panhead rocker clutch pedal ?

[Paysonpan]

Are there different big twin rocker pedals?
I ask because I am having fitment issues on my mutt 55 Pan that I assembled from mostly stock HD parts.
Inner primary is paucho after market and lines up ok with OEM 55 and later outer primary. Just had to chase threads.
Mounting bracket for rocker is stock oem HD as is hardware. I have tried 2 brackets from my stash and both have same issue. Neither is bent
The only pedal I had around was a 45 pedal which when installed hit on front of primary when clutch was disengaged.. Since it was pretty beat up I cut heel portion made a 1/2" right angle spacer and welded it back together. Clearance issue solved but looks shitty
I have been looking for a big twin pedal on eBay that was affordable and not beat to hell just purchased one for the sum of $100. Came today and it also hits on the primary. I tried an earlier OEM outer primary and have the same issue. In looking at the knowledge base spare parts section I found a pedal like the one I just purchased which states it is for 65 to 78 foot clutch.Pedal looks like a standard pedal with a small threaded stud about 1/4" diameter on the end of the shaft which goes through the bracket. Have no clue what it is for but the pedal pictured has same.Perhaps this pedal is made for an aluminum primary with according clearance ?
Is there a specific year pedal I should be looking for or do you guys feel I have something else wrong
Thanks

[RUBONE]

There are several types of BT rocker pedals. And unless you have an early mounting bracket there is no way a 45 pedal could have fit the mount. A picture of what you have would help. Sorry to hear you are already cutting up OEM parts. Buying stuff based on eBay descriptions is an exercise in futility if you do not know the differences without needing the sellers description.

[Paysonpan]

Rubone
Thank you for the prompt reply.I appreciate your help and knowledge
The pedal I cut was worn to almost paper thin thickness on heel and toe portion so I did not feel bad cutting.
I will do my best to figure out how to post a photo tomorrow, In the mean time are there any measurements I can take of my mounting bracket that might help identify the year of bracket?
Yes you are so right about buying off of eBay unless you know exactly what you are looking at.
I am sure i just blew 100$ on this pedal

[RUBONE]

Palmer's 2nd Edition has all the variations shown. If you don't have a copy of it you can spend far more than the cost of it spinning your wheels experimenting.
Even though the repop inner bolts to the outer it does not mean that the overall depth of the assembly is the same as stock.
There is an available spacer that went between the frame and clutch for E-start bikes. Perhaps look into it or fabricate a spacer. It moves the entire assembly out, not just the pedal. And make sure your mounting isn't bent, many are.

[Bigincher]

I have seen this issue before through my work helping Wasco restore frames. It is one of the points I routinely check now.
Here's what happens- the mounting face on the end of the front motor mount, where the foot control bracket/ jiffy stand bolt up- becomes bent, worn, or otherwise out of correct plane. (Robbie mentioned this.) Many things cause this, usually the casting is bent. Yes, cast steel bends. The effect is the Interference of the rocker clutch pedal to primary chaincase, or on foot shift models the shift arm will hit the front cylinder.
There's a simple check for this on a bare frame; when I long straightedge is placed firmly against the machined mounting face on the end of the motor mount casting, a measurement is taken to the center of the left rear transmission mount plate hole in the boss on the frame. (Read again for clarity.)
That dimension on all knuckle and pan frames should be 3-1/4".
I've seen them vary all over the place, almost always narrower than spec, sometimes over an inch!
On a bare frame under restoration, the repair is routine, using proper fixtures and techniques. On a nearly completed motorcycle, another story. Use of carefully crafted shims, wedeges, or tapers may be considered, using sound fabrication practices.
However, first you should try to determine if this is the problem. You may want to remove the primary drive and inner chaincase to allow a better opportunity for accuracy. Using some math you can measure from the straightedge to the transmission mount plate, and calculate to the mount hole from there.
Doing this will either confirm or eliminate a bent casting as the culprit.
I hope I explained it clearly enough to make sense. Any other questions, just ask.

[Paysonpan]

Rubone and Bigincher
Thanks for the advice. Good point about depth of inner possibly not being correct.
It never occurred to me that the mounting face could be bent Next step will be to check alignment as per Big inches advice. Making a spacer would solve my issue if mounting face is not bent or distorted too much.
I have palmers first addition and it has proved its value many time over,I will purchase a copy of 2nd addition as I did not realize their were that many differences between 1 and 2.
Much thanks to both of you for your assistance
This has been a long project using a bunch of mis matched parts but I am on a tight budget and have had to use what I could scrounge .This site has been invaluable through out the process.