Timing inspection hole

Bottom End (crankcases and crankshaft)
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jay
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Timing inspection hole

#1

Post by jay »

In my shop manual it says when setting the timing to remove the timing inspection hole plug on the left side of the crankcase. Where exactly is the plug located on the crankcase. I think I found it but I am note sure. Thanks again for all the help.
Guest

#2

Post by Guest »

Big hex bolt, right below the serial number plate.
jay
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#3

Post by jay »

Is this the bolt below the rear cylinder mounting bolt. Thats the one I thought it was.
Guest

#4

Post by Guest »

It's right under the serial number boss, centered beetween the cylinders, on the left side, usually a hex shaped plug, although some have been changed to an allen,remove in a counter clockwise manner, re-install in a clockwise manner.
hjans
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#5

Post by hjans »

see picture
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jay
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#6

Post by jay »

Thanks guys for everything, today I adjusted my timing using a home made light and fired it up and actually went for a ride. What would you guys think my cylinder and exhaust pipe temp should be, my pipes really blued however they are straight drag pipes with no covers on them. I took readings with my infrared thermometer, has any one ever done this.
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#7

Post by mbskeam »

if the ign is retarded it will blue pipes also, as will runnin lean

mbskeam
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#8

Post by FlatHeadSix »

They're fun when they run, aren't they Jay?

Listen to mbskeam, give it as much advance as it will take while you're going down the road, just short of pinging or knocking. You can bump it a few degrees at a time until you find the right spot. I think it has been posted before, if you have an auto advance timer you have to rotate it against the spring tension to the full advance position when setting the timing. If you have a manual advance just twist the grip until the timer rotates to the full advance stop and set it there. I think J&P sells a locking device to hold the auto advance timers in the full advance position.

And keep the high speed mixture a little fat.

Here is an old timer's trick I learned back in the 60's, when everyone was still smoking. Put a piece of clean cigarette paper between the closed points, set the timing mark in the window with the front cylinder on compression stroke, rotate the timer in the advance direction (counter-clockwise or toward the centerline of the bike) until the points just barely open enough to release the cigarette paper. lock it down there and you're golden! I have manual advance on all the bikes except the servi and I have them set so that when you twist the left grip to the full advance position they will just release the paper when cranked all the way back, timing mark on the flywheel just showing up in the window (right side of timing inspection hole).

does any of that make sense or have I had too many beers tonight?

mike
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#9

Post by jay »

Thanks guys. This may sound stupid, but what is the best way to tell if I am running lean. I do not have a tach so I am not sure of my rpm's and I am not used to a carb. Is there any way with out any special tools to tell my fuel/air ratio.
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#10

Post by 51Hog »

Mike, that is a great tidbit of info. Makes perfect sense. Never heard that before. Just need to find that old paper---
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#11

Post by FlatHeadSix »

Jay,

Idle mixture setting is easy, you can hear it and smell it. High speed mixture setting is a little more difficult to "read". To do it right you need the special tools, like an exhaust gas analyzer, the anal probe stuck up the tailpipe hooked to a computer.

The old timer's method is to read the plugs after an extended run at road speeds. Look at the post that 51hog posted earlier about diagnosing plugs. His plugs, after 4K miles, show a tanish white porcelain center electrode insulator and a blackish deposit on the inside of the plug body. The plugs in his picture show almost perfect conditions: the heat range of the plug is correct for his usage, the high-speed mixture is set just rich enough to leave a light black deposit inside the plug body, oil consumption of that engine is not excessive and leaving a sooty oily carbon build up, and timing is set correctly so as not to burn or erode the electrodes on the plugs. The old Clymer's manuals have a pretty good section, generic, but good, on how to "read" spark plugs.

When attempting to read plugs make sure that you pull the plugs immediately after a prolonged run at road speed. Try not to lug the bike or sit and idle very long before shutting it off and pulling the plugs.

ok, one more beer and I'm outta here for the night!, honest

mike
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