Tappet block screws loosening

Bottom End (crankcases and crankshaft)
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Kuda
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Tappet block screws loosening

#1

Post by Kuda »

Well, had my first real break-in run on the '49 this weekend, 'bout 400 miles total. It was an absolute bear to start, especially cold, but after nearly blowing my lungs and heart out of my chest I finally stumbled on the trick for a warm start: NO throttle. Zero, zip, nada. When I actually remembered not to touch the gas, one or two kicks did it every time. Still working on the cold start part, but I'm changing the S&S E to CV soon so I'm not too worried about that yet. Other than starting, it was a pretty successful run. Hard tail with a small, thin sprung solo seat (about 1" total travel on the seat) wasn't nearly as bad as I thought, handling was much better than I expected as well. Rocker clutch and jockey came quite naturally, only once did I accidently down shift instead of up shift, and I caught myself before I let the clutch out. <whew> Still got a little loosness in the front end, but otherwise I'm really quite pleased that something that I built actually runs, and runs fairly well. However...

The one big problem I've got now is the tappet block screws. I used the original style parkerized slot screws in the blocks (original blocks) with the cone shaped star washers. Cranked 'em down really good, but after it heat cycled a few times they loosened up and I lost a good 1/2 quart of oil down the right side on the way home. Tightened 'em up again and the same thing happened. Should I replace 'em with hex heads (yuck) or try some loc-tite on the stock slots? Any suggestions? Thanks,

-Kuda
'49 FL
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Re: Tappet block screws loosening

#2

Post by VPH-D »

Squirt some [small amount] brake cleaner into each screw hole and onto the screw's threads to remove oil. Apply blue loctite onto the screw threads, and tightness occasionally.
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Re: Tappet block screws loosening

#3

Post by King »

Kuda

Congrats on your first long ride. Sat before last I did mt first long haul after rebuild on an AMCA run through Virginia. Put over 10 hours on the bike in two days and it ran and started like a champ.

Before trying anything else I would put in a new set of star washers if yours are not 100%. I had the same problem a few years ago (although not as dramatic) and found the old worn out washers at fault.

Regarding starting, since I've gone with the 45 Parts Depot electronic ignition and the electronic relay (to keep the Bat up) I've had no starting problems. Cold starting with my Bendix is 4 pumps of the acel pump four kicks with throttle wide open then the hot kick at 1/4 crack of the throttle and half retard. Usually starts on the first kick. Hot starts are; full retard, one prime kick then hot, again 1 or 2 kicks to start.

Good Rides

King
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Re: Tappet block screws loosening

#4

Post by fourthgear »

Good advice on the star washers King they will make a diff.. I would still clean all threaded areas and use blue loc tight on them just to make sure . Clean and oil free contact points are crucial for loc tight and gasket surfaces for proper adhesion.
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Re: Tappet block screws loosening

#5

Post by Kuda »

Thanks all,

I'll give it a shot with the blue. Star washers, as well as screws, are new. And first time I installed the blocks, the threads were clean and dry, but I didn't use any loc-tite. Since I have to pull the carb, carb support bracket, and mag to get to the rear block screws, occasionally re-tightening isn't an appealing option...

-Kuda
'49 FL (not-so-gently weeping)
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Re: Tappet block screws loosening

#6

Post by panfreak »

What about putting a bend in a screw driver?
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Re: Tappet block screws loosening

#7

Post by VPH-D »

I have an old Craftsman offset screwdriver that allows me to tighten the rear screws. It has a square body with straight blade tips set into it at a 90 degree angle. Each tip is set into the body at a different roration to allow you th flip it over and use the other side as you run out of swing room. My best description.
Maybe it was called limited access screwdriver?
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Re: Tappet block screws loosening

#8

Post by mbskeam »

Kuda......

what are ya going to do with that E when its out?...
I see a miki getting the sledge hammer in its future.......

and as you get miles on it it will start easier.
my right ankle will attest to this....LOL

locktight is your friend

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Re: Tappet block screws loosening

#9

Post by Kuda »

Mbskbeam,

I'll try the lock-tite this weekend. As for the E, I'm gonna hang on to it until I'm sure the CV is gonna work out. After that, I'll probably let it go. Since you asked first, you'll have first crack at it if you want it. Besides, it was your pressure tester that helped me figure out what was wrong with it... :-)

Oh, and I posted a couple of pics of it in the gallery if anyone's interested...

-Kuda
'49 FL
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Re: Tappet block screws loosening

#10

Post by panz4ever »

Kuda..now that you posted pics, I see why a chrome rear backing plate was out of the question. Nothing like basic black. Something Johnny Cash and Roy Orbison would definitely be proud of.
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Re: Tappet block screws loosening

#11

Post by PanPal »

Congratulations Kuda, it looks good man! The last time I saw it it was in boxes in your trunk. I was having the same problem starting my chop with the S&S E. It too will go when I get the CV on.
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Re: Tappet block screws loosening

#12

Post by Kuda »

picture:

Image
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Re: Tappet block screws loosening

#13

Post by Kuda »

Well, I spoke too soon. Pulled all the screws, cleaned up the gaskets, chased the threads, cleaned the screws, used Loktite Primer on the screws and holes, then blue loktite and new star washers. Got it all tightened back down, let it sit over night, fired it up the next day, and I've had oil drooling down the cam cover again. Rats. So I started to go back into it, when I noticed that the oil was coming from *behind* the front tappet block. Pulled the carb and mag, and lo and behold, it's the damn base gasket, NOT the tappet block. It's pouring out from the little bulge where (I think) the oil feeds through the cylinder. I know I torqued and re-torqued the cylinders down and used James paper gaskets, and it didn't leak the first time I took it out. The only thing that I changed was stretching the oil pump pressure relief spring a bit to get a little more oil pressure (helped, but not a lot). When I start it cold (60w), pressure pegs the gauge at 60lbs, but soon drops to zero and stays there. Could that initial high pressure surge cause oil to blow out of the base gasket?! Oh, and it's also slightly weeping from the right rear of the rear jug, too...

-Kuda
'49 FL (once again a garage ornament)
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Re: Tappet block screws loosening

#14

Post by 57pan »

Oct 12, 2006, 4:16pm, Kuda wrote:
Could that initial high pressure surge cause oil to blow out of the base gasket?!
I don't think the oil return passage would be under pressure unless the whole rocker cover was full of oil.
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Re: Tappet block screws loosening

#15

Post by fourthgear »

Kuda
Nice ride , looks like you got a set of 5 gals on there , more is better as far as fuel is concerned. You can have the pan covers full of oil, a common problem with Knucs and older Pans(especially if using a mod. oil pump ), I have restrict-ors in the oil passages in my cases to prevent or reduce oil piling up in there , but it still should not blow a gasket. I seal all my base gaskets with a film ( that means only enough to change the gasket from mat color to a shinny color and remove any excess ) with RTV sealant and make sure you get the edges of all holes and out side edge of gasket. Anytime you put the cyl. on you have a good chance of getting oil on the gaskets and it sometimes compromises the gaskets ability to seal properly. How were your case surfaces where they come together at the base area? If they were not completely flush (machined surface ) you will have problems with them sealing. I also rough my gasket surfaces with a small S/S wire brush, I use a circular pattern around opening to rough it up and also the cyl. base.(light sanding will work also , but I like the S/S brush because no residue is left behind to clean up or foul the surfaces.
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