60 FL with SS Oil Pump: Oil leaking UPDATE

[03Roadking]

Hello to all it has been quite some time.
I had a problem like this many years ago with my 62 pan. I was on the phone with S&S a few times. I have the old style horseshoe oil bag with three fitting and the same pump (but older model) I have my supply line going from the back lower right side of the tank to number 4 the return line goes from number 1 to the inside fitting on the tank and the outside top fitting on the tank goes to the engine breather. The other thing I see is the screw on your oiler it seems to be flush with the body there should be a needle screw in there with a lock nut if you have anything else it will allow oil to get into passage ways that it shouldn't. Allowing oil to seep into the belly after sitting for a while. Mine would collect about a quart after sitting for a week. I'm no expert for sure but this solved my problem with pumping oil. I would also suggest you call S&S to confirm what I'm posting here. But I've been running this set up for the last 8 years

[03Roadking]

Hello Again
I think you should check the pump it's self I went to the S&S web site, Below are the installation instructions One of the first thing it says is to identify the pump and the cover to make sure you have the right ones If you didn't do the installation You might have the right cover but the wrong pump.. the first pictures show a pump for 36-72 and 65 -69 The cover fits both pumps but the passage ways are different.
It also says pumps made after 2000 have part numbers on the bottom. It says you can get a mirror under it to see, I checked mine apparently mine was made before they started numbering them But maybe yours will give you at least the knowledge you have the right pump and cover. If there are no numbers I would pull the cover off and compare the pictures of the two pumps to yours. If they check out then there is the outside chance it was drilled wrong which I hope not. Also I would check the flat screw in the side of your pump for which S&S made this warning.
WARNING
Chain oiler adjusting screw has tapered end and must be used. Substituting standard machine screw for tapered screw will result in large
oil loss out breather. Oil may contact rear brake and tire, resulting in possible loss of control of motorcycle and injury to rider and others.
3. Turn screw out 1⁄2 turn and tighten locknut against brass washer and body.
NOTE - After engine has been run, it may be necessary to adjust screw to achieve desired oil flow to primary chain. Final screw setting is usually closer to
fully closed position.
https://www.sscycle.com/docs/default-so ... f?sfvrsn=4
Keep posting what you find out
03 RK

[docmel]

3RK

I beleive we might be getting somewhere. Based upon your comment about the primary oil adjusting screw, I thought I would take look (even though its screwed all the way in)

First, look at my attached picture. This is a picture of an SS primary oil screw adjusting kit.

531228k.jpg

When I removed my screw, I found out all I had was the part you see in my pic at the 3 o-clock position!
As you can see, this screw is very short, only about a 1/4" long: So there is no way the oil to the primary breather can be adjusted (closed)?

I am thinking I need the parts at the 12, 6 and 9 o'clock position in order to close the oil flow to the primary?

If thats the case, what in the hell is the screw at the 3 o'clock position used for?

[03Roadking]

Yup that was the same screw I took out of mine when I bought my bike and oil was running out every time I would start it. If there are no numbers on the unit I would really pull the cover off and compare the pump to the pictures showing the different pumps just to be sure. It's only a 2 buck gasket and it would erase any doubt's Another thing S&S told me was to make sure the check balls are seated correctly and there is no debris, dirt or old gasket material allowing the ball not to seat and close off oil passage ways when it's NOT running. Figure the tank feeds by gravity if the check balls are not working and the needle valve is not in place oil is running into the engine almost as fast as you are pouring it in. You said earlier it was pumping it out Could it be by the time you pour the oil in and the time it takes you to start it half of the oil is already ran into the belly and the scavenger pump is just doing it's job and pukes it back out. let me know what you find out
03RK

[docmel]

I took a look about 3-4 weeks ago about looking for the numbers on the bottom of the pump: No joy there, so I must be running an older SS model oil pump as well.

I did check the oil check ball and screen, one of the first things that I did. I've experienced some oil sumping before, in both pans and shovels that I have owned, but this situation isn't simple sumping resulting from a week or so of the engine sitting. This is 4 qts of oil running out of the pri oil breather tube in less than 5 minutes.

If I fill the oil bag and I crank it right up, there goes the oil in less than 5 minutes. I dont beleive this is a gravity feed issue alone

I got a hold of a guy near town today that just ordered a new needle screw for me. I should have the results in a few days from now

I will check the pump model closer as you mentioned just in case, but I'll wait to see if the new needle screw will work first

[03Roadking]

i think you should get another gasket while your waiting for the needle screw to come in Just have to ask. I know I'm beating a dead horse But
You had the engine gone thru They put the pump on and you never started it since then. It has never run without pumping oil out. if so Then I would pull the cam chest cover and the oil pump. Make sure the scavenger tube is timed right and the case was drilled right and you have the correct pump
This kind of stuff gets me going it's like my tranny I had a lose stud in a moment of laziness I took it down to a guy who was supposed to know his stuff I get the thing back and three days after I install it the stud starts leaking I call the guy His reply Oh just pull the stud and put white plumbers tape on it that will stop WTF I could have done that
Let us know when you find anything else out
03RK

[docmel]

SOLUTION FOUND: Look at my attached pic on my July 14th post above: Took out the pri oiler adj screw as seen at the 3 oclock. Replaced it with the screw at 12 oclock.

No more oil out or pri breather. So Why use the 3 oclock screw at all?

[Bigincher]

Forgot the "why" - Glad to know your issue is resolved and now you can enjoy the ride!

[03Roadking]

Read your post that's great. I don't know why that screw (short one) is even there I never bothered to call back to ask why. It is the same screw that was causing my problem also. But you got it and that's all that matters Enjoy