circuit breaker drive gear

Gear Case (cams, idlers, cam cover)
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Tejaspan
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circuit breaker drive gear

#1

Post by Tejaspan »

Here's what lead me to this question. The bike's a 48 e model. Bike started back firing and popping one day all of a sudden. Tracked it down to the circuit breaker drive gear c clip. Opened the cover and found that the clip for the cb gear missing along with the generator gear clip. Without a clip the end play for the cb gear was .067. Installed a clip and the clearance is .020. One of the service manuals I have for this calls for an end play limit of .007-.009. The only thickness of shims I could find were .050-.064. Because of the amount of clearance those sizes won't work. Put the bike back together and it fired up. Ran good first couple of times. Started acting like it was out of time again. Resigned to put a new gear in. Was wondering if the gear would wear that much on the end play to make that much difference. I would think that it wouldn't since the load is on the gear spinning, but I've been wrong before, just ask my wife. Also the shims thickness being those sizes are they intended to be used without the c clip? Seems like the only way they would work.

Just trying to put 2 and 2 together and make sense of it. Was hoping someone might have some experience or knowledge about this.
Cotten
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Re: circuit breaker drive gear

#2

Post by Cotten »

Jim!

Are you referring to the gear within the gearcase, or the gear on the bottom of the circuitbreaker shaft itself?

Real circuitbreakers were pinned.

If you are referring to the gear within the gearcase, the circlip should not determine endplay at all.
(Late models dispensed with them entirely.)

....Cotten
Tejaspan
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Re: circuit breaker drive gear

#3

Post by Tejaspan »

Thanks for the reply Cotten. I'm refering to the gear in the gearcase. The gear that's driven off the cam with the helical gear to drive the circuit breaker. The circlip doesn't really determine the clearance. It's just the clearance that I have between the gear and bushing in the case when the gear is pushed all the way out to the cam cover. I'm wondering if that .020 clearance is enough to cause the timing to be off. I wouldn't think it would be but I don't know. I'm sure the .067 was enough to cause it. I need to pull the tappet block and see if the circlip is off and then possibly see what may be causing it to be forcing it off.
NightShift
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Re: circuit breaker drive gear

#4

Post by NightShift »

Tejaspan wrote:I'm wondering if that .020 clearance is enough to cause the timing to be off. I wouldn't think it would be but I don't know. I'm sure the .067 was enough to cause it. .
Dear Jim,
Yes Sir, Its happened to me and it seemed awfull sudden. I was retiming at every bar. Seemed fine while I was on the hammer though.

A fat spacer fixed it and there wasnt a clip because is was a late model Pan.

Dont feel all alone,
Tejaspan
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Re: circuit breaker drive gear

#5

Post by Tejaspan »

I'm wondering if you can use a shim with the early model style and just eliminate the circlip. Anyone have any experience with that?
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Re: circuit breaker drive gear

#6

Post by NightShift »

Dear Everybody,
That C clip is supposed to go inside a counterbore so the spacer rubs on the cam cover. If the clip rubs the spacer its bad. The clip is useless unless you like to walk around the shop carrying a motor with the cam cover off.
IDLRCLIP.jpg
Hope this helps,
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Mickey Yak
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Re: circuit breaker drive gear

#7

Post by Mickey Yak »

Gents
I have been having one hell of a time getting my 50 Pan started. Last year it was a cold 2 Kicker but that faded away. Most recently, I have to turn the throttle while kicking it to get it to start. The auxiliary fuel pump is squirting when the throttle is turned. Could it be drifting timing? Can timing lash be checked at the Circuit breaker or do I have to pull he valve cover? Will timeing drift be seen with a timeing light?
As Usual Thanks
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Re: circuit breaker drive gear

#8

Post by steve_wood »

Two questions:

- What type of carb

- Have you checked for vacuum leaks
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Re: circuit breaker drive gear

#9

Post by PanPal »

What steve said and see how much your point gap changes when you wiggle the top of the circuit breaker. I've seen several that are loose and it starts better with a consistant correct gap. You will need to make sure the C lip holding the base on is in the correct position when checking it.
Mickey Yak
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Re: circuit breaker drive gear

#10

Post by Mickey Yak »

No vacume leaks checked with the air and soap, no bubbles.
Running a S&S Super E Pump was rebuilt. I am wondering if those blue O rings cannmake a peoblem? Changed point system to a 2000 easyn start system.
What do you think?
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Re: circuit breaker drive gear

#11

Post by john HD »

mikey,

when ever my pan gets kranky about starting i do the easy stuff first.

fully charged battery

new spark plugs

john
Tejaspan
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Re: circuit breaker drive gear

#12

Post by Tejaspan »

Mikey, Mine was the same way last year. 1,2 kick cold. Those blue o-rings do make a difference. One time when I was working on mine when I reassembled I left it off. Ran terrible when I got it to run. I'm going to measure the gap on mine and shim this weekend. That should solve my problem.
panflat4865hd
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Re: circuit breaker drive gear

#13

Post by panflat4865hd »

:roll: the c clip can be threw out,i set my end play at.003-.006. a valve spring shim for evo and twin cam will work for shimming, put at outer end of shaft.they only come in .015,.030,.060 so you are limited.i prefer to have my machinist machine one the correct lenght and harden it with a torch,as the originals are hard.a good machinist can tell ya how to harden it.if it ends up a fuzz to long a belt sander can shorten it. also make sure your dist. is running true with no resistance as this will add thrust pressure on gear.hope this helps dan
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Re: circuit breaker drive gear

#14

Post by 58flh »

I have used spring spacers also!--It worked great for me!--I also ran my clearence a smidge tighter then manual spec.!--.004-I have not had any problems as its enuff clearence for play & oil to get in for shart lube!.-Since I did this I have put 14000+ on her & no (timing travel or DWELL DRIFT) to report! However Do not go tighter then this!--(.005-.008)-will run good to! Albeit Go with the smaller #!. Remember Timing is most IMPORTANT on a TWIN with 1 THROW!. Always degree your cam when changing & check for clearences!--IF running OEM heads An A grind is great,,If you can find the old sifton 468 or similar This is a GREAT CAM! EVEN the newer COBRA is great!--BUT WHO is making them? Also pinion gear is important ,If you change the bumpstick PIN-MEASURE for correct pinion size or you can press old gear off & press it on new cam!-(more ways to skin a cat!--BUT A DEGREE-WHEEL makes ALOT of DIFFERENCE!--You can gain 4 -5 HP by just degreeing a stock FLH cam!---GOOD LUCK & WOT----RICHIE 8)
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