The clutch on my '55 FL was grabbing just a little. I took it apart and cleaned the plates. When I got it apart I noticed a slight movement in the clutch basket. Pulled the clutch basket off to the bearing retainer. Everything looked good. Took the retainer off and cleaned it and the roller bearings. Put fresh grease on it and placed all of the parts on and still had the movement.
The bike has a BDL 1 1/2 belt setup. So my question is would this be an indication of worn roller bearings? Or should I be looking at the basket it self. what are your thoughts.
-Carl
New clutch issue on the '55 FL
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Re: New clutch issue on the '55 FL
Richie gave us a tip a while back to drill the finger holes on the clutch plate 1/64" larger of stock size. (Stock hole is 0.375") 1/64" oversize will take it to 0.390" (or 25/64"). I did that, and also made sure to de-burr everything smooth with a de-burring knife.
Make sure everything slides with no drag whatsoever.
Make sure everything slides with no drag whatsoever.
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Re: New clutch issue on the '55 FL
Drilling the clutch discs will have no effect on the issue described, which is clutch hub wobble.
It seems to me that the hub is not fully seating on taper of the trans main shaft. That could be caused by the half-moon key improperly positioned in its slot. Or possibly wrong size key. I would use black dry eraser marker, cover the shaft thoroughly with the marker, then put the hub on without the key. Remove the hub, examine the shaft to determine the extent of contact. Then I would do it again with the key installed and compare. This should help determine if the key is the issue. My bet is the key is improperly positioned, or a few thousandths too tall. If the latter, careful filing while in a vice will do the trick.
PS: Drilling the discs is a solution for certain conditions, but in all my years on all my bikes with that style clutch, I've never had to do it.
It seems to me that the hub is not fully seating on taper of the trans main shaft. That could be caused by the half-moon key improperly positioned in its slot. Or possibly wrong size key. I would use black dry eraser marker, cover the shaft thoroughly with the marker, then put the hub on without the key. Remove the hub, examine the shaft to determine the extent of contact. Then I would do it again with the key installed and compare. This should help determine if the key is the issue. My bet is the key is improperly positioned, or a few thousandths too tall. If the latter, careful filing while in a vice will do the trick.
PS: Drilling the discs is a solution for certain conditions, but in all my years on all my bikes with that style clutch, I've never had to do it.
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Re: New clutch issue on the '55 FL
The hub is not moving, only the clutch basket. There is a tamer on it which appears to be worn. I have ordered new bearings and a new tamer. It is possible that the tamer was not seated properly. Once they get delivered I will give you an update.
-Carl
-Carl
Bigincher wrote:Drilling the clutch discs will have no effect on the issue described, which is clutch hub wobble.
It seems to me that the hub is not fully seating on taper of the trans main shaft. That could be caused by the half-moon key improperly positioned in its slot. Or possibly wrong size key. I would use black dry eraser marker, cover the shaft thoroughly with the marker, then put the hub on without the key. Remove the hub, examine the shaft to determine the extent of contact. Then I would do it again with the key installed and compare. This should help determine if the key is the issue. My bet is the key is improperly positioned, or a few thousandths too tall. If the latter, careful filing while in a vice will do the trick.
PS: Drilling the discs is a solution for certain conditions, but in all my years on all my bikes with that style clutch, I've never had to do it.
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Re: New clutch issue on the '55 FL
The design of a stock clutch and hub assembly dictates that hub movement is needed in order to function correctly. When the clutch is disengaged it need to float since it has a friction plate on both sides, the hub and the disc, so efforts to remove that float will only succeed in creating a constant drag situation in use. Tamers are crap and belong in the trash. Correct belt or chain alignment negates any possible function they have.
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Re: New clutch issue on the '55 FL
While I still have this apart, what is the best way to determine is the pulleys are aligned? I have not yet looked in the manual to see if it is there.
-Carl
-Carl
RUBONE wrote:The design of a stock clutch and hub assembly dictates that hub movement is needed in order to function correctly. When the clutch is disengaged it need to float since it has a friction plate on both sides, the hub and the disc, so efforts to remove that float will only succeed in creating a constant drag situation in use. Tamers are crap and belong in the trash. Correct belt or chain alignment negates any possible function they have.
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Re: New clutch issue on the '55 FL
I'm not Robbie, but I'll just say-- use a straightedge of the appropriate length to check alignment, or do what I do- just run the motor in neutral with the outer primary cover off, and watch where the belt tracks on the motor sprocket. (Technically they are called "belt sprockets", not pulleys) The belt should track in or near the center of the sprocket, and should not run against the shoulder on the sprocket. When it runs against the shoulder, it will wear out the edge of the belt, causing it to fray, and eventually fail.1955fle wrote:While I still have this apart, what is the best way to determine is the pulleys are aligned? I have not yet looked in the manual to see if it is there.
-Carl
If adjustment is necessary, you can loosen the 5 transmission mount nuts, and gain some movement there, and re-tighten while holding in the correct position. And of course, periodically check those trans mount nuts for tightness.