Cam choice +

[grottorian]

Description: I'm thinking of changing my cam - has anyone tried the Andrews F grind?

Post by grottorian on Apr 4, 2006, 10:06pm

I'm thinking of changing my cam - has anyone tried the Andrews F grind? The motor is big bore 69 Shovel with STD panheads - 80" T&O wheels. I'm running the B grind now & having problems with the valve jumping up too high & smashing the seal. The lifters & pushrods are Jims Powerglides - Supposed to be able to run Solid or Hydro cam. Andrews told me to use 20w50 oil instead of 50w. - Maybe that's part of the prob. I'm also considering going with less cam like the F or maybe the BH ?

Post by Mbskeam on Apr 5, 2006, 6:26am

or set the heads up to take the lift, you can cut the guides down or get diff retainers.

mbskeam

Post by bibs on Apr 11, 2006, 5:03am

I'd go with an "a" grind or possibly a "b".I run an "a" in my 74" pan and she hauls my 250 lb arse with out a problem...easy starting and a drop in cam just like the "b".....the "a" wont cost you quite as much low end loss as would the "b"......but the "b" will give ya a little more mid range power,you'll notice a difference with this cam!!
I guess it depends on how ya ride!! :

Post by sleeper on Apr 11, 2006, 6:58am

grottorian-

W/your "STD pan-heads" they should easily clear your "A" grind. ("A"=sweet cam)
STD's (pan/shov) are set to clear .550 lift, (w/no mods). More than plenty of clearance !!!
An "A" in a pan has .470 lift, that leaves +.080 clearance
on paper...
Possibility that the 50 wt. oil IS causing your "Jim's Powerglides" to "Pump-Up, & hit".
I'd switch to 20-50 oil as suggested. & re-test !!!
Even the STD "Stage I" heads have 150 psi springs..
They 'should' be OK, depending how old they are ?
Springs get weak, & can float/hit, higher rpm's (first)

Yea, the "F" grind, IMO (a disappointment)
TOO mild.
http://www.stddevelopment.com/HEADS03.HTML

Post by fourthgear on Apr 12, 2006, 1:35pm

I know this may be a dumb statement but , wouldn't the oil be thicker at first start up and would pump the lifters up to high any how ? If thats what was causing the seal damage. Can those JIM's type lifters be over adj. ?

Post by sleeper on Apr 12, 2006, 7:36pm

fourthgear-
Yes, (of course) 50wt would be the thickest during initial start-up. Might be when this happens ? If that's it ?

Post by grottorian on Apr 12, 2006, 11:05pm

I switched to the 20w50 oil. It's running real good - just the front pipe smoking - I guess the valve hit at one time - maybe cause th thick oil .... & I'll have to fix that - I never revved it too high. I reckon the B cam in it is good - but I might consider the A later, to give me more low end..

Post by sleeper on Apr 13, 2006, 5:27am

grottorian-

I thought sure I read you were using an "A" Ooops! :-[
(my mistake)..
The "B" has a higher lift in Pans of .507
Glad the 20-50 is helping.

Post by fourthgear on Apr 14, 2006, 1:34pm

Now you can go to 20/50 synthetic oil. If you haven't already.

Post by PanPal on Apr 19, 2006, 5:39pm

A lot of A and B cam info. How does a J grind work in a fairly stock 74" motor?Re: Cam choice +
Post by grottorian on Apr 20, 2006, 3:55am
I don't know about the J, but - the F cam is supposed to be same as A (470 lift) but with timing retarded for better performance with low octane fuel.

Post by sleeper on Apr 20, 2006, 5:14am

The "F" runs like the timing is retarded. Not much help..
"J" is a mild step above stock..FWIW

[58flh]

I can attest to the J, #1 & A cams!---The J is a nice cam in a stock 74 motor Has .425 lift in a pan & starts easyier then a FLH cam-(kick-wise)--I guess due to the slight diff. in duration!-Runs good in all RPM range!-GOOD ALL around everyday runner cam!--& its easy on the valvetrain.--The #1 Is Real nice in a 74!--The bottom is instantly evident!--Real nice PULL!-I would say threw the whole RPM range!--It worked nice with 8.5 slugs in her!--Starting is easy both cams are 1-kick & gone!--The Idle is also smooth ,you dont need 1100Rpm!---The A has always worked good in pans, but the better flow of shovels or STD heads is a great + to it! ,Also if you go over .450 lift in a pan you should check for clearence issues!,The A needed front clearence on the idler & the web on the inside of case needs to be dremmeled some!-(.020 is plenty for both clearences!).Also on any cam change always use fresh springs-(the S&S are clearenced already on the retainers for .060 & have good seat pressure & no binding worries!)--All these cams were installed using a degreewheel as all cams should be!-You would be surprised that the A if I told you the A was 2-teeth off!---This dont mean the bike wont run if you install cam line to line!--BUT why not get your $$$ worth out of it & squeeze all it can give you!. Some shops charge extra for this service!- This is commom practice with us & no extra $$ involved!--It should be done as part of an installation!--MOST OF ALL!!!--DO NOT forget lifters!--Now is when you change-out the rollers so all those needles dont blast you apart!---Also all the new cams that you purchase are set-up for the 58-up needle-bering!--To use this bering you have to turn .002 off the cams case end!--I took the bering out & put a Bronze bushing in & bored to spec!-(To me the Needle or Torrington style bering is just another grenade in the motor!-The choice is yours!--Hope this helps a few guys wondering about these grinds!--There are a few more I can talk about from exp. but I rambled enuff for now --GOOD-LUCK--RICHIE

[George Greer]

Can you guys that have one of the Andrews "J" cams verify the the OD of both ends of the cam shaft that rides in the bearings?

Cam cover, and engine size.

I understand that the engine side is .002" larger in OD than the cam cover side.

I intend to run one of these cams in my engine, and I also intend to use a bronze bushing instead of the needle bearings.

Just wan to know exactly what size to ream the bushings.

Thanks.

George