rods are handy, COLONY's economical "slugs" (8204-4) work far better, but will never be as gentle upon the valvetrain as hydraulics.
When solids are necessary for a performance cam, S&S quality, at least, is prudent.

....Cotten
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1995FLSTC
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Re: Solid Lifter Conv Kit?

#38

Post by 1995FLSTC »

Great post and thank you all. Very helpful..
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