1956 FL tappet screen missing

[zanny1]

Tappet screen on my 56 FL is missing. How critical is it to have the early style screen assembly? Will the later version or a shovel version fit? Anyone know where I could locate one? Thanks and happy new year to all Pan heads.

[Jack_Hester]

Very important. Eastern used to sell a complete assembly, but now only sells part of it. Check with V-Twin and J&P.

Jack

[john HD]

not critical for me, it is a hard part to find and even harder to clean properly to get consistant operation of the lifters.

i run a aux oil filter (stock) that seems to keep the oil clean enough without the screen.

if you can find one i would run with it. if not, add a filter.

john

[Jack_Hester]

Not impossible to find, though. Think about it. The 'Factory' installed a screen/filter just for the tappets. Now, this oil was supposedly filtered, before going back to the tank. So, it should be clean. Yet, they felt it important to install one just for the tappets. Must have observed a problem with some form of contamination to the tappets. It's been a part of their engine design, in some form, since. My thinking is that for good engine life, it can't be overlooked. When I build/rebuild an engine, I make sure the screen is clean or replaced with a new one, if I find defects. I see these types of screens more often than not, as old is all I build these days. However, haven't had to look for one of these in a while. The rebuilds usually have them, and I only have to clean. However, as a result of this post, I'm already looking for my own source, and will get at least a couple in stock, when I find them.

Jack

[VintageTwin]

We explained and illustrated it in Vol. 1. The screen is called a witches hat. The later style (with less pieces than the early one) V-Twin or J&P sells is (12-0159). Hold the screen up to a strong light. Like JHD said, you'll be amazed at the amount of crud that gets collected. Blow it from the outside of the screen inward first, since you'll be blowing out trash that couldn't get past the mesh.
You need a brass or copper crush washer (check valve gasket) [24994-52] as well. The washer is 18/32 (0.570") i.d. and 44/64 (0.70") o.d. and without it, oil will continually leak from under the cap.
Man .....it's good to be with mechanics that are all on the same page.
If we were talking about a modified motor, we'd be all over the place chasing problems and solutions.

[Jack_Hester]

Slightly off topic, but is Vol. II available? As well as Vol. I? A good friend's son is getting the itch from his Dad and me, as to vintage iron. If Vol. I is still available, I'll order one for him. Would like to get him a copy of Vol. II, when it is available. Sorry for getting off the subject.

Jack

[VintageTwin]

Hi Jack (something you'd never yell out in an airport),
I moved the release date ahead to March 15, 07. We've done the text basically. Only a few scattered photos to take, but that's not slowing us down at all. Stett's reading through the rest of the pre-edited chapters right now, but mostly the only things we're finding is where I started calling something one name and then change names and started calling it something else, which I dislike to do, but he's catching them. He trys to beat me on plumbing tools I refer to, but I show him reason for using things like a threaded pipe nipple as better to stay away from bearing rollers with, than just a plain end pipe. Fear not though, we've edited any of my "barnyard methods" out of it.
The Vol. 1 books you see as used aren't. Their new, and you can save a few bucks that way. Thanks for asking.

[john HD]

jack

my experiance with the filter screen is just as plumber describes, almost impossible to get clean.

my thought as to the original purpose of the tappet screen was because the original design of the oiling system did not include a filter from the factory. but instead, offered as an accessory.

my bike has been running for years without it with no problems. i could not keep the tappets happy with it in place no matter how many times/ways i cleaned it. however, before removing it i completely cleaned my oil tank and installed the accessory oil filter.

if you can find an acceptable replacement for these screens or a good stash of nos available please let me/us know! i know the little bugger is in there for a reason and would not hesitate to try installing one again!

thanks!

john

[Jack_Hester]

John -

The fact that it is 'almost impossible to get clean' means that it's stopping something that needs stopping. I'm sure a later screen/spring can be retro-fitted, though I don't remember if I've ever tried to. Will give it a try on the next Pan that I have to build. At least to see if it is an acceptable replacement.

I'm on a quest for tappet screens.

Jack

[VintageTwin]

The complete screen is (12-0159). The [24994-52] brass washer is (15-0310)

I bought just the screen. It has a plastic base fused to the screen (12-1522). You need the spring (24992-52) but not the cork washer, since the screen has that fused-plastic base. If you need a spring, the kit has a housing and a spring. I just used my housing that was already in my motor. I'll post a pic of the kit. I think J&P has the same parts numbers as Tedd for all the early parts.
I'll post it in about an hour.

[Jack_Hester]

Please do post pics, if you can. Seperated, if possible. Thanks.

Jack

[john HD]

The fact that it is 'almost impossible to get clean' means that it's stopping something that needs stopping.

jack, i agree! let me know if you find the holy grail of tappet screens!

plumber, please post that pic you have, as i recall when i was dealing with this issue i found that v twin and others either did not have them available or were of a later design.

i do recall looking at a number of these screens for shovels and figured there was no way i could make one fit as it was about twice as long. if jack can figure out how to make one of these fit as i said before i am willing to try one again.

john

also, i still have the original one and can get a pic to help identify what we are talking about.

[Cotten]

Serious considerations:

Level 1:
Damn right the screen is important. I have a 5-digit '65 where the Factory decided it wasn't necessary. Be prepared to reset your hydraulics alongside the road occasionally if you do not have one, oil filter or not.

If you run solids, then nevermind.

Level 2:
Remember that funny check ball in the early assemblies?
That was to keep the oil from draining out of the top end so fast that the hydraulics wouldn't always be starved. When the Factory went to tappet hydraulics, they figured this was no longer necessary... But how many of you still occasionally experience a 'clack' when firing up from a cold start?
Consider that to be severe hammering within your valve train.
If you run solids, then nevermind, because even at their worst they will never be that bad.


....Cotten

[john HD]

here is what i have. show me yours!

john

[VintageTwin]

Here's page 75 from our guide. The parts you see are what the kits contain. The one-piece screen and plastic base take the place of the cork. I tried to use a cork (just to check it out) and the screen was too tall. The spring goes over the screen and holds the base down against the crankcase. My motor has no housing. I have solid lifters. I always have some fine compacted dirt up near the top of the screen with every oil change. I run the external oil filter with a fiber filter element. I had to buy a paper filter first and tear it apart to use the top and bottom filter caps. The bottom cap has a ring of holes, the top cap is solid. They sandwich the fiber filter element.